Jump to content

British WW2 10 cwt GS Trailer


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 431
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

I've just acquired a Mortar trailer to tow behind the Loyd Carrier.  Its reasonably complete but has no cleats, I see mention of getting new ones cast, did that happen and are any still available?  I

Posted Images

OK Tony - I may stand to be corrected. I associate the lifting handle brackets mounted on the draw bar as being the typical of the No 1 trailer. This is the case with the Reynolds and SS made No1s for example but they have rounded mudguards which I also believed to be the shape of all No1 models regardless of manufacturer.

 

If you have the census number or contract number of your Orme Evans still legible on the data plate, I should be able to tell if it was constructed as a No1 or No2 trailer and whether therefore, by inference the brackets welded to the drawbar are original. Our Orme Evans (with angled mudguards and lifting arms integral with the tow hitch ) was made under contract S4302 a mixed contract for almost 2000 No2 GS and Mortar trailers numbered X5421421 - X5423417 .

David.

 

David, After staring at my damaged data plate for ages in varying light I think that I can make out a '2' at the end of where the contract no. should be...therefore it reads 23.........2 which should no doubt be contract 23/4302. This was printed on the plate, not stamped as with my lightweight trailer thus probably meaning that the GS 2 and mortar trailers were made for each contract and were not randomly added to contracts.

Link to post
Share on other sites
David, After staring at my damaged data plate for ages in varying light I think that I can make out a '2' at the end of where the contract no. should be...therefore it reads 23.........2 which should no doubt be contract 23/4302. This was printed on the plate, not stamped as with my lightweight trailer thus probably meaning that the GS 2 and mortar trailers were made for each contract and were not randomly added to contracts.

 

Tony - Our plate,which is very rough reads TRAILER 10-cwt 2 WHLD GS.

.?????? CONT NO 23/4302

Chassis no. W.D. Number???

OE 6622

 

What is legible on yours and have you had any further thoughts on your lifting handle bracket's originality ? By the way is it your headboard or tailboard which drops down?

 

Gordon thanks for the info. Ours is too far gone to copy I think. Has anyone a good clear one ?

Edited by David B.
Link to post
Share on other sites
I hope some of these photos showing detail on my trailer are of use.

First shows the half moon cut out on the hinge bracket.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]77550[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

I just stumbled on these on ebay that look like the same ones.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-Vintage-Metal-Large-Hinges-Door-Gate-Window-30-7-11-/300755318372

Link to post
Share on other sites
I just stumbled on these on ebay that look like the same ones.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-Vintage-Metal-Large-Hinges-Door-Gate-Window-30-7-11-/300755318372

 

In the listing, they have put ''please watch the video for a full description''. I couldn't bring myself to watch a video of some hinges................:-)

Link to post
Share on other sites
Simon - I can't see them on his website. Have you had GS trailer plates from him ? The Orme Evans steel plates rust badly and ours could do with replacing.

 

David,

 

I haven't had one yet - as I'm finding it hard to determine a manufacturer so far - hopefully other owners will begin to feed in the manufacturer/characteristics of their trailers into this thread so that some form of tabular database of information can be created.

 

I simply asked Robert if he did such plates and he sent me a photos of plates that he had already done - so presumably he has all the artwork and information required already. The brass plate was for a SSC built No1 MkII GS trailer but presumably he will just change that lettering to the appropriate initials for the manufacturer as well as the metal from which the plate is made

 

It might be worth just contacting him

 

So what is the difference between a No1 MkI GS trailer and a No1 MkII GS trailer - is it just the hitch or are there other things like pins or screws to secure the support legs - or does that simply depend on the manufacturer ? Presumably the No2 MkI GS trailer is the one with solid sides - or is it something else?

 

sk

Link to post
Share on other sites
I just stumbled on these on ebay that look like the same ones.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-Vintage-Metal-Large-Hinges-Door-Gate-Window-30-7-11-/300755318372

 

 

This should really be required watching for anyone interested in obscure,obsolete and rusty old bits of bent metal. In other words - all of us. The commentator sounds like one of those blokes at the Ideal Home Exhibition,selling gadgets for slicing beans and cutting carrots. I liked it.

