deadline

From the factory I believe the extinguisher went up under the dash, like the first aid kits. Don't quote me on that though... www.jeepdraw.com would have that kind of info. But in the field they were frequently moved to the drivers fender, or any other out of the way location. Jerry cans were also fitted all over. The rear panel, on the fender step, lashed to the bumper/grill, across the hood etc etc etc. IIRC mid/late 42 was when the rear mounted gas can holder was installed. A few months later the reinforcing kit was added because the rear panel was cracking due to the weight/vibration.

Most people don't seem to reduce the price if it doesn't work. They post for 'retail' and disclaim 'may or may not work'. A guaranteed working unit would most likely have a premium on it... as would a COMPLETE unit. One thing to watch for is the BC-1306 was made post war by the French. I've seen them marked in Russian, French etc. So make sure that you are getting a USGI WWII unit if you are paying top Dollar/Pound/Euro. Other than markings (open the case, if its not in English it post war) I really don't think they are different. The BC-1000 also has post war units. Some may just be repainted, others built under license.

I looked into a 1306 for my jeep a few years ago. The price has remained fairly level, but the vibrator (power supply) and the mounting brackets for both the radio and the vibrator were the most difficult to find. If it IS a PE-237 (not a DY-88 or other post war unit) get it. If it works its worth it. I don't know of anyone that repairs them, though. I do know a guy DID repro the mounts (both of them, but are spendy). Most of the times the original vibrator is broken and you end up with a post war unit. IIRC 3-4 years ago a complete kit (less the mounts) was approx $1500 US. The newly reprod brackets were another $300-400 US The hard part (for me) is finding a tech that can calibrate the units. I had so many dead ends trying to get someone to calibrate my BC-611s that I gave up. Army Radio Sales in the UK is probably the best to talk to about this: http://www.armyradio.com/arsc/customer/home.php?cat=100

Technically you have an M109. I'm still waiting for my 66 M35's paperwork to clear. You should visit www.steelsoldiers.com for all things MV (well, M-Series) Nice truck, cab looks very good. Its very popular to make sleeping quarters in the shop van.

I thought about it, most WWII MVs are 6 volts so with a current limiting resistor it should be an easy project. There are two problems. First, most of the sealed 6V lamps are designed for a specific luminance that would not work well if super-white-led-bright. Mainly the marker lights lights (the 'cat eyes') and the BO driving lights. Also the marker lights are set an a specific angle (it was described in an WWII Army Motors article) to make the distance setup work and the highly directional LED light might not work well in a BO driving light because you need that light to diffuse. Other than those two night-driving specific issues they should work fine in the Service Stop and BO stop lights. Many places do sell 'drop in' LED 'bulbs' that go right in most standard sockets. They may or may not be street legal in the US and run about $8 per 'bulb' http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fother_bulbs.htm 6 & 24VDC Single & Dual Contact 1156 (BA15S) & 1157 (BAY15D). 12 & 19-LED replacement bulbs for 6 and 24 Volt applications. NOT used for interior lighting applications in RVs, Boats, etc.

Yes, I plan of a full sheet of decals to include: Oil filter (lid and body) late oval style Oil breather Valve cover (octane and valve tappet) Air Filter HOPEFULLY - deep sump oil pan caution decal There are only 3 colors total, and I already have quotes out for proper water slip decals (not laser printed). A few things need to be arranged, but I'm hopeful that all can be agreed upon.

Most of the oil filter decal into is here: http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=488 The first round of proofs from the artist are also posted... couple of errors, should be an easy fix. I have started an air cleaner thread also. The last one is the deep sump oil pan warning decal. I have the text, but no images. My plan is to have a section detailing the decals (a separate web page with all the pertinent data). I can't thank the good folks on this site enough. Truly a helpful bunch of people.

