GMC CCKW Problem.

[shopnut]

Not a good picture, this is the failed seal, a piece is missing which can just be seen, from my transfer box, due to excess pinion movement from frigged bearings, hope to find a replacement box as the oil that remained had that silvery look, very likely gears and remaining bearings could be in a similar condition. Its a major job to remove the transfer case due to the weight and replacing those 2 bearings on the output shaft would need the box out and stripped.

Dont look like I will be attending Duxford next Sunday, not in this truck anyway.

 

 

[N.O.S.]

I know it doesn't help you in your rush to get to Duxford, but don't be in too much of a hurry to weigh the old box in without first taking a look.

 

I had to fully re-bearing a Chev 1 1/2T transfer box where the bearings had all but turned to silver emulsion. Like you I wasn't hopeful. But amazingly the gear teeth were like new - they were made 'proper' back then, even in the great rush to fill Europe up with automobiles

[Degsy]

I wouldn't worry too much about removing and replacing the transfer box. As long as you have a level area to move a jack on the job is quite easy.

[shopnut]

Truck is on level ground, concrete, and I have a commercial transmission jack, just need to make a bracket to secure the box to the jack. I will strip down first, would like to think its just the output bearings that are the problem, we will see this Friday/Saturday.

[Degsy]

Truck is on level ground, concrete, and I have a commercial transmission jack, just need to make a bracket to secure the box to the jack. I will strip down first, would like to think its just the output bearings that are the problem, we will see this Friday/Saturday.

:thumbsup:

[shopnut]

Decided to try and remove rear cover without removing transfer box, managed to do this after spending some 30 mins. cutting through the very top bolt with a not so sharp hacksaw blade!, as it fouled the crossmember, once the head was cut off I was able to remove the cover, gears and bearings I can see all look ok, so the plan is to replace those top bearings only and reassemble, although it may be tricky putting the cover back on, the bolt I cut off will be replaced with a shorter one.

[Degsy]

Hope it works out ok for you,keep us posted.:-)

[M5Clive]

The bolt I cut off will be replaced with a shorter one.

 

Blimey, I hope this won't effect the warranty!

[shopnut]

Blimey, I hope this won't effect the warranty!

 

And what warranty may that be ?? and just as well I did not take notice of your ' go on drive it home ' message!!

[shopnut]

Just a update, as the bearings failed to arrive for the transfer box, I decided to remove the pan below the clutch, as nice surprise here, broken radial springs from the clutch disc, must have made some noise as the pan is damaged where these broken springs become jammed between the pan and flywheel, gearbox now to be removed.

 

Then I thought I would look at the excess movement in P.S. trackrod pin, decided to remove wheel for better access only to find one stud turns in hub!, have started to cut off nut hope to try and save stud, as demountable drum fitted once wheel removed, can remove drum and hopefully rectifi with removing hub, when laying under there I thought those brake shoe anchor bolt nuts look look loose, sure enough they were finger tight! and the drivers side is the same.

 

Happy days, just why did I buy this 'Heep'?

[M5Clive]

Cos' you couldn't resist a bargain! But think of the profit margin when you move it on.........

 

I'll tell Mike Davis you'll be taking it to Beltring for his inspection!

 

By the way, I saw your old hard cab CCKW the other day. It looks the works.

[shopnut]

Cos' you couldn't resist a bargain! But think of the profit margin when you move it on.........

 

I'll tell Mike Davis you'll be taking it to Beltring for his inspection!

 

By the way, I saw your old hard cab CCKW the other day. It looks the works.

 

At this rate it will never make it out of the yard!!

[Nick Bombini]

Just a update, as the bearings failed to arrive for the transfer box, I decided to remove the pan below the clutch, as nice surprise here, broken radial springs from the clutch disc, must have made some noise as the pan is damaged where these broken springs become jammed between the pan and flywheel, gearbox now to be removed.

 

 

 

I just recently had the same problem. I lost two torsion springs (or radial springs) from my clutch disk and the rest where all loose.

 

 

Luckily enough, we have a local rebuilding shop that happened to have one ready to go.

