deadline

Torque for head bolts is 70ft/lbs Please see: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/237.pdf The valves are adjusted to INTAKE .012 EXHAUST .016 with the engine HOT (above 160F). Please see: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/229.pdf Engine must be running.. I guess you can do it with it off if you index the valves, but the special tool makes doing it at idle very simple. Also, 'Degsy' is referring to the crankcase ventilator. I do not believe it is simply a steel ball and spring. Its actually a metered orifice. There is a GM Service Bulletin that talks about it. And not all motors have it. Its should be on the top of the valve cover and run run into the intake manifold casting. Please see: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/242.pdf You can download a FREE copy of TM9-801 from: http://www.tm9-801.com/tm9-801/index.php Or I have an online version for searching: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/searchfiles.php

That looks like it should have a shop van body on it. Your gas tank and spare tire carrier are shop van style. Nice truck.

Wear on the shifter is a common problem. I just ran a bead of weld on it and contoured it with the grinder. Typically the worn shaft will cause problems with two gears... depending on which end of the shifter is worn... Rev and 2nd, 1 and 3rd as the tip would wear down. There could be other issues that might be looked at if repairing/replacing the shifter does not correct it: Interlock pin (dirt, wear) Detent ball/sprint (dirt/wear) Shifter plate (wear) Shifter rail (bent, burr) Most T84 issues are about not being able to shift INTO a gear (worn synchros)

A weld would be unacceptable to me for a restored vehicle. Plus if you tried to recoup your expenses by selling a few, I think most would see it that way also. M35 beds in the US can be had for $300-$500. Less than the cost of the steel. I sold the bed that came with my CCKW (it was the less common drop side bed) for $200 about 2 years ago. A steel CCKW bed, in poor condition can go for $750-1000, in good shape with all the parts, $2000-$2500. While this link is for a Chevy cargo bed construction.. its still interesting: http://public.fotki.com/dachoppa/buildi ... cargo-bed/

May not help you but all of the larger American MB/GPW jeep dealers (and many CJ parts vendors) have them. A jack and a lug wrench is about $100 US. I think the jacks are made by OMIX-ADA. Other than the base stamping they are identical to post war CJ jacks.

What is the part number? Standard jeeps used a regular forged one piece starting handle... they still make identical repro's today. Only reason I can see why it would be cut would be to put in a glove box/tool box in a jeep. Maybe the specific jeep had a bad starter and the driver needed to get to it all the time... and instead of stowing it behind the rear seat made a 'duffel bag cut' to stow it in one of the tool/glove boxes.

You know a fabricator with a 14ft press brake? I've looked all over the states and most top out at 12 ft. There are some that have 16ft brakes but then you have to ship parts around the country. In the US making a bed is a non-starter. Standard sheet metal is not long enough (standard size is 4x8) longer lengths needed to come off a coil and be cut and ordering special length was to expensive. If you do get one made, please post pics.

Its much later than the 40's... I would say 60's. Its NOT: M211 M135 M35 My guess is M-52.. The fenders are way to wide to be an M35. It had a winch (the story goes that the headlights were in the 'upper' holes when a winch was installed to clear the bumper). Also the BO driving light under the right headlight makes it a tactical vehicle of some sort.

I am still going to lean towards a post war repaint. Data plates look like they are held in with pop rivets. If that's the case then at some point they were removed... possibly the entire truck was chemically stripped (dipped) and repainted to a customers color of choice. When I got my CCKW it was (in order top layer to bottom) red, yellow, silver, OD. Even in the cab under the driver seat has that same color patters.. so when they repaint them, its not a cheap $200 MAACO weekend special.

Picture of decal has been posted!! http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=503

Without Red Oxide Primer being the first coat of paint (check places like the brake backing plate) I would have to agree that its a repaint. Some places to check would be areas line the inside of doors and the window channels, small concealed areas that would be a bugger to strip to bare metal or where two painted parts are mated. I have the early TM that covers that truck.. I will look up to see what the body was. Some trucks did leave the factory body-less, but if there is a body style on the frame rail with the SN then I would go with that. The only Army Air Corps vehicles that might fit that color scheme would be the taxi vehicles that are painted bright colors (checkerboard is popular).. in 1942 the Air Corps was still very much OD, and used standard Army vehicles. As far as if its a replacement frame, you would have to match up the frame SN rage with a type of truck and start seeing what matches. Is the engine the right model? Do the fenders have the additional supports or not? Is the grill Symmetrical? etc.

A fellow CCKW owner has sent me pictures of an oil pan decal. I will post a pic when I get his permission to do so. Will keep everyone posted or you can follow along in this thread (will update the thread first) http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=503

If you can get a jack stand under the axle without getting underneath the vehicle then you are either a midget or have 6 foot long arms. Reaching between the bogies is a dumber idea than crawling the 5 feet under the rear end and placing a stand under the spring seat. Placing jack stands under the front is somewhat easier, but still done from in front of the vehicle. You *NEVER* want to be around a tire or other 'pinch point'. Your 'from the side' statement puts you in way to much jeopardy of being hit by the frame, body part or wheel. Approaching directly in front/behind a high ground clearance vehicle like a CCKW is the safest way. Next time you get the chance.. crawl under your CCKW from the front or rear to the axle and see how much room you have. Then, try to reach that same position from the side. Note where you have to place your arms and how close your head is to nearby large metal objects. Even if a CCKW falls off the jack, there is at least 20+ inches of frame clearance. As long as you are not laying directly underneath an axle or a tire you are safe from being hit. For a jeep or modern passenger car you would be correct.. the ground clearance of my dodge is 7 inches... The sidewall of a CCKW tire it larger than that.

