N.O.S.

I wouldn't know - I didn't go to EaTON you know :D Forgotton how to sex the Turner ones now too :readbook: If the boxes are out, stick 'em in gear and turn the shaft!

Decided to have a break from ongoing mv maintenance and try to get 3 x pairs of unworn repro HBT coveralls into shape for the season. One is a really nice pair I picked up several years ago but is way over size, the other two are the better of the generic coveralls available and a little on the large side. I took the plunge and tried the nice pair and a pair of the generics on a 40 degree wash. Nice pair shrunk well but not quite enough :-|. Generic pair came out spot on :-). So tried a very risky thing and put the nice pair on a 60 degree wash. To my relief it came out spot on for size :-), but then I realised that two of the metal buttons had come apart despite the garment being buttoned up and turned inside out :cry:. They'd almost pulled through the material before separating into component parts of button and rivet. Out with the bodger's kit - one button seems to have pushed back together with a washer behind, the other is now held on by a cut-down self-tapping screw and again a washer. So - what is the secret to getting these buttons to go back and stay together ok? Do you have to prise the head cover off and use a new rivet of some sort? Are replacement buttons available? I just hit the NEW THREAD button and realised that was quite appropriate - new thread(s)? :cool2:

With the Turner 5 speed you have a choice of crawler gear (start off in 2nd) and direct top, or 'start off in 1st' and overdrive top, with 4th being direct I think. I guess Eaton offerd alternative ratios too?

Any details available, Paul? Is it one of the Perkins Phaser conversions? Not sure about Eaton, but similar capacity Turner boxes had option of direct or overdrive top gear, so you'd need to check Eaton box spec to be sure what you have got. Alternatively you could turn the engine over one rev. with box in top gear and see how the gearbox output shaft turns by comparison.

A quick update from me, as Antony is temporarily out of action - hope you're up and about soon! Engine was run up for me today and sounds lovely - hopefully it will prove a good one after a proper shake down (once the radiator is finally sorted allowing a longer run). Rear of cab is pretty much ready to put back on the chassis - the remainder of the parts from both cabs which haven't already turned to powder are being readied for blasting and 'cherry picking' :shocked: This restoration is definitely not one for the squeamish - lots done but lots more to do, but once the cab is back together there'll be no stopping him

Pics 2 and 7 show a pair of Dodge bomb service trucks in the style of Chev M6s - strange (to me at least). Can anyone throw any light on these?

Wow, that reel of cable must have been dropped from a height onto the pooor old Bedford :shocked:

Different continent but you get the idea: http://www.roadtransport.com/blogs/big-lorry-blog/NSeries%20tough%20to%20the%20end.JPG

In Pat Ware's Red Ball Xpress book - I suspect this is a U.S. proving ground view, possibly a trials vehicle. Never seen any combat photos.

Great that you got it sorted! In case anyone thinks what a crazy price to pay for insurance - if it works for you then fine. This is the cost of being in business. I'm in an industry where no insurance company was even interested in quoting for new business last year, let alone giving competitive quotes - only prepared to continue existing clients :-|

:cool2: However you could put a thin matching m/s sheet on the inside - do you think that magnetic sign material would be powerful enough to hold through the thin aluminium sides?

For quality stuff at good price try and find a local sack merchant (still a few left out there).

PM sent (no I'm not trying to sell you a body:D).

Hopefully your vehicle manual will give spec for the lift pump - maximum allowable pressure and mimimum flow rate. If you replace the mechanical lift pump this is the spec you need. I hope to find out soon (when I get a chance) whether you can put an electric pump of smaller capacity in series with the lift pump to use just to prime the system before starting, and then switch it off but allow the mechanical lift pump to draw fuel through the electric pump at a higher flow rate then the electric pump will deliver. Should be feasible to do for pulsating types of pump. Larger capacity pumps get disproportionally expensive!!

Not the best choice of phrase given the interest here in making models of military stuff!! Anyway wasn't that an actual weapon built specifically for crowd control? (plastic bullets...) I'll just grab my coat.

What a happy-looking truck!! :-)

Nice try But well summed up. There's just the issue of those few rally field events which might be regarded by the organisers as 'public highway regulations apply' for purposes of vehicle control and safety - but I guess since the red diesel thing can be only enforced by HMRC and they are only interetsed in the 'actual' and not the 'virtual' public highway, this is not going to be a problem.

One example (albeit a bit academic) of what Mike is refering to was the last fuel shortage - I got dispensation to use red diesel in our road vehicles but we had to declare the usage and pay duty. Also had to carry the paperwork around in vehicles for 12 months as even very dilute traces of red diesel can be detected. For historic vehicle tax and recreation use, simple anwer is NO

Old (1960's) Benford builders dumpers used these (3 stud) too on the rear steering axle. 16" tyres? I found some replacement wheels for my dumper from a ministry surplus place - I believe they came off an ex RAF aircraft starter or slave battery trailer. Tyres were still available 15 years ago (a standard Indian market commercial size!).

Am I going nuts, or was this not an article on here some while back? I'm sure I remember reading about it somewhere, an inspiring trip.

Mine have :-) (well it is a TL cab - the same thing really). Mind you it sits 1" higher and 1" forward to clear the Cummins 6B I know, "best of both worlds" says it all. No kit available, and not as easy as I first imagined (but it was too late by then :sweat:). I had to graft on the front crossmamber of a TL chassis and make up rear cab mount brackets. One has a hydraulic tip, the other uses torsion bar tipping. Don't even bother going there unless you have a rust free cab! Interesting about MJs being preferred over the Leyland Dafs by the guys in green.

If you rebuilt your jeep you can't say you're not a mechanic

I wonder if it is through constant yanking on the hand priming lever which moves the diaphragm much more than the mechanical lever does maybe, thus shortening life? Also I used to get a lot of trouble with repair kits in that the non-return valves would often have a powdery oxide deposit or something on the metal valve face which prevented good sealing and consequent run-back.

What on earth is the new-fangled thing in desert colours?

Thanks Hanno, info much appreciated!