Richard Farrant

Correct, I used them mainly to connect eye of winch rope to load cell.

Get them wrong and you could be going around in circles !

Plate shackles, I used them when conducting winch cut out testing for REME. Might be known as some other name though.

Two bevel boxes: Front right and rear left the same Front left and rear right the same

As there is a small amount of flex in the engine and transmission mounting the tubes have the swaged ends to allow for movement. If too tight an elbow can crack. I seem to recollect the very early Ferrets had steel tubes with parallel shouldered ends, and think they were changed due to damage of elbows.

You may be able to reclaim the two connecting pipes as I have in the past when new ones were n/a. Clean up the rolled ends and run braze around them then file around them until a sliding fit in elbows, at least they will not rust now.

Hi Sean, The smaller can is a MT item listed in the 1960 Vocab for 6MT1 as a 1 quart oilcan.

Hi Mick, The above part of your message raises suspicions to me. You say if the links were not laying flat you replaced them. There should be a small rise on each link when at rest. The rubber bushing for the hex track pin is so arranged as to have a wrapping action as the track goes around the sprocket or rear idler. Maybe this "new" track was removed because the bushes are shot? regards, Richard

Two years ago, it tipped down with rain as I arrived, nothing moved except the tractor towing the cars out of the carpark, I was one of them, 2 hours wait. Much prefer it if it is dry.

My guess is it is floating on top of a shipping container

The ground there is all chalk with hardly any top soil, it will look clean. As for mud, going by the forecast there may be mud to come ............ unfortunately.:undecided: A good effort to those that did it anyway.

When you mentioned pulley, I thought it sounded like a stand alone type with its own reservoir/sump. Those compressors driven off timing gear case of engines do usually have an oil feed pipe to them and either a drain pipe to sump or they may drain into the timing case. I f you see no pipe to the crankcase of the compressor then it has its own, if something like a Clayton Dewandre type, I recollect them having a dipstick. Photos would be good. regards, Richard

As you say it is belt driven I will assume it has its own oil. It might be too full and this is a breather hole?

Z3035 looks like a Britool stock number

Not in 1951 edition either

something to do with the construction of fortifications?

Hi Jules, there is nothing special about a MW engine, one for an OY or OX will do. Not a QL though as the block is different, due to difference in oil pump and strainer and deep well sump. Try Chris Morter in Norfolk for parts. Or Norman at Bygone Bedford Bits in Dorset

Number 2 Brown refers to SCC No.2 Brown, one of the range of Standard Camouflage Colours brought out during WW2. I have had this colour matched from a large part of a vehicle that was covered by a regulator panel inside, so not faded or disturbed.

Andy, Gearbox casings that are usually painted inside are cast iron, as most motorcycle gearbox casings are alloy, I see no reason why it would need painting. regards, Richard

Looks like the first private owner on disposal was Montes Transport Spares; http://truckpartsused.co.uk/

The reason there are large numbers of US WW2 vehicles on the UK show scene is due to them being imported in recent years from overseas countries who had them as aid after the war to build up their armies after being overrun by the Germans. A good deal of them were overhauled and retain as War Reserves. My own Bedford returned from the Danish army in 1987 having served for 44 years in British then Danish military service. It was rebuilt in 1960 and put in reserve, a good number of Dodges were released at the same time. What lorries that were disposed of by the British army after the war were snapped up by hauliers and contractors as new ones were expensive and had a waiting list. The makers were building for export to get the money in to the country.

Thanks Tim, a wonderful sight to see them working like that.

Hi Sean, It sounds like there was a mistake in the database of Lucas distributor info that I was consulting, it showed the very late ones as being CCW, which I thought it odd to have changed rotation late in the engine's lifespan. It was not a Lucas document but info must have come from them originally.

Terry, If your document lists OEP220, then it is not an original document. The OEP220 (EP90) was substituted for SAE140 in postwar years to make it more compatible with other vehicles, but because of the poor sealing arrangement in Tracta housings, the EP90 is more prone to leaking than a Straight 140 oil, especially in your warmer climate. A point worth noting is that the tracta spherical challis has bronze bushings for the shaft and EP oils can effect these. The bushes are prone to wear and it is their fit that stops oil from migrating from bevel box to outer tracta and hub. Very often you will find on checking levels that the outer has too much oil in it. cheers Richard

hi Terry, I have been working on Dingos over a 34 year period and rebuilt a good few over the years. To elaborate more on the oils, I tend to err on the original spec. lubricants and fluids or a suitable modern substitute without any problems. Engine and pre-selector gearbox; SAE30 Classic / Vintage oil with low or nil detergent. Transfer box; SAE50 engine oil Bevel boxes and outer Tractas/hubs; SAE140 gear oil Brakes and shock absorbers: DOT4 brake fluid Fluid Flywheel; ISO 10 hydraulic oil The use of liquid greases in bevel boxes and hubs can mean a very slow levelling out of the lubricants when filling and their inability to flow around ball and roller bearings when cold and will still leak when hot. Any leaks on the tracta spherical housings can be avoided by careful rebuilding. Also you need to grease the drive coupling between the gearbox and transfer box very regularly using a heavy grease that will stick inside the coupling. You will not be able to drain the outer Tractas or hubs, no drain plugs and the flywheel cannot be drained without making a wholly mess, so just top it up. regards, Richard