Stormin

Well since the system is single circuit you could measure fluid pressure straight out of the master cylinder. You could also work out pedal force, pedal lever arm and master cylinder diameter and see how much assitance the hydrovac is giving above the theoretical pressure. Do you really want to put extra hydraulic pressure to the existing slave cylinders, possibly above what they were designed for?

I would say you do want to be able to lock all six wheels, if the vehicle is unladen and you hit the pedal and can't lock the wheels up something is wrong. It's then down to the driver to mitigate wheel locking by skilful driving according to load and grip conditions. I'll agree with Neil though that the proposed air to hydraulic link at each wheel sounds overly complicated. Sounds like you've already spent quite a bit of money on the current brake set-up, why bin it all in favour of another experiment? You mention that most of the mechanical parts are new or overhauled but what about the friction surfaces? Have you had the brake shoes re-lined and with what compound, are the drums new or skimmed? Brake linings come in many different grades, with differing initial grip / bite from hot and cold. Modern lining materials designed for heavy trucks with high power ABS brakes will not really suit your old hydraulic braked truck. They are also designed for high mileage and high wear resistance therefore are a harder compound giving lower initial grip. May well be worth trying some different brake linings. Also what is the condition of the drums? Have they been skimmed are they still within tolerance? Even if they have been skimmed past oil contamination can still be soaked into the cast material.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I imagine that most practice weaponry doesn't carry the full explosive charge, for safety and cost reasons.

Bit of a shame, surely something smaller would prove more challenging, an Antar is the proverbial barn door of a target. Perhaps it's just for the begginers!

Another point to bear in mind is that although they likely get abuse from un-sympathetic punters, most of the driving is supervised and the maintenance is likely done at least well enough to keep them running and earning their keep. I know someone who ran few vehicles for corporate entertainment for a few years and they were reasonably well maintained. If you make the investment on many vehicles you also need to invest in the necessary equipment to maintain them, heavy lifting gear, specialist tools etc. That sort of investment is probably beyond the scope of many hobby enthusiasts but is almost essential for someone running several vehicles for profit. From that perspective vehicles may well have been better maintained in corporate hands than by private individuals.

He says Ferret shell, so we are assuming it comes without engine and gearbox. A reasonable reason to use a more modern engine and transmission if the original isn't there to start with.

But if the internal surface of the pipe is corroded due to moisture in the fuel or covered with deposits laminar flow will not exist. Turbulent flow and reduced velocity ensues. I would have expected a 10mm pipe would be sufficient but is it on the lift(suction) or supply (pressure) side of a pump?

BMW 6 pot turbo diesel would be my favoured way if I wasn't keeping original. Available from many motors with both auto or manual boxes. Plenty of power and high revving. Not too much in the way of electronics if you get an older one.

Stollys are on disc brakes though and Jimmys are on drums. Disc pads tend to run closer to the surface and need a lot less fluid movement to apply pressure. Disc calipers also tend to require higher fluid pressure as the braking friction surface is a lot less than drums. Isn't home modification of the braking system going to be frowned upon by the authorities, VOSA and your insurance to name a few?

PM Sent.

To be fare regarding the Cent ARV, at 51 tonnes it is for sale at below current scrap price, so maybe you can't expect too much.

Looks like you unloaded from the flat bed with a side lift but the Ward looks too close to have the side support leg out. Did you rig a line out from the other side of the Ward to prevent it overturning?

It's a Scammell Pioneer. Doesn't look at all neglected really. May just go to other events than ones you've been at. Maybe historic commercial rather than military gatherings.

I must add my congratulations! A superb restoration and the quality of the work is evident in the way it runs. That is an incredibly low idle speed, any idea what the rpm actually are? Looking forward to seeing the first drive which surely can't be to far away.

As far as I'm aware CVRT vehicles don't present a problem as there is no over width issue. They are less than 2.55m wide. The fact they have tracks, armour, gun etc is not really an issue. I think they also have seperate braking and steering mechanisms although that shouldn't concern the DVLA.

You missing a year? What's wrong with an event in 2011? Is it already too late to plan for one. Isn't there some Olympic stuff going on in Weymouth a few weeks later? They may not be keen on vehicles getting anywhere near and interfering with last minute preparations.

The key word there being "Hopefully"

Are they there to press the spec lift frame closer to the ground? One question with that photograph. How do you recover the recovery vehicle from that ditch?

From what I've read the wedge socket is the strongest type of end fitting. The only one that doesn't reduce the strength of the wire rope. Maybe someone else can confirm?

Won't the cranking amp test involve installing a very heavy duty amp meter in line or is there a simpler method? Also when conducting the voltage drop test during cranking, isn't there a danger of burning out the multimeter, if the leads to the starter are bad and more current takes the path along the meter leads?

Some details here. http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/Wire-Rope-Fittings-eliminate-need-for-swage-press-479682 Sounds like there is a plug pushed up the centre of the rope to allow the compression fitting to work against something. I've seen them listed in stainless steel intended for yacht rigging, or architectural support systems but nothing as big as for 3/4 wire winch rope. Another similar type here:- http://www.s3i.co.uk/swagelessterminals.php

Whilst were on the subject of winching and recovery. What are peoples opinions on these end fittings to winch ropes as oppposed to the usual thimble? [ATTACH=CONFIG]33320[/ATTACH] Are they as strong as modern cable end fittings? Are they correct to World War Two period? Are they still available? I suppose the advantage they had is that they could be re-rigged onto the end of a broken cable in the field. They also leave the end of the cable tidy with no loose end or sharp wires to bite into hands.

Not sure I can agree with the last sentence. If I KERR rope is no more effective than using a dead tow why were they developed?

Isn't all that holding power now good enough to make use of the snatch blocks you claimed were almost useless previously and effectively increase the pull of the winch?

I was just thinking of the engine starting! I forgot the transmission was back together so presumably it could be test drive :-D British bank holiday weather allowing of course.