N.O.S.

Well - If I hadn't lent my 1953 copy of 'Motor's Auto Repair Manual' to a certain person - who then gave it to someone else to decypher - (and where is it now I might ask?), I just might have been able to help you..... :whistle: Can I suggest you get the manual back first :-D

How did you get on with the gearbox - are you and it now the best of friends? :cool2:

There's really no need to do that - the washrooms are sparkling clean and have been so all the time you've been away :nono:

Well there's one of your winches you were after then!!!

I guess you're right - you can't really compare the two. It sort of shares the same 'different' appeal though doesn't it? I wouldn't want to drive it into the Rhine either. But I'd sure love to haul carrot bulkers around muddy fields all day with it :cheesy: A big grower (Watton Produce) was using shortened Militants for this job at one time, still the odd one or two about I believe.

And while I was typing...... thanks very much for the info John, I'd be very interested to learn more about it when you get a chance. Tony

I'm sure you're right about it starting out as a 4x4 chassis. I must say the conversion work looks good enough to be a factory experimental job - more info please anyone?

That miniature Landrover in one of the photos should really have its own thread!

Here is a mighty strange beast - reckon it must have been a civvy adaptation. It was for sale some while back on a vehicle salvage website. 1st and 2nd are steer axles. Looks to have been very competently engineered, apart from the skimpy chassis at rear spring mounts! Well the title says 6x6, but it could well have been a 4x4 with an extra non-driven steer axle tagged on maybe? Doesn't it look so much smarter than a Stalwart? :cool2: Does anyone know anything about this vehicle?

Isn't it a stripped-down organ? Note the front cut out at base for the wow-wow pedals :whistle:

And an interesting exclusion of 'step frame' low loaders from the 'low loader' 18m category - with the vast plethora of specialist trailer designs around these days it would be interesting to know at what point a trailer ceases to be a 'step frame' and becomes instead a 'low loader' :cool2:

Wish I could tell you Howard :cry:

Even the aborted re-cabbing programme for 200 or so of the MKs used a TL cab but with non-tilt mounting. Probably on cost grounds I expect. Well I say aborted - after they bought all the cab kits and only fitted a handful. Lucky for me and many other Bedfod users

I believe the EU 2 year thing is a MINIMUM period - countries are permitted to set the time period shorter should they wish, but not extend it. (Wasn't the MOT exemption for some categories of vintage vehicles clashing with some other EU stuff, but the Govt has kept it anyway?)

This nice original Huber motor roller sold today at auction in the west country - I wonder where it is off to. Any chance it might be heading up to Suffolk to join the ever-growing fleet of USAAF airfield construction equipment being amassed by a handful of 'afflicted' individuals? :nut:

:rofl::rofl::banana: Hi Paul, I think you've got it about right (whatever 'right' may be). Satin finish is good for durability, after all once a flat O.D. weathers you end up cleaning it with an oily/WD40ish rag and it acquires a similar sheen. I have recently converted to Frank B's product - the light O.D. and dark O.D. were not quite right to match another vehicle I have, and one of these is not available in Satin. So I mixed the two 50/50 and the colour is spot on for MY requirements. It seems to have ended up more satin than matt too. However - whenever I see a whole load of vehicles together, I know they are all different shades but somehow they all seem to look the same :-D In terms of colour YOU are the only one who can decide what shade is correct for your vehicle. Having said that, Chris Warne on here has spent a great deal of effort on paint shade research and has pooled knowledge from around the globe in his quest for an authentic finish. His vehicles certainly look the business (he is a flat fetishist), and almost converted me to the flat look. The only thing which stopped me was the not-quite-ideal storage facilities which would spoil the finish, as you have considered already. Nothing worse than a matt O.D. vehicle with various areas shined up from a flapping tarpaulin :mad:

Amazing how the engine rotted away to nothing yet the rest was untouched! Reminds me af an advert maybe 20 years ago in a construction plant resale mag, 'for sale Euclid 15T dumptruck been stored undercover last 20 years' - and a photo of this dumper which had just been uncovered by removal of a massive heap of quarry waste under which it had been buried!!

Hang on - Exhaust Gas Temperature, maybe?

OK, Jim - On behalf of all the others (I hope) who can't follow this either, I'll own up to not having a clue what EGT is. :blush: I guess IP is injector pump, but can you enlighten me on EGT please? Thanks!:coffee:

No don't be confused by my meandering post - I suppose you'd call it an '8 speed range change' which is exactly what you said, a 4 over 4. Try depressing the clutch only part way and see if it changes easier. What is it like engaging a gear when stationary? I'm sure the previous owner can advise on clutch brake or not.

Re-reading your post, of course that isn't what you meant - think I need to catch up on some sleep this weekend :-D Please ignore my scribble above. Except for the clutch brake bit. Would you expect to have a clutch brake fitted on a 8 speed range change box? Perhaps it depends on engine is used? If RCT(V) is correct, and the 'clutch brake' clutch was retained from the original Foden gearbox installation, then perhaps this is causing your problems. Would be a cheap one to sort if so :-) I'll have a pint, please.

Not conversely, RCT(V), in fact exactly the same as a twin splitter installation. However the use of a clutch brake is an acquired art (which I have yet to acquire) - but if you push too far down on the clutch and keep it there, it will try to stop the clutch plate (and hence gearbox input) shaft rotating completely and thus you can't get any gears to engage. Best to forget all about the clutch brake until the box is mastered in a slow, steady fashion. Then you can use it to speed the change process up a bit if necessary. The twin splitter is a lovely box to use - once on the move it should be possible to do all the splits and even the main box changes without using the clutch at all, let alone the clutch brake. I had a new demo Foden 8 wheel tipper with a twin splitter for 2 days. After the first 15 minutes it was pretty obvious that there was a serious problem with either the truck or me (exactly as Paul described above ), and a quick phone call to the dealer revealed the existence of a clutch brake - so I then knew it wasn't the truck's fault :blush:. A thoroughly enjoyable 2 days (minus 15 minutes) later I was very sad to see the truck go back :-(.

Paul - not being funny but if this is the Eaton Twin Splitter box, you are aware of the clutch brake on this unit? Push the clutch down too far you won't get any gears!! Try pressing the clutch down only just far enough to engage the gears. Once moving you can split without even using the clutch - keep power on while selecting the next split you intend to make, then when you decide to change just ease off the throttle, the drive will slacken and the split will then take place without you even realising it (just a slight clunk) until you take up drive on the throttle again. If you know all this then apologies - just trying to help :cheesy:

Yes, thanks for that. Just googled images search for B17 wreck Papua and some unbelievable images appeared - a few really evocative nice underwater views!

I wonder if the Bedford 500 for Saxon auto box application had a different flywheel to the standard one for clutch mounting? This is often (but not always) the case with engines used with autos.