Niels v Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Would you be interested in selling some of the parts. My Pioneer has been converted and things are missing off of it. and would like to restore to original state. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 Would you be interested in selling some of the parts.My Pioneer has been converted and things are missing off of it. and would like to restore to original state. Cheers I have the rear rollers and the jib, the rollers are restored, but the jib is not. I also have one engine side cover, but i cant remember which side. I will confess, i dont have any idea what they would be worth, but it would be better to see them on a lorry than doing nothing. Alan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 An expensive pile of rubber to go on the restored wheels.:-D Yes i know there is only 5, 1 is already fitted. Alan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 Radiator, this did not need to much doing to it, just one small leak which i managed to soft solder up.:-D Dam heavy thing, nearly got a hernia putting it on the chassis.:sweat: Alan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SV2S Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Ace1, your restoration is inspiring and i well remember when we bought 6 new 1400/20 for ours glad we did it over 10 years ago though prices have more than doubled since. i would be really interested in the engine side cover as i dont have either side for ou SV2S, please let me know if you are willing to part with it. keep the pictures coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 SV2S, PM sent. Alan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SV2S Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Alan Not sure if you got PM please call me 07774 163311 Cheers Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 Some veiws of some of the chassis components. In the open ended barn where most work was done, dust is worst enemy, it makes even a new paint job look a bit naff.:cry: 1. Brake cylinder. 2. Bank overdraught, i mean fuel tank. 3. Neat brake and trasmission assembly. 4. One of the rear wheel brake drumms. Alan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 The front mudgards were very rough, but didnt have to many holes, they got well beaten with several hammers to get them into shape, (nearly). They are not perfect by any means, but they have "character" or something.:cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 think the dents add history mate , we have a couple of little ones in our Munga . dont want it too perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 A few more pictures of the chassis with bits added. (they have loaded in reverse order)???? Never mind. The small machine skates under the back wheels are a good idea if you have limited space, you just push the whole truck across the shed to make room on the side you are working. Alan.:wow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfy Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Superb work well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 9, 2010 Author Share Posted January 9, 2010 Some pictures of the engine being refitted. We used an engine hoist for the gearbox, but the engine needed something a bit stronger. Thanks to a few mates the engine was in about 30 mins after the first lift . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daz76 Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 What a great thread and superb restoration. Thanks for posting the photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 12, 2010 Author Share Posted January 12, 2010 Thanks for the positive comments. Here are a few more genaral veiws. The new bulkhead was laser cut using measurements from what was left of the old one. The cab frame was not to bad after the old skin was removed and straightend out. Even some of the wood inserts were reusable,:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 14, 2010 Author Share Posted January 14, 2010 Rad fitted, new cab front, prop shaft, and the bonnet, still in primer. This was the middle of winter, i could only feel my hands for about 15 mins before retreating back into the small workshop cleaning small items. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Fantastic job Alan, when you look at what you started with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 16, 2010 Author Share Posted January 16, 2010 (edited) Fuel filters fitted and plumbed in, also the base of the voltage regulator. I found later that the scammell regulator was beyond my repair skills, a new one was to expensive, but i managed to find a matador (is this spelt correctly?)((yes!)) regulator that was suitable. The instrument pannel is fitted, less the spedo, which i got along with the cable and a new fuel gauge. Edited January 16, 2010 by ace1 looked up how to spell matador. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 The first time the scammell moved under its own power. This was a GOOD day. It makes all the cold days and nights worth it!!!:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Here are a couple of views of the rear and the front after cleaning all the dust off. Then after a few phone calls, the HIAB doner vehicle was found just down the road. After measuring the fixing points the bolt on part was welded up and fixed to the rear using 16, 16mm high tensile bolts, so the whole assembly can be removed if required.:wow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Nice one Alan ! Keep em coming please mate ! We love all this type of work !:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Thanks Andy, I am having a bit of trouble with the attachment manager, and the print size changed in cyberspace, but i will put some more pictures on very soon.:-D Alan.:thanx: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 22, 2010 Author Share Posted January 22, 2010 (edited) Here is a few more pictures. The HIAB has been bolted on, and the new cab panels are in the process of being fixed to the frame. The dark piece of wood in the top left of the cab is the original corner, which was handy. After the HIAB was on the back, we only had one slight problem, it had made the front wheels so light that on wet grass it would not go round corners! The solution was a 1 ton block placed just behind the cab. Since the rest of the rear body has been put on this has also helped with the steering problem. Not being a carpenter, all the rear is steel (you cant weld wood:-D) pictures to follow later. Also found a nice bit of wood (dont know the name, and some one made it for me) to replace the old rotten bit on the front of the cab. Edited January 22, 2010 by ace1 missed out a word. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasSomT. Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 Ace 1 - Tell me to mind my own, you obviously know what you are doing, excellent progress so far, BUT why have you stuck the Hiab behind the rear axle? I know you have put a 1 Tonne 'counter'weight behind the cab, but when you lift anything, it's weight, and the counter weight will be trying to bend the chassis over the axles, surely? Just my gut engineering feeling, I am no crane/lifting gear bloke, but that's what it looks like to me. Have you got a specific reason to rear mount the Hiab? The original Ford D Series installation has got it between the axles, I know it is up close behind the front axle, but that is still between them, and it doesn't need a 1 tonne counterweight to be carried everywhere you go! I know the Hiab has stabiliser legs. Just my 2 penceworth, I hope you don't mind Chas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace1 Posted January 23, 2010 Author Share Posted January 23, 2010 Hi Chas, the reason for the position of the hiab is that it would not go behind the cab, or between the wheels without drastic changes to the cab or chassis. Tha hiab is bolted to the chassis so that the basic outline of the scammell is unchanged and could be removed if required. Alan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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