Tony B

Mark go all the way to Belgium for STELLA!! What about Palm, my favourite, Jupiter, Passendale's own brew I can't remember the rest of the alphabet. Pommier which apple and pear and a great cold drink. Or if you really want to blow the brain Hummel. One problem is if you but beer in bottles and a crate you will pay a deposit. So bring back to UK and the cost of lost deposits will be more than the beer!. fortunately Palm can be got in cans now. :-D Food i think we would agree the Belgium national food is the Chip, still can't face them with mayonnaise though. And the cakes , well every patisserie has a drain for the drool outside the windows. Of course we are going for serious historical study. There's a good cash and carry just outside, by the way, off the roundabout with the tap.

Agreed. Practicality wise bad earths are responsible for a lot of vehicle electrics. Trouble is when you stick electricerry in a vehicles a whole new world of hurts opens up. My first suggestion is to go over the control system from generator back to batteries and check the voltage at every connection and joint. Bloody tedious but can show up some bizarre problems. The problem is the voltage drops. Therefore bulb or whatever tries to compensate by taking more amperage, it only 'Knows' it wants to do the work. As the gadget can't cope with extra ampage it blows. For explanation to anyone whose baffled, Think of ampage as the amount of current, IE a gallon, not exact because an Amp is 1 Coulomb per second. If you want the definition of a Coulomb ask 'cause you really don't need it. Voltage is the pressure, say lbs per sq inch. throw a gallon of water over someone it will get them wet. Shove it through a pressure injector at 2000lbs per sq inch you can strip paint. If an Amp at 1 volt runs through a resistance of 1 ohm you get 1 watt of power. Haynes do a very good manual on auto electrics. Mechanically electrics on a vehicle are not difficult, you just need to know a few basic. Every one should carry a cheap multi meter its as important as a spanner. When God made electricity he didn't let us see it. having read it again. The extra ampage, is like trying to force more water through a pipe then it can take and bursts. I realise this is a ramble, but my physics teacher was a genius he got me to understand, I'm not.

The explanation is that Ohms law Voltage divided by ampage = restance. The more resistance, the more 'Work' the current has to do to get through, ie bad earth = more resistance. The more work the current does the greater the heat. All work in a physics sense, ie any change of energy from one state to another, ends up as heat. This results in the wire of the bulb getting to hot and blowing. It is also one reason wires overheat and burn. If the system is a 24 volt system then they should give an output of about 27/28 volt on full charge. If it's giving 30 volt I agree the system regulator is worth checking. Are they DC generated and Regulated or AC alternator, been a long time since I had anything to do with them, 30 odd years in fact, and that was mostly engines. A mechanical regulator, the springy thingy box should have an adjustment on it.

Trouble with converters is that they do slow the lenses by cutting the f stop. If you want fast subjects at a distance the only real option is bite the bullet and get a big fast telescopic lenses. Haven't any experience of this on digital cameras, but there was some good Russian lenses about a while ago.

If they keep blowing check earths. If the circuit has extra resistance in it then heat will be craeated. Very common cause of blowing bulbs.

right Joris, thats laid out the day. Trouble is anyone of the sites could take a day .

I fancy the Saxon, my entry for the most pug ugly MV ever built, or one of the armoured patrol vehicles, what make were they?

Ass (aka Donkey, far east term) Bulloucks as draught animals. Camel single hump (Dromadary) Donkey (European term) Elephant Jennet (Pony stallion/ donkey mare) Mule (Donkey stallion/pony mare) Pony dogs for various purposes. The Indian army has the worlds largest mule stud.

The REAL thing is being repeated on BBC 7 radio on Thursdays, or listen agin. Still funny after all these years.

Someone has to go there, if only to turn the light out. :evil: Enjoy don't forget the carrots. (Crapaud's rule) If you must, look at the CIOS web site.

prices and booking are liable to go up on the lead up to Xmas. Are we looking New year? Best fares seem to be around February March, just before Easter. would be a nice start to the season. Next year is the 90th anniversary of the Armistace for the Great War, so may be a lot going on.

Thanks for the clarification.

Typical :roll: let one of us near it , it breacks.

I still think my answer was more fun :cry: Does that mean the braziers were just that? Must have been fun when the wind blew. Got to ask what was the officers one like?

Trouble is will they come under 'Realistic firearm Replicas.

No bloody chance in London. The nutter is in full flight about Defence Eqipment fairs at the Lonon Convention Centre at the moment. I'm waiting for him to ban the colour green.

Auto focus on Canon can be awkward for fast moving subjects. Switch it off and use the smallest possible aperture for the light, that will give greatest depth of feild. The websites for the equipment give a lot of help.

Have just read the box. The blue stuff is Ethylene Glycol suitable for all engines. The standard is BS6850. 25%-8c 33% -12c 50% -25c.

Thanks for that. Hopefully I won't need such things but always useful to have the tip.

I'm trying to find the top cap of a WC51 master cylinder. I want to drill the top for a pressure bleeder. I've tried 1/2 inch BSP fittings, to small. the plug is about 1 1/8 inch across. I'm going to see if I can get a bigger fitting, does anyone know of a commercial available plastic plug that may do the trick? I haven't got access to a lathe unfortunately so can't cut one.

The blue is Ethanol based, don't know about pink never seen it. A tip, all the manuals say 'Use rain water'. If like me the water in your area is so hard you can eat it, worth buying disttiled water to add to anti freeze. I always use 50/50 summer and winter, helps summer cooling, and change every 2 years. i would also advise add a bottle of K Bar. this helps prevent rust and seals any little quirks.

Parachute of tent drying? Unless it is a framework for a Q site fire box. If I remember they were called starfish sites.

That K seal sounds useful stuff. I use K Bar as a conditioner in all my kit with the antifreeze change. Are they made by the same people?

If only all problems were that easy. Trouble is what happens when anti freeze is added? Does anyone know of somwhere that still stitches Cast iron blocks. Only ever seen it once years ago. the process consits of drilling into the crack then adding a set of threaded studs.