Edited by David B.
Link to post
Share on other sites
David,

 

 

 

I simply asked Robert if he did such plates and he sent me a photos of plates that he had already done - so presumably he has all the artwork and information required already. The brass plate was for a SSC built No1 MkII GS trailer but presumably he will just change that lettering to the appropriate initials for the manufacturer as well as the metal from which the plate is made

 

 

sk

 

Others will know better than me but this plate sounds to be one for the 10 cwt LIGHTWEIGHT Trailer the "airborne" type. I believe they were made with the designation which included Number and Mark descriptions.

The 10 cwt GS , Mortar and Mortar Ammunition trailers were made with No 1 and No 2 designations only according to the 1948 Identification List and the 1960 Illustrated Parts List .

 

SS trailers,both Lightweight and ordinary 10 cwt types seem to have had brass plates(as did other makers) which survive better than the Orme Evans steel plates.@

 

Do any Orme Evans plates survive with anyone in an uncorroded condition,sufficiently clear and in good enough condition to have copied ?

Edited by David B.
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

scan plate0001.jpgDavid, this is what I think the plate should look like based on what I have gleaned from various sources. It needs tweaking with regard to spacings but the dimensions are the same as my damaged plate. I did a similar thing for my lightweight trailer based on information provided to me by Richard Farrant and Rob van Meel. I get the design printed onto vinyl and lay it over brass plate and then stamp numbers and letters where appropriate. they look very good and are long lasting (at least two years so far). I know it is not the steel used by OE but it is practical unless someone knows a source of steel plate of similar thickness.The only thing I do not know is if the mortar trailers were differentiated on the data plate - mine has a large rust hole in exactly that place

Link to post
Share on other sites
[ATTACH=CONFIG]77713[/ATTACH]David, this is what I think the plate should look like based on what I have gleaned from various sources. It needs tweaking with regard to spacings but the dimensions are the same as my damaged plate. I did a similar thing for my lightweight trailer based on information provided to me by Richard Farrant and Rob van Meel. I get the design printed onto vinyl and lay it over brass plate and then stamp numbers and letters where appropriate. they look very good and are long lasting (at least two years so far). I know it is not the steel used by OE but it is practical unless someone knows a source of steel plate of similar thickness.The only thing I do not know is if the mortar trailers were differentiated on the data plate - mine has a large rust hole in exactly that place

 

Morning Tony,

 

Thats a good constructive thing to do. I've put mine next to it and I can confirm only some of the wording.

 

Top Line - Only a dash between "10" and "CWT" to add. Otherwise same lettering

 

Second line - I have a rusted out hole at the beginning so I can't see the vacant square shown as white.I think there is the number "2" on a plain background however underneath the "L" of trailer in the top line.I can't see "OEC" too clearly , otherwise in agreement with you.

 

Third Line - Same as you but I think that the word "number" is written in full.

 

Anyone else with confirmation ?

Link to post
Share on other sites
Morning Tony,

 

Thats a good constructive thing to do. I've put mine next to it and I can confirm only some of the wording.

 

Top Line - Only a dash between "10" and "CWT" to add. Otherwise same lettering

 

Second line - I have a rusted out hole at the beginning so I can't see the vacant square shown as white.I think there is the number "2" on a plain background however underneath the "L" of trailer in the top line.I can't see "OEC" too clearly , otherwise in agreement with you.

 

Third Line - Same as you but I think that the word "number" is written in full.

 

Hi David, I will add a dash on the first line. On the second line the white square is natural metal with a stamped '2' in it. The third line on my plate does have No. instead of 'number' for both chassis no. and WD no.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Re Data plates: I know its not from a Mortar trailer but the Electrical Repair trailer still had its original plate in brass, but with a similar layout to yours:

 

 

Dataplate_Elec.Repair.Trailer_Dashwood&PartnersLtc (Medium).JPG

 

Also, last year on Ebay this plate was sold (for more than £30 I seem to remember), again there is a standard "look" to these plates:

 

Dataplate_No.1_10Cwt_trailer.jpg

Re vertical brackets under rear floor: Could one be to hold the convoy light and the other for the normal Lucas switch? Are there any other holes in the body that would otherwise have been to location for those parts?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good try, John, except for the fact that my plate is steel and the lettering is litho printed in reverse i.e. the lettering is bare metal and the surround would have been black as are the areas where the chassis, WD and trailer no. are stamped. Your illustration is all stamped into the brass sheet (post-war?). the electrical repair is interesting as it means that there may have been different references depending on GS No. 2 and Mortar.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a quick question. One of the support legs on my trailer restoration is stuck tight. I have managed to get the lever moving ok, and the threaded pin it is on wobbles around, but I still can't get the leg to move up or down despite heat, wd40 for two weeks etc.

