Stormin

Didn't you consider converting it to LPG on the standard engine? Not too dear for a kit and simpler than a diesel engine conversion. Stick with 24v better starting and ignition spark which is a necessity with LPG.

What if the toppled truck above is a curtain sider? Surely you have to unload the goods then and through the top side curtain? Or do you take a view on the nature of the load and whether or not the curtain will support it during the lift?

Ooops! Was forgetting you were dealing with a petrol engine on this one Mike. The other one for sale on Milweb was Diesel too as I briefly considered it as an alternative engine in my Ward.

There's a recon `T' engine on Milweb about three quarters way down this page. http://www.milweb.net/classifieds.php?type=8 I thought Preston Isaac had one for sale on there as well, spares or reapairs but it may have sold now. Could be worth a call anyway as the advert may just have ended with no interest.

Break it up were it lays! MOD spending cuts for next few years taken care of in one fell swoop!

Having trouble sleeping Jack! :yawn: Not much use without then printing off the list of amendments as I linked to in my previous post. Something like 102 amendments to print off and insert into the relevant pages. That'll above double the size of the original document. :rotfl: It'll also make reading and deciphering it's references to "except as noted in paragraphs 2 and 9 below" even more of a challenge. Good Luck!

I can't find the Construction and use regulations online but numerous various amendments upto 2010 are listed here:- http://www.legislation.gov.uk/search?title=road+vehicles+construction+and+use&year=&number=&type=all Unfortunately without the master document they do not read very well or make much sense. I think the list of amendments is so vast it is surely high time the regulations were re-published. Not only do the authorities wish to hide these regulations behind legalese language, statements that they are not law but only guidance for interpretation by the courts, but also the list of amendments is so vast that no-one can possibly keep up. The whole situation is not far off a joke! As I've said before NO vehicle on the road is fully compliant with construction and use regulations. I was told this by a former traffic officer, he said the police needed to have reason to stop a vehicle for inspection. In reality they could stop any vehicle as if it came to argument they could always find some non compliance with construction and use regs. On that basis I see no likelihood that the regulations will ever be fully clarified. The ambiguity is to the advantage of the authorities in such cases.

As I said before it was deleted. You'd have been better of registering as plant or agricultural vehicle. There's plenty of tracked plant about on the roads. Don't see much difference between MV's and plant.

Mike, Have you checked and are you prepared to state that your recently purchased 101 Land Rover is fully compliant with construction and use regs?

Jerry can a month to fill the tank. Hopefully not too much evaporates before you get to run it! Best thing for fuel tanks is to keep them full and reduce chances of internal corrosion. Trouble is your on petrol and all the best bits evaporate first. Leave it too many years and you end up with a thick gunge in the tank were the petrol used to be. Keep putting a bit in now and again and giving the engine a run. Hearing it keeps the enthusiasm up on bad days.

I doubt the MOD made any such comment in the first place. They have no need for any vehicles to comply with construction and use regs as they're all exempt. I wouldn't expect they need any knowledge of how or why they fail to comply. I would expect if any MOD advice was given at all it was a simple off the cuff comment from someone who didn't want to get involved. If you really want to find out how it doesn't comply with construction and use the only way is to get it into VOSA for an official IVA test. They'll come back with a huge list of sharp edges, mirrors being too stiff, dangerous for pedestrians, not enough padding inside in case of accidents to name a few. The list will be endless. For the record I would imagine if I ran my 101 in for a similar test the list would be almost as extensive.

If the Authorities wanted to take Construction and Use regulations to the letter there wouldn't be many vehicles left on the roads. I'm sure even newly registered 60 plate cars will be found to fail on some minor detail. It seems that with the current mindset of the DVLA it's going to be very difficult to try and get any tracked MV registered for the road now. Big question is will this extend beyond tracked MV's and will they try and remove previously registered tracked military vehicles from the roads?

This place do the job! http://www.vintagewingsandradiators.co.uk/pages/home.html

Have you tried just replacing the grease nipples? They're only a few pence each and can save a lot of trouble. The grease tends to dry and soldify nearest the fitting, or the ball bearing rusts solidly in place over time. As for the tool that clears grease paths. It'll only give so much pressure probably not a lot more than a decent grease gun. Plus the dirt and contaminants are only going one way! Into the joint you are trying to lubricate and protect. Don't see the point myself. If a grease gun with new nipple doesn't clear a lubrication way I recommend a strip down and assess / clean out with detergent / solvent. If you've had a problem for some time, chances are damage has already been occuring to the joint. You can clean out and examine for wear at the same time.

Tell us more Mike! I assume it didn't work too well and that's why the Germans were able to obtain a nearly complete bomb. No real mention of why the Germans never went further with their plans for a copy cat attack on the Sheffield dams. Was it just that they were considered too heavily defended afterwards?

I think I'd rather have seen the tank museums money go on restoring or at least preserving some of these wrecks than the fancy new frontage to the building. Even a simple canopy over them and removing the plant growth would help slow the deterioration.

ASTOUNDING! :shocked:

Overheating within two miles. I wouldn't have thought all the coolant would be hot in that time. Is the waterpump turning, belts tight etc? Then check thermostat as Richard says. I have seen an what appeared to be a good water pump not working because all the fins on the impeller had corroded away. One to consider.

Placing a piece of wood on top of the jack sounds quite dangerous. It's highly likely to split under the point load on the end of a bottle jack. Far safer if you need to pack up to place wooden blocks under the blunt end (bottom) of the jack, were the load is distributed over a much larger area. Problem with bottle jacks is they are still rather narrow on the base and prone to tilting so always chock wheels securely. I have a 20 ton bottle jack and i've never actually used it in anger. I've done nearly all the jacking on my Ward La France using a Halfords 3 tonnes trolley jack. It lifts plenty high enough to change wheels with 11.00 x 20 tyres and has rapid lift until it gets to a real load.

Another possibilty is the Air museum at Elvington on the outskirts of York. http://www.yorkshireairmuseum.co.uk/

Not if it's used to mount a "dozer blade" or similar for clearing road blocks or other debris left by rioters etc.

I'd heard that a lot of stuff got sold in the late eighties to raise cash to help his brother Richard Budge buy up the U.K. coal mines. I don't think the second part of the deal happened. Something to do with Thatcher and Scargill between them all but destroying the industry.

Could've been worse had it fallen into the street. Not as bad as the Vancouver demolition I was watching on the YouTube last week. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcaFwXdEMws&feature=related and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20kfYOoSu0c

and a host of appropriate tank recovery vehicles!!!

Older leaf sprung Land Rovers don't have facility for Jate rings so the best alternative is the bumper D rings shown. [ATTACH=CONFIG]35766[/ATTACH] These are attached again with M12 Gr 8.8 bolts, four for each eye two long ones which pass right through the D ring base plate, bumper and front dumb irons, and two short ones which pass through ring base and top surface of front bumper only. The only good point on on the rear is the tow hitch unless you want to risk using the spring shackles. On most Military Land Rovers you've got the nice heavy duty Nato hitch fastened directly to the rear crossmember with four M12 High tensile bolts and a backing plate behind the crossmember so the bolts don't pull through. Beware of any drop plates fitted as these will likely bend under strain of recovery and twist the crossmember also.