For the jeep most black parts are semi-gloss (air cleaner, crossover tube, oil filter, cooling fan). But unless someone digs up a TM or something its just a guess. NOS parts out of the wrapper (oil breathers, oil filters) I would call them semi-gloss. I have a generator with a 1955 depot rebuild tag on it and its a semi gloss.

Please explain.

Its in the SNL. Pg 168 and 176. There are two (early) or three (late) clamps. One on each end and later on they added one on the bell housing. Not sure when the bell housing clamp (the third one) was added, But late 42's did not have it. IIRC if you have an internal type brake, then you need the clamp on the bell housing. As for routing it goes under the transfer case, but over the cross member. You'll see the passage when you look for it.

I may just add the early war decal on the same sheet as the mid/late war.... since the lid decal is the same. It would be cheaper long run because it would save a screen setup fee and most places don't seem to care about how many decals per sheet, just total sheet count. Do you have any idea of the size, text or color? I can kinda figure it out, but it would be good to have an original to get it as close as possible.

This is my second request to the many fine folks on HMVF. I am searching for an image of the caution decal attached to the UPPER oil pan of the two piece deep sump oil pan. From the GMC TB I have determined the location and text: Two decals, one on each side of the UPPER oil pan. The verbiage: "CAUTION - remove lower oil pan and disconnect pump intake before removing screws from the upper oil pan" More info is available here: http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=503 Any leads, pictures, hand drawings would be appreciated.

Good info so far. The oil filter can is gray, the straps are black. For a factory engine you will go with GMC engine olive (available from Jim Carter Truck Parts dot com). For a depot rebuild OD will do, no decals BUT the engine type (4 digit engine number) should be in white 1 inch stencil on the rocker cover. Since the CCKW had so many different engine configurations, after rebuild they would mark them so the mechanics know what engine type they had to order parts, all accessories are black (oil filter included). Its amazing.. 4 years ago this info was had to find.. now its out there for all to use. Good things are happening in the CCKW community!! Hopefully be the end of March I will have all of the decals for a factory engine. The deep sump oil pan decal is the last hold out.

SOme paint info is here: http://www.armyjeepparts.com click on GCI paint AJP WWII SEMI-GLOSS, Late 1944 thru 1957 A true O.D., AJP had this color matched from early NOS parts. Most representative of what a jeep was painted.This is our most popular color. Late 44' thru 45' MB's M38, M38A1, M170, M-37 Plus all Korean equipment 319 WWII, LUSTERLESS / FLAT 1941-1944 Light O.D. MB I used 319 on my jeep and it looks like every other jeep I see. All army vehicles would have used the same paint specs, so iff it works for a jeep, it works for a CCKW/M4 etc

Oil filter lid and body decal artwork has been received from the artist. Will need to tweak on it a little as the font and the letter spacing is slightly off from the original. Should be getting quotes from printers shortly.

There are currently no G508 parts catalogs on line (other than to purchase as a CD). I am working on one (similar to the TM9 search feature on http://www.tm9-801.com). You might have luck using NSN or even the older FSC (NSNs are sometimes FSCs with filler digits). This is the NSN lookup site: http://www.dlis.dla.mil/webflis/pub/pub_search.aspx I would venture that any non-US made part would be post war, made under contract. I have a set of split axles made in France under license from Bendix. I don't know how many CCKWs were given to British Forces post war.. the original trucks from lend-lease were very, very early CCW/AFKWs etc.

They are a back burner item right now. Since they are relatively simple compared to the later oval style, I don't see any major hassles in adding them later on. Some astute members on the TM9 forum have pointed out the the font is off (several letters are different) but short of commissioning the entire alphabet to be redone in the proper lettering we will have to stick with Arial as the font. Hint: the Arial font was designed in 1982 by Microsoft... so its not the original font used by AC in the 40's. ALL the repro AC decals use it.. its quite easy to spot when you know the 'key' letters and the differences. I may modify the Arial fonts... will have to see how difficult it gets.

i have that book.. very good reference indeed. The oil filter decals are all figured out. The 43 TM9 has an excellent shot of the body, but the lid is not clear in any reference I have... a good fellow on this board has an original(!) and sent me pictures. I have all the pics and the artwork here http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=488 The air cleaner is still a complete guess. I am 60% sure I have found the proper one, but until an air cleaner or picture shows up its still a 'best guess'. I posted the text of the oil sump decal. Its a few posts back. The GM Service bulletin gives the exact text, and location, but no picture of what it looks like. Best I have seen is just a rectangle. I may interpolate a decal from the oil breather decal and air filter decal, as they are both very similar. But hopes are that a picture of an original is lurking somewhere... just waiting to be found. I will update this site, but the most up to date into is going to be in that link above.

I do not believe the fender mount was standard.. it was moved there to free up space most likely. My 42 (of unknown lineage, but I was told I am only the third owner) has mounting holes on the drivers side fender.