 

 

It really is fairly easy to replace the clutch. Once I had the accessories disconnected and the floor pan removed, I removed the transmission top and attached an engine hoist with an engine leveler to remove the transmission from above. Reinstalling it was a breeze. The engine hoist and leveler kept everything in alignment so I had no trouble. I personally am not a fan of transmission jacks as they are a pain the the butt to get level while stabbing the transmission.

 

--Nick

[shopnut]

Just a update, gearbox and clutch removed, found radial springs broken and disc material near to rivets and breaking up.

 

Release bearing carrier screws all finger tight, one had the head missing and another head came off whilst removing, this is probaly the source of a another oil leak.

 

 

Decided to remove transfer box, just as well as one mounting bolt was broken, yet to remove the broken part from case, and been broken for sometime judging by the rust around the mounting, another was loose. As I now have another box, which requires work to two of the mounting bolt threads and also have the new bearings to repair box just removed, will probaly do the latter.

 

Degsy, it would be easier to use overhead gantry, but I do not have that option, although truck has 7 set fitted, I could always unbolt and turn around, have gantry over cab, now thats a thought............

[Gordon_M]

Pillow blocks can go west at the worst times, usually taking the transfer case and rear axle diff with them, so worth a check.

 

Give it a good rattle, check it is full of grease and correctly adjusted. As far as I know you can't over-grease a pillow block ...

[Degsy]

Turning the 7 set Rob, now there's a thought but it would be easier to just use the machine you will need to lift the 7 set to lift the gearbox and transfer box:D A good way of changing the transfer box is to use a pallet on the forks on a bobcat, farm handler or even a JCB if you have access to one of these machines it makes the job very easy. The gearbox could be done the same way but the machine would need to have side shift. With a soft cab truck a gearbox change is quite easy with the use of a 360 mini digger or a JCB.

[shopnut]

Turning the 7 set Rob, now there's a thought but it would be easier to just use the machine you will need to lift the 7 set to lift the gearbox and transfer box:D A good way of changing the transfer box is to use a pallet on the forks on a bobcat, farm handler or even a JCB if you have access to one of these machines it makes the job very easy. The gearbox could be done the same way but the machine would need to have side shift. With a soft cab truck a gearbox change is quite easy with the use of a 360 mini digger or a JCB.

 

It was only a joke, turning around the 7 set, transmission jack is all I have, works quite well and its a concrete base, just need to ensure what you are lifting is secured well to jack.

 

Really need to move the truck outside now and steam clean in the chassis, much easier when gearbox and transfer box is removed.

 

All good fun, now when is Beltring................

[LoggyDriver]

I know it's a pain in the backside doing all this work. I imported a Toyota Hilux from Japan (still own it) and within a year I had a cracked head - parts alone cost me £1,500 and I did all the work myself. I also had to replace the radiator at a cost of £480, front drive boot repair kit £350, rear hard/soft shocks £250, rear exhaust £280, new set of tyres £500, cambelt, tensioner and pulley £???. Since all this work has been done the trucks been fine.

 

The point is once you have all the jobs done the truck will be sorted. At least if you sell it you will get your money back (in my case I wont and that's why I still own it).

 

Sounds like you need to have a look at everything to make sure everything is tight as it seems to have a lot of loose bolts etc?

 

Keep your chin up mate, every job done is a job less on the "to do" list.:-)

[shopnut]

I know it's a pain in the backside doing all this work. I imported a Toyota Hilux from Japan (still own it) and within a year I had a cracked head - parts alone cost me £1,500 and I did all the work myself. I also had to replace the radiator at a cost of £480, front drive boot repair kit £350, rear hard/soft shocks £250, rear exhaust £280, new set of tyres £500, cambelt, tensioner and pulley £???. Since all this work has been done the trucks been fine.

 

The point is once you have all the jobs done the truck will be sorted. At least if you sell it you will get your money back (in my case I wont and that's why I still own it).

 

Sounds like you need to have a look at everything to make sure everything is tight as it seems to have a lot of loose bolts etc?

 

Keep your chin up mate, every job done is a job less on the "to do" list.:-)

 

It is a pain, really bought the truck to use, its now turned into a mini restoration, hoping I can get my money if I do decide to sell, although having to do all this work probaly end keeping it and probaly fit a hard cab I have in restoration, yours also a sad story, guess its some you lose some you win.