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timbo

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Everything posted by timbo

  1. The mineral oil seals seem to be a bit less 'rubbery' if there is such a word. All the ones i have seen so far seem to be a light green colour to differentiate them i presume. They are also a pig to fit hence need to be soaked. I then found I could carefully stretch it using some small pliers and ease them over the piston. The smaller seal is not a problem. If you use the land rover seals with mineral oil they will turn to mush. Similarly if you try to use brake fluid in the cvrt brakes you will end up in a big mess...! I have now completed the rebuild of the mc so Im going to try and fit and bleed them over the weekend. Will let you know how i get on. Hope this helps. I have also had a bit of welding work done on the steering box which was starting to suffer with the dreaded corner cracking. Again i will post some pics over the weekend... Cheers Timbo
  2. For a minute there Rob I thought you were moving it to North Yorkshire, would complement that 17 pdr of yours nicely..! Tim
  3. You can also use rotary wire brushes on an angle grinder, the twisted wire type are quite effective and last reasonably well. Dont forget that primer can be porous too so dont leave it too long or you will get rust coming through...
  4. If you search on 'spartan fuel tank' you will see a very neat installation done by Robin on his Spartan, so it can be done...
  5. That was a great thread - well worth revisiting...
  6. Chris Have taken both cylinders down to bare casting. The only seals appear to be the main seal on the piston, and the smaller (non return?) seal on the end of the piston rod, both of which are included in the rebuild kit. Im going to give one of these a go in my steering brakes. Was going to put it on the main brakes but I rarely seem to use them so thought I maya as well give it a proper test..! Cheers Tim
  7. Chris Before I forget it is 90569128... I dont have any mineral oil to soak the seals at the moment, so it will take a while. Annoyingly I have an unopened 25 litre tub of ISO10 but it's on the back of my Saladin, 120 miles away..! Cheers Tim
  8. Here is a comparison of the two mc's - a new series 3 one and a very worn out CVRT one. The only discernible difference I have been able to find, apart from the seal material, is in the length of the actuating rod, which is easily sorted.
  9. Welcome to the club Andy and well done on your purchase of gods own AFV, one careful owner! I can vouch for the quality of chris' mudguard brackets, top notch.. Pm me if you wish to come for a visit anytime to have a look at my sabre (04 FD 34!). I am currently replacing the engine so happy to give you a guided tour of what to watch for if you like. Cheers Tim
  10. Hi Chris Yes saw that post - learning from others experience is always the best way! Cheers Tim
  11. Hi Vince It looks identical in every respect. I'm probably going to have a go at changing the seal in the next few days so ill let you know how I get on. Cheers Tim
  12. So I have known for a while that cvrt m/c's are superficially the same as land rover series 3 ones, but the cvrt uses mineral oil, not brake fluid. My theory is this, have bought a series 3 m/c (£15), and the piston and components look identical to cvrt. I also have a stock of seal rebuild kits for cvrt (also £15). Fit the cvrt seals to the lr mc, and hey presto you have a new mc for £30 (compared to the £80-£120 which seems to be the going rate for cvrt ones). Any thoughts? Am I missing something here? Cheers Tim
  13. I dont know about operational mods but have you thought about trying WaterWetter. Never used it in an mv but have used it in racing motorcycles with some success. Cooling is not usually something we have to worry about in the uk!
  14. Hi Bruce If you decide to do the conversion can I have first dibs on the front bins and indicators please!? Cheers Tim
  15. Excellent news glad youre still going at it.. Sirhc and I were looking at Andy B's diesel Scorpion (yes you heard right!) yesterday, which he completed in two weeks from a bare hull in a field....BUT he started with a diesel Scimitar hull so probably a bit easier. Cheers Timbo
  16. You got all that from that label?! Remarkable...!
  17. Symptoms? Assuming all of the above are ok try a squirt of brake cleaner in the carb...?
  18. As I understood it there has been at least one incident where fatalities have occurred due to a vehicle travelling at speed over an IED, with the subsequent blast causing the vehicle to be flipped forwards.. You have to wonder how much more stuff they can go on adding to these vehicles though! As I have mentioned in other threads all the extra weight has caused problems with handbrakes slipping (which are basically comprised of brake bands gripping the main discs). This has been rectified in the short term by fitting Stormer handbrake mechanisms (more leverage), but a more permanent fix is now being sought, doing away with the brake bands altogether. In the trinity of firepower, protection and mobility, CVRT's were probably always a bit too biased towards mobility so I guess they are now redressing the balance somewhat..
  19. Bob I think what he means is that to us young whippersnappers (long time since i called myself that!), you are something of a legend in this fine hobby of ours, and therefore it would be only natural for you to have access to whatever mv you wanted ! Cheers Timbo
  20. Nice work Chris looking forward to hearing it running.. Anorak question no 21 in a series of 250....is that a diesel pulley on the alternator? Bit hard to tell from the pics.. Cheers Tim
  21. Hi Kevin Bit of an aside...but I have just purchased The Black Bull by Patrick Delaforce, bargain at £7.99 from the discount bookshop - looking forward to a good read. Cheers Timbo
  22. Lovely And I never knew the turret bins were supposed to be quick release...not sure why exactly...
  23. Made me chuckle, and reminiscent of a few 'wrong gear' driving experiences in CVRT..!!
  24. Nice looking vehicle, looks like a lot of fun!
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