question Ferret running problem

[Toolman]

Hello guys

 

I need ask for a bit of your expertise again.

 

I'm having a bit of a running problem with the ferret. It runs fine on the flat, but when it hits a hill and I have to give it more pedal, it starts to cut out, to the extent that I almost lose all power and nearly comes to a stop (well it did the first time) By feathering the throttle i managed to get it going again, then limp home at low revs.

 

I suspect a fuel issue, so i have drained and flushed the fuel tank, flush all the pipes and cleaned the filter and the banjo union filter. Then refilled with fresh fuel. the filter and the banjo mesh were pretty clean so i suspected that this might not have been the issue, but I am please that I have done it. Anyway, it's not solved the problem.

 

What else could it be? Could my fuel pump be on it's way out? Or could there be something in the carb? (it's all original, i.e standard mechanical fuel pump)

[sirhc]

Cork seal in the change over tap?

[barrynevuk]

If everything has been to pieces it might be an idea to double check all the pipes have been nipped up, so no air can be getting in. I had trouble at 1 point with the seal not sitting correctly around the fuel filter bowl, again letting in air. Suppose you have enough fuel? Have you tried switching the fuel changeover tap to the other side?

[Toolman]

It all seemd to flow through alright when I flushed the system. I'll try running it on the reserve side, as you say, maybe it could be the cork gasket, or even the union in the bottom of the main tank.

 

Cheers

[ferrettkitt]

It all seemd to flow through alright when I flushed the system. I'll try running it on the reserve side, as you say, maybe it could be the cork gasket, or even the union in the bottom of the main tank.

 

Cheers

 

It might flow through the tap but just not fast enough to keep up with demand, have you put the tap back to where you normally have it? You might find that you have switched to the side that you haven't used.

[Lewis Garner]

It might flow through the tap but just not fast enough to keep up with demand, have you put the tap back to where you normally have it? You might find that you have switched to the side that you haven't used.

we had similar problem. last component we dismantled was the fuel tap and the gallery had straw like material in it obviously limiting the flow. be careful not to damage cork gasket though, they are often fragile. we leave tap to reserve side and never move it.

 

best regards lewis

[Matthewc66]

I had the same issue and we did everything including switching to electronic ignition.

 

The culprit was a fuel pump that worked but couldn't pump fast enough.

 

Put in a new fuel pump and it ran like a top..

[Toolman]

Thanks for the info chaps.

 

I'm going to have a look at the tap this weekend. I'm hoping it's not going to be the fuel pump. I suspect it might be a pig to get to

[Andrew S]

You might consider looking at the ignition system. Mine had a similar problem (worse going up hills) and then it got to the point it would not even start. A couple of easy things you could do is take the cover off the junction box and see if the connection for the ballast resistors is corroded. If so could clean the contacts etc. Another thing is the condenser. If you have an old condenser it might be good to just switch it out for a new one (only costs about $5 so an easy thing to switch and if old it is better to have a new one anyway.) Would be best to get new rather than an old stock B60 condenser as those can go bad on the shelf.

 

Another test to see if the ballast resistor circuit is the culprit is to pull down slightly on the starter lever when it is acting up. Not enough to activate the starter motor. If it starts running better then it indicates the ignition coil is not getting enough voltage because of a bad ballast circuit. depressing the starter bypasses the circuit and gives the coil a full 24v. Mine would sputter and stall on a hill but if I did slightly depressed the starter lever it would run better and not stall. Turned out my ballast resistors were all corroded & I also had a condenser going bad.

I was lucky I figured this out before I ripped apart the carburettor which was another likely culprit.

 

Andrew

[Lord Burley]

I would change the points and condenser. Had problems exactly like yours,and it turned out to be worn points. I could get along the flat ok. But soon as i needed more power to climb a hill i used to get all sorts of problems.It would barely make it and start to cough.

 

Ive also replaced the coil. No problems since.

[MARTIN CROSS]

Hi

My Pig also had a similar problem and the culprit was the small electrical 'filter' on the side of the block. To my recollection it was about the size of a cotton reel , not the larger round 'box' that feeds the coil. I seem to remember that the filter feeds into this. Shorting/bypassing it immediately solved the problem.

Good luck,

Martin

[Andrew S]

On my Ferret I decided to cover all the bases and I replaced the Points system with an electronic (magnetic ) system by Jolley engineering. I also replaced the coil with a new high performance one also from Jolley. In doing this I covered all the possibilities in one go. I replaced the points, bypassed the old ballast resistors and replaced the coil. With the new system I no longer needed a condensor. Now runs great.

 

I think the easiest first step is to try replacing the condensor. It is cheap and easy to replace and could be the only problem. Also check the ballast resistors in the junction box. Mine were all corroded. I ended up bypassing them anyway but I could have taken the contacts apart and cleaned them and it might have worked ok. I would consider down the road replacing the system like I did as it is much better all round.

 

Andrew