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Richard Farrant

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Everything posted by Richard Farrant

  1. Richard Farrant
    I seem to think the twin-shaft chassis was used for armoured cars in Russia and there may be one in preservation over there. Which makes you wonder if any parts have survived as well.
  2. Richard Farrant
    There is a restored one in the Firepower museum at Woolwich if you want to take photos of one as reference.
  3. Richard Farrant
    Hi Sean, Looks like a filter element, X3 could be plant or forklifts, etc. It is a Tecalemit part number. I have hunch on this one if you can confirm the sizes, try this; Length 5.37 inches OD 2.87 inches ID 1.312 inches cheers Richard
  4. Richard Farrant
    Tim, I know you wrote this on your opening post "Anybody who says it is currently owned by TG Pine will get a slap" BUT, there is a motor engineer at Stickney, just north of Boston with that very name .... and this might tie up with Peter75's post.
  5. Richard Farrant
    They are for slinging pallets, I have several, think it might even have said that on the label on the packet.
  6. Richard Farrant
    Likely places for leaks are; Input seal, which is in the oil pump, or running gear front plate gasket. Bottom plate gasket (this plate supports the bands so requires complete strip of box) Side cover on selector side. Drain plug. Top cover gasket. Rear face gasket where box mates to transfer box. As the oil is being flung up, I would think it is from within the bell housing, so removal of tinwork in that area should reveal the source.
  7. Richard Farrant
    Check the link I sent you, if it is the correct size then it is only 6 quid.
  8. Richard Farrant
    Tony, Nearest link I can find in AC catalogue is: Wolseley - Early models, to 1949 AC34A Outside diam. 2.87" Inside diam. 1.312" Length 6.07" check these measurements on the old one to confirm This is same as some early Jaguars and here is a link; http://www.jagspares.co.uk/Manners/partdetailalternate.asp?partno=AC34A
  9. Richard Farrant
    Looking at a cross reference list in an AC Filters catalogue from 1970 and that number is not shown under Tecalemit, although some others prefixed FG are. It would help if you said what vehicle or engine it is for.
  10. Richard Farrant
    The early RL trucks had these fittings around the cupola, here is a pic of one in Malaya, coming together with a Hillman (or Singer)
  11. Richard Farrant
    The Australian ex-Military Vehicle Collectors Society were recently featured on an episode of Classic Restos while their members were taking part in a vintage vehicle event at Linnwood House. This episode has just been posted up on Channel 31 Catch Up website, click on link below: http://www.c31.org.au/schedule/view/episode/130538 Episodes normally only show on the website for 2 weeks. Enjoy the programme. Richard Farrant AMVCS newsletter editor
  12. Richard Farrant
    I will have another stab at the yellow trefoil (no.7), it is the distinguishing mark used when RASC transported POL supplies via railway, etc.
  13. Richard Farrant
    No. 7. Is this the symbol assigned to ammunition cartridges to show that it is interchangeable between different weapons?
  14. Richard Farrant
    Clive, GRP V ....... is this an Ordnance sub-depot marking for Group V; Small arms, artillery and fire control ? likewise for GRP III .... Group III Clothing, VAOS Section A1 and A2? waiting in anticipation Clover leaf symbol ........... is that something to do with food or rations?
  15. Richard Farrant
    No.2 Drive on the right ?
  16. Richard Farrant
    Hi Sean, Think off hand points are .012". To be fair the plug gap specified in 1940 book was .040" but later on it was reduced to .028" which makes more sense.
  17. Richard Farrant
    I have just gone back on this thread and saw that you have the plug gap at .040". A large plug gap is one cause of a coil overheating and the correct gap for a 28hp on normal points set up is .028"
  18. Richard Farrant
    It is from the coil to distributor and thus to earth that I was describing, if it is the type of Distributor that I described, without the link lead from its body to the block there could be a resistance. You will unlikely see any sparks though, unless you are referring to the HT side.
  19. Richard Farrant
    Another possibility that occurred to me is that some Bedfords have the distributor type where the whole body turns during the vacuum advance, In order to get a good grounding, there is an earthing lead from the distributor casing to a suitable earthing point on the engine block. If this is broken I wonder if it sets up a resistance in the Low Tension side of the coil ?
  20. Richard Farrant
    hi John, I mentioned Autosparks, here is a link to the Rebraiding service where if you make a loom up, you can have the groups of cables braided together. You make up your own harness and tape together and indicate where cable emerge from the group. http://www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php?content_page=39
  21. Richard Farrant
    John, Have you tried Autosparks? If no one has a pattern they will be unable to supply. Have you got the old harness?
  22. Richard Farrant
    Have you got the LT connections on the coil the correct way around? An OY has Negative earth so the wire from coil to distributor should be on the Neg - terminal of the coil. The feed from switch to Pos +. Something else, the coil might be for a 12v system but perhaps is designed for vehicles using a ballast resistor. Best to make absolutely sure.
  23. Richard Farrant
    Only info is from odd references here and there. Another thought, some were driven off the vehicle PTO. Take a look at the transfer box and see if it has a PTO output on it. The PTO output was only fitted to vehicles requiring it, so this might prove a point.
  24. Richard Farrant
    Not sure about a flat twin engine, but early ones with Butterfield tanks had a 3hp Bradford engine, a horizontal single if I recall. Then the later QL refueller with Zwicky equipment had a Stuart Turner P5XC engine driving two fuel pumps via a worm reduction box.
  25. Richard Farrant
    James, The most obvious and basic way to ascertain if there is a spark is to pull a plug out, re-attach it to a lead and lay the plug on a nearby part of engine with no paint on. Spin it over and see if plug is sparking. Then go from there if it is not.
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