Richard Farrant

Iain, it is not just you, I will not get involved on them either and it is frustrating to come across links to information which can only be had by signing on to those sites. Lets just stick to forums!

I am not wanting to start a lengthy discussion on which oil is best for what, but having been working on engines of every age size and description for 46 years, I must have learnt something along the way. Ruxy, I will have to pull you up on the above quote of yours, the definition of HD (Heavy Duty) does in fact mean "oil containing detergent, anti-oxidant and other additives to render it suitable for heavy duty diesel engines". This is a direct quote from Joint Services - Handbook of Lubricants and the later version, MoD Defence Standard for Fuels and Lubricants. Diesel engine oil is a high detergent spec. So what is your understanding of it then?

Hi Dan, Sounds like you have a good team there, all co-ordinated ! As for heatshield there are some materials around now that you could use to form up a replacement, not used them myself. The 24v to the coil is probably not needed when handcranking as it is there to compensate for power that the starter is drawing normally. But worth a try anyhow. regards, Richard

Well done James ! Looking forward to more of these in the future

Hi Dan, You will have to drain it to below the manifold level, but no need to drain all of it out.

The exhaust stud holes do run through to the water jacket. regards, Richard

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

I have had problems sourcing new belts for wartime Bedford, Austin and Humber especially as the angle of vee and width do not equate to the British Standard A, B, C, etc. There was apparantly, at the time a BS Automotive standard which is no longer recognised. A compromise has to be made and it usually means having to find a belt that rides a little higher in order to get grip on the flanks. Sometimes it is worth looking around autojumbles, if you have a list of numbers from various makers, ie John Bull, Ferodo, etc.

It also entails changing the timing cover and front mounting plate if memory serves me correct.

hi Steve, Pistons are generally turned oval on the skirt, with the thrust sides the larger diameter. Maybe this is only on alloy pistons as cast iron do not tend to expand as much? regards, Richard

They had one on their stand at the British Army Equipment Exhibition (the showcase to other governments) in 1990's along with a Perkins diesel powered M151 Mutt.

I had already made the point to the new owner about how the dynamo is driven, on another thread, but good reminder. If heed is not taken, then it will cause a problem as the timing chain could drop off the sprockets. As for changing from a straight monograde oil to a detergent multigrade, I would not trust flushing, anyhow, as multigrade oil are designed for full flow filtration systems it is not suitable for older engines, hence why these oils are still produced. Stick with the original spec. i oil is leaking it is not due to the type of oil being used, it is because there is a leak !! regards Richard

Well done Nic. Hope you will have heaps of fun with it. regards, Richard

Well done Jimmy! I recognise that Morris as it was a local one. Be aware if you have to remove the dynamo, that it is driven by the timing chain and there is a procedure to do it otherwise you will have a problem. Best of luck hope it is something simple, try the fuse in the control box first. regards, Richard

Hi Rick, We could invite Mark to bring his Albion over to Corowa next year, for Year of the World War One Vehicle, not leaving out Tim and family with their Dennis. Actually I hope someone over here comes up with an event to cover these WW1 trucks. There are a number around now. Perhaps a special theme at W&P Revival. cheers, Richard

Despite the constant gearing speed of the drum, line speed would increase as rope layers increase. Not by a lot though.

9/10 for English this week. Try harder

Neil, Most obvious task to do first is remove the switch and check for pressure with a guage, if it shows good, then switch is suspect. Always go to the source of a problem.

Ballast Resistor

The British Army have been painting engines in Eau-de-nil then Sky Blue for over 60 years and having spend a good part of my working life repairing them, I can safely say that anti freeze or oil leaks show up well on them, more so than any other colour.

Welcome to the forum, Mark. I have sent you a PM

Hi Clive, "The Bastard" is based on a Canadian Pattern Chev C60L or Ford F60L as I mentioned, you can see the Cab No13 profile still at the front end.

Hi Clive, The first one of those APC's is based on the Bedford RL, but another one some photos later is based on the Canadian Ford F60L or Chev C60L. Also a GM-Canada C15TA armoured truck and a Morris Light Recce car.

I recollect that QL tanker when it came up for sale a few years ago, the photo on this thread was one of several and I recall the other side of the lorry was painted differently, maybe so that on the film it could appear as another vehicle. Might be wrong, but this comes to mind. James, do you now own it?

Thanks Scott, Glad you enjoyed it. It was great to have Fletch join us there and although he had not covered a military vehicle event before, we seem to have convinced him it is a good subject to cover. Since meeting him I have watched some of his other programmes on the web and very entertaining. regards, Richard