Stormin

I think some clarification is required on the difference between the Jate Ring and the lashing / tie down eye, which both affix to the same points on the chassis. Jate ring [ATTACH=CONFIG]35764[/ATTACH] Lashing eye [ATTACH=CONFIG]35765[/ATTACH] The Jate rings should be used in a pair and fixed to the chassis using M12 Grade 8.8(min) bolts.

Just came across these in a thread on another forum. http://www.28dayslater.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=54408 Don't know if they've been mentioned on here before, but all look in remarkably good condition, not range targets.

Mike, What's the method of holding the valve spring caps on there, it can't be split collets surely?

Can a broach similar to that shown not be used several times to cut out each side of the square in turn? I can't see how a four sided broach can work on the first pass where it would be cutting on all four sides. As far as a blued fit onto the column. I don't think the current condition of the taper on the shaft would reliably transfer a good and consistent amount of marking to the hub on subsequent re-fits. Unless of course you refinish the shaft first by building up with metal or filler and re-shaping to a smooth finish. Given that the aluminium hub of the wheel is soft the good whack with a hammer should do much to sort out any slight discrepancies in fit. Occasional re-tightening of the centre nut may be required as the hub relaxes to a better fit.

Have the other two T's gone as well? Doesn't look as though there's much left next to were yours was now. Glad they've eventually relented and parted with it so it doesn't get any worse.

The rear corner of the one with the fabricated hull looks like almost new metal! Very clean plate, almost no pitting and the weld looks shiny. Looks almost like someones restoration project has been dragged out into the woods.

How about casting the hole into the wheel and just trim up with a square file? Should be quite easy to make a plug mold for the square taper. The wheel pattern looks almost good enough to be just painted and used as is. Who would know? apart from a few people following this thread on here.

Mike, Putting the return edge on the plate as per parts diagram picture would necessitate enlarging the plate 3/8-1/2inch or so. That would then interfere with the removal of the front grill from it's clip. Probably why non of the ones I've seen match the parts book.

A couple of 101's with winch fairlead reinforcing plate fitted and a close up.

You're probably better of with the steel fabrication or if it's really untidy making your own version. The genuine ones are cast and renowned for cracking especially if dealing with a side load. Certainly not worth buying a genuine one at that price.

So you haven't cut up the Combat Engineers Tractor yet then?

If you are thinking of importing you may as well fill the container, two on the floor and four if you stack them. Probably still room for spares as well. Sell what you don't need when it get over here. Just a thought, but may as well make it worth your while on shipping cost. Save the best bits for yourself and sell the rest.

Because a Jeep fits in your average garage, still allowing space for the washing machine, kids bikes etc. Because a Jeep is easy to drive on a normal driving licence. Because a Jeep is easy to fix with plenty of spares available from many dealers. These are the facts that must have driven prices up as it certainly isn't down to rarity.

1Deg 57'19.48"W 53Deg 09'33.21"N Or NGR SK03078 62464 Interestingly near a place called RAMshaw.

That looks ridiculous on those tyres Mike. Bet it's got more grip and off road ability than standard bar grips though. What I'd give for that left hand rear bumperette! I've retrofitted a Nokken on my vehicles but haven't been able to aquire the rear bumperette which includes winch fairlead mounting. If you remove it to do cross member repairs I'd be interested in borrowing it as a template to copy and modify one of mine standard ones. Are you sticking with the home made truck cab or going back to canvas roof? All the hoops were available from the 101 club shop, last I looked, for ridiculously cheap prices.

That's usually the front propshaft, a renowned 101 feature. Some people claim to have cured it by re-setting the prop joints out of phase.

At least later ones MB's needed a key to start I believe.

Sounds like a good way of making a not very cheap vehicle even more expensive. I would suggest buying a privately restored one were someone hasn't costed their time, effort and profit into the project.

Looks like it's a prototype with different side doors from production versions and a Whale tail spoiler for some reason. Looks to sit very low in the water. They have a good few goes at trying to swamp it with the passing gun boat bow wave, so assume it's an evaluation exercise.

Is your new one from up the North East? Saw a mint one up there a few years ago. Think it had hardly been used. Would definately have been suitable for the MOD to re-aquire back in the early nineties.

All the noise in mine came from the bad rear diff and the gearbox.

Were those automatic free wheel hubs as most of the Japanese motors seemed to have at the time? Took the hassle out of engaging and disengaging manually. I think from the economy figures Mike gives it's hardly worth bothering with freewheel hubs. I never noticed any performance or economy difference myself, but perhaps that's due to the more than ample power of a 2 1/4 petrol land rover.

Another reason to periodically engage front hubs on Land Rovers is to lubricate the top swivel bearing. Don't know if it's the same arrangement on the Jeep but suspect as Land Rover copied it probably is. The top swivel bearing is actually a railco bush similar material to bakelite but absorbs oil, it eventually dries out. The bush relies on splash feed lubrication from the moving UJ in the oil filled swivel housing joint. Run with the hubs out and this joint doesn't rotate or feed oil to the top bearing. I had front free wheel hubs on my Land Rover and never ran with them disengaged. I should've refitted standard drive flanges really.

There are other options than crown wheel and pinion. Don't forget the very heavy duty vehicles of WWII the Pacifics used a chain drive to the rear axles. Also in use on Sentinel steam wagons until the 1950's. A chain is a very efficient method of transmitting power with little losses. An entire transmission system is a chain of torque multipliers from the engine to the wheels. With few exceptions, every link, gearbox, transfer box, differential, hub reductions increase the torque to the driven wheel. Each link induces some loss is power through friction. The size and reduction ratio of each link governs how strong the next link down the chain must be.

You'll be putting me off doing any repairs to my vehicles with statements like that!