airportable Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Personally never quite sure about NOS tyres as they have a shelf life which is affected by how and where they are stored. Mike Must admit I agree with you. I have been buying these tyres over the last few years for 54HG12 as they do wear very fast. They have been stored in the cool and dark. Up till now even the worn out ones have shown no signs of perishing. Realy I should have asked if there is new copy 6.50 available. I did try a couple of 4x4 dealers, all they could sugest was 6.00 or 7.50's which I did not want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike65 Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Got 7.50x16 on my 109 by a company called Flamingo. Had never heard of them but they do have the right tread pattern (almost). Gaps between blocks appear are slightly larger. Not sure if they do 6.50x16 though. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 I had the flamingo tyres on my landy for about 4 years and was impressed with them. The only downside is the fact it feels like your front wheels are about to fall off with the viberation on the road, and i dont mean wheel balance it's the tread hammering on the road. I did'nt notice how bad it was i suppose you get used to it but when i fitted the bigger fatter insa turbos (which are even more knobbly) i was staggered how much quieter and more relaxed the whole thing felt. Must be something to do with the tread spacing or something. My mate runs on road tyres which is the way to go if your not off roading, i'ts so smooth and quiet even for a series 3:shocked: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 On the point of tyre 'noise'. Friends along the route I take for work thought I had left the job when I started running a car. They knew it was approx. 8.45 cause they heard me in the Landi. . Love that rumble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphibi boy Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 The m.p's in Bosnia at the check points, could hear if you was speeding or not, before they got the speed gun out! (we still had to obey road speeds) just from the rumble or howl from the tyres! I think they sound great, and the more aggressive the tread, the more howl they make under heavy braiding, certainly makes people look. Its a shame Goodyear and Dunlop don't re-make there military tyres, but I suppose the cost would be quite high. What's the difference between a condom and a tyre? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphibi boy Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 (edited) One was a "good night" The other a"good year". :cool2: Edited February 22, 2011 by Amphibi boy Spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 At last, the rebuild has started. Today being breezy and warmer I decided to start and paint the new galv. chassis. First washed it down with wire wool and the panel wipe/degreaser, wipe down with lint free cloth. Very few burrs of galv. to remove. Decided to use the paint brush for the etch primer, struggling to 'borrow' suitable compressor for my spray gun. The primer painted on very well indeed and has self leveled to I would say a spray finish anyway. Did dry very fast but got no drag with the brush. I feel I may have a better thickness of primer. If I can get a lift, hope to have the chassis on axle stands tomorrow ready for chassis black. Must admit, glad we used brushes, the fumes even out side were quite strong, would most certainly have needed a 'propper' face mask, goggles, coverall etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 (edited) Interesting to note that Richards are doing the centre tub support to original design (later it was a angle welded on top of the chassis - that way you don't get the water trap because you don't use the pintle packer with the bite out). Although less of a problem with a galve chassis. Could you please show a photograph of the chassis front - I am interested to see how they do the dumb-irons - if later doubler plate type (with holes for later steering damper bracket) or early type.. Edited March 12, 2011 by ruxy spelling error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 No prob. will take pics. tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 If your after a compressor Aldi are getting some in next week at £79. I used a similar sized one to spray my landy 10 years ago. also used it to waxoil the chasis too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Thanks for the info. regards compressor. I will need one for spraying bodywork/waxoil. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daz76 Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Very interesting thread. Wow that original chassis was toast! I can recommend Autosparks they even built a custom loom for me a couple of years ago to fit a 300 Tdi into a series 2a. They hadn;t done one before but put all the correct fittings on and were really helpful even to the point of the chap building the loom phoning part way through the build to check which instruments and warning lights I would be carrying over to the series 2a. Money well spent I say. As a 17 yr old I had a series 3 with those distinctive sounding tyres and had to park at the other end of the village and walk the last bit otherwise my parents knew exactly what time I arrived home...:angel: Looking forward to seeing more of the rebuild as it progresses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 (edited) Interesting to note that Richards are doing the centre tub support to original design (later it was a angle welded on top of the chassis - that way you don't get the water trap because you don't use the pintle packer with the bite out). Although less of a problem with a galve chassis.Could you please show a photograph of the chassis front - I am interested to see how they do the dumb-irons - if later doubler plate type (with holes for later steering damper bracket) or early type.. Pic. of front dumb iron. Any more let me know, hope to start rebuild in next couple weeks when chassis black done.Thanks daz for comments. Edited March 14, 2011 by airportable Spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 OK - later type and I can see the inner doubler plate on the offside. If you could show a picture of the No.2 cross-member (with relay hole(s)) - probably a pressed inverted U rather than four welded corners using all flat plates. Also - if you don't mind a few detail photographs of the intersection of main longerons with the rear tow-member. Should get better pics when in grey primer.. I have a difficult decision if I ask for builing to original design - but I think Richards use thicker material (than originals) in the longeron side plates that may resolve the problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 OK - later type and I can see the inner doubler plate on the offside. If you could show a picture of the No.2 cross-member (with relay hole(s)) - probably a pressed inverted U rather than four welded corners using all flat plates. Also - if you don't mind a few detail photographs of the intersection of main longerons with the rear tow-member. Should get better pics when in grey primer.. I have a difficult decision if I ask for builing to original design - but I think Richards use thicker material (than originals) in the longeron side plates that may resolve the problems. I'm afraid a little of the terminolgy is lost on me! But understanding the No.2 cross member is a pressed inverted U. (can take pic. tmoz. for record) Is this other pic. the area you want detail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Desert Sand always looks good on a Land Rover Lightweight and they did to the first Gulf War???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utt61 Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 May I ask what primer you have used (and what under- and top-coats you intend to use)? I have had some issues with adhesion in the past even using two-pack etch primer on galv, yours looks more successful. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 May I ask what primer you have used (and what under- and top-coats you intend to use)? I have had some issues with adhesion in the past even using two-pack etch primer on galv, yours looks more successful. Thanks. Having never done such a job before I just took advice from a paint man up the road. Sold me 5Lt of a clear fluid to wash off galv,basically a degreaser. One pack etch primer followed by a chassis black. I had been told of all sorts of preperations/chemicls. So I will see how it all works out. Intend to coat with a underseal, much like on 54HG12. Must admit the primer was soon dry, the following day found it allmost impossible to rub down any odd run so where I scrapped off the run the galv. appeared to have taken 'in' the paint, chemical reaction?I intent to buy the Nato Green from Him to spray body overall as left Rover, then just spray outer panels white for UN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover8FFR Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Having never done such a job before I just took advice from a paint man up the road. Sold me 5Lt of a clear fluid to wash off galv,basically a degreaser. One pack etch primer followed by a chassis black. I had been told of all sorts of preperations/chemicls. So I will see how it all works out. Intend to coat with a underseal, much like on 54HG12. Must admit the primer was soon dry, the following day found it allmost impossible to rub down any odd run so where I scrapped off the run the galv. appeared to have taken 'in' the paint, chemical reaction?I intent to buy the Nato Green from Him to spray body overall as left Rover, then just spray outer panels white for UN. Sounds like good advice from your neighbourly paint man. Would be great if you could share the brand and specs once you are satisfied that the products are robust so that future chassis are so well treated. :cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Sounds like good advice from your neighbourly paint man. Would be great if you could share the brand and specs once you are satisfied that the products are robust so that future chassis are so well treated. :cool2: No prob. will do.Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Sounds like good advice from your neighbourly paint man. Would be great if you could share the brand and specs once you are satisfied that the products are robust so that future chassis are so well treated. :cool2: If he does not contact you in the rest of your lifetime - then it was a good paint system !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 Day off work t'day and the sun out. Decided to start the rebuild propper. Chassis blacked, must admit it was hard work. Black dryed very fast so it was the brush in the tin, wipe on chassis, back in tin for more. No chance of overbrushing, but it has painted well and I want to treat with a underseal much like my other Landi. Very first part refitted was the steering relay followed by the front springs and axle. Boy are the parts heavy! So far everything been spot on with the new chassis. I'm very lucky I have a stock of imperial washers, UNF and UNC nuts and bolts to replace fittings I dont want to reuse. It would make a rebuild much easyier to have bolts etc. bagged up ready for use and not have to find them once you have started, especially imperial flat/spring washers. Will post contact details for paint, forgot to look t'night and I need my tea.:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevpol Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 looking good mate, will it be finished in time for HCVS Drive it Day? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrtcrowther Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 I hope thats a genuine steering relay and not a S*&tpart one. The genuine one is fine the other will kill you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airportable Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 looking good mate, will it be finished in time for HCVS Drive it Day? Mark When is HCVS day Mark? If next year should be finished :cheesy:.Yep the steering relay is a origional Rover one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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