If I unbolt the casting and leg from the chassis can I get inside the clamp mechanism to free it from the back?

If not, any other suggestions?

Cheers,

Sean

Link to post
Share on other sites
Just a quick question. One of the support legs on my trailer restoration is stuck tight. I have managed to get the lever moving ok, and the threaded pin it is on wobbles around, but I still can't get the leg to move up or down despite heat, wd40 for two weeks etc.

If I unbolt the casting and leg from the chassis can I get inside the clamp mechanism to free it from the back?

If not, any other suggestions?

Cheers,

Sean

 

There is actually a service tool for this, 816-h4mm3r, it's a 4pound precision instrument that if used correctly will work mate! :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tony,

 

What year is your trailer from..??

 

I have seen an advertice here in Holland some months ago with excatly the same trailers (2) for sale back then and my feelings said it was post war....also becouse of the man said they came from the Belgian Army...wich isnt a standard becouse the Belgian Army have used Brittish trailer after the war as wel.

 

Cheers,

Louis

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]77716[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77717[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77718[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77719[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77720[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77721[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77722[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77723[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77724[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77725[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77726[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77727[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77728[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77729[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77730[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77731[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77732[/ATTACH]There should be enough detail photos of my trailer as it is at the moment - as you can see it is certainly in need of some TLC. next step, wood off and to the sandblaster
Link to post
Share on other sites

can somebody tell me the length of the support legs on a GS (or Mortar) trailer - as I need a couple. Also, do the tubes for the support legs that use pins to secure them rather than screws have something that blocks off the top to stop the ingress of water - or is there just a drain hole in the centre of the bottom plate as they're open to the elements with the holes for the pins anyway?

 

Thanks

 

sk

Link to post
Share on other sites

Simon, my mortar trailer has 31" inch support legs with a disc welded into the top to stop water entry. Mine are the screw clamp version one of which is siezed up, I have now got it off the frame and found it is open at the back of the casting. It was full of rusty mud!! Am now trying to soak it apart.

image.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Aaargh, just trying to get the wheels off the mortar trailer, and the first nut I have tried to undo has sheered off! I have left the rest as most of them are in a similar condition. I have had to cut off most of the nuts and bolts on the trailer as they are badly siezed and corroded. What are my options? Will I need a new hub/s if so what sort?!

Cheers,

Sean

Link to post
Share on other sites
Aaargh, just trying to get the wheels off the mortar trailer, and the first nut I have tried to undo has sheered off! I have left the rest as most of them are in a similar condition. I have had to cut off most of the nuts and bolts on the trailer as they are badly siezed and corroded. What are my options? Will I need a new hub/s if so what sort?!

Cheers,

Sean

 

Thanks for that - helps considerably.

 

Same thing happened to me with the wheel stud - and others were bent.

 

Not the end of the world. First of all you need to separate the brake drum from the hub - there are two screws in the front of the drum. These may take some time to undo - mine needed repeated applications of Plus-gas and heat - applied from front and rear for a month or so. Once those two screws are removed, it is possible to separate hub and drum. Now you undo the nut on the back of the stud on the rear face of the hub. The stud can then be drawn out from the front of the hub. They are locked in place in the hub by the drum - so you need to remove the drum before extracting them.

 

It's then a case of taking the studs to your local friendly machine shop to get some more made. I was lucky in that I was refurbing my axle using the best bits of two axles so I was able to recover enough from the four hubs to give me two good sets.

 

Wheel nuts may also be difficult to source - in the end I had them made.

 

External lip oil seals as used in these trailers cost an arm and a leg. Once you reach that stage, I simply changed from external lip to (considerably cheaper and more readily available) internal lip - polishing up the surface of the ring that fits on the axle tube to avoid damaging the oil seal - driving the internal lip seal into the hub - rather than driving the external lip seal onto the ring that slips onto the axle tube.

 

Hope this helps

 

sk

Edited by simon king
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...