I have both the Sept and Nov 42 Tm10-1563 and it does show the air filter decal, well, enough to get a good guess at it. Its also in the 43 TM9-801, but again, not clear enough to read it. I do think I have found it. The civvy decal has different colors, but change the orange and white to orange, black and white, clean up the AC logo in each corner and you have a winner! The details are at: http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=512 The decal is at: http://www.classicpartsusa.com/product/1940_1946_Air_cleaner_decal_DE202_1943/1943_Truck_Parts_Decals

I don't have a strain gauge on my shop gantry crane, but I after moving around a complete rear bogey unit and an engine I think the bogey assembly is heavier (tires, bogey unit, torsion bars etc). The TM9 shows only a 700lb increase for the winch models (wo/w = 10,350 w/w = 11,050). The rough math still puts you at under 3,000 lbs per corner. I guess a trip to the local scales would confirm this, but my experience is that a 3-6 ton bottle jack is fine, unless you happen to need to raise a loaded truck. I use 3 ton rated (each) jack stands: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-heavy-duty-jack-stands-38846.html I also have a poured concrete foundation in my garage, but I have jacked up an tipper on dirt and a 2x8 under the jack was more than enough to stop the jack and stands from sinking into the dirt.

I'm almost positive I have that TM. Will check it. Thank you!

I believe that is a post war civvie decal. There are currently a few on e-bay (US) and most list them as 50's-60's. The biggest issue that I can positively verify is that the cleaning interval is 1000 miles: TM9-801 April 1944 page 81 para d(1): Daily, check level and if necessary fill to level mark. Every 1,000 miles remove element and reservoir and wash all parts. Yet the decals state: "Wash Filter Element in Kerosene every 2000 miles... Also the TMs state for cleaning solvents: "Use dry-cleaning solvent, or Diesel fuel oil.." Kerosene is not mentioned. I have yet to come across a picture or TM that shows the air cleaner decal and text. Thanks for looking, I really appreciate the help.

Its more of a 'process' really. There is no single point on a CCKW to jack the entire vehicle. And putting a jack under the differential can damage a split axle (and is probably not a good idea for a banjo), so you HAVE to do under the spring seats. If you take a 12,000lb CCKW and divide by 4 corners, that leaves you with 3,000 lbs on each corner (approx) and using a 6,000lb jack give you at least a ton of extra capacity. For the cost difference of a 6 and 9/10 ton jack you might feel better with the larger capacity, but it does not give you a 'safety margin'... any jack can fail at any load. I found out that you really must use the spring seats as a lift point, most other lift points are way to high for a normal bottle jack to reach. You also need much larger (height and capacity) jack stands than used for cars.

Looks like it was NATO-ized. If you have an original engine, PLEASE post pics! There is so much that we don't know about the factory CCKW engines.. and I'm trying to piece anything I can together.

Whats an EMRS? None of the US Army TMs (TM9-1803A/B, TM9-803) list a PSI. Even TM10-1513 is mute on compression readings. Is that a civilian manual? I have hears the 105-115psi spec also, but never in writing.

20 ton jack for a CCKW? Maybe if you want all 4 corners off the ground at the same time using one jack. I refer you to the TM9-801 (April, 44) (available for free download here: http://www.tm9-801.com/tm9-801/index.php Or you can do an online search of it here: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/searchfiles.php Page 20, "On Vehicle Tools" 41-J-72 Jack, hydraulic, 3-ton, with handle .......... Tool compartment Thats all you need to work on a tire or raise one end. You are never going to see 100% of the total weight on a jack because the front/rear axles act as a pivot point and create a Class II lever, which reduces the the amount of effort required becuase it has a larger advantage than the load itself. In a pinch, a 22inch 4x4 under the axle will lift it. Its a field expedient repair.

Thats a very interesting question. Some parts were made under license. I have a set of axles made in France under license and a Type III hydrovac made in France. Both were made by Bendix under license IIRC. The Army was giving away so much material post war (and was quickly designing newer vehicles) that I don't think there was a need for a manufacturer of sheet metal (cabs, shop vans) to start production up. I don't know of any shop van features that would allow you to pinpoint a WWII production vehicle from a post war one, if they were even made. None of the GMC books mention 'French production' or 'Norwegian production' trucks. They were MODIFIED for specific purposes or civvy use, but nothing was mentioned about 'new production'. They DID re-data-plate the CCKWs for local language. I have a set of French data plates, and a Norwegian CCKW manual that show specific countries language.

There are some haphazard ways to try and determine the health of a cylinder. The best and easiest way, hands down, is with a leak down tester. Its an all in one test that can rule out valves, cylinder and rings in one shot.. and you can take all day to do it (as long as you have air). You can use a compression gauge and various potions and incantations.. that might get you close. But the ease of which a leak down test will get you the same info is so much easier and faster. I would never allow (or perform) an engine disassembly on a hunch. The costs and wasted time looking at the wrong components is just that.. a waste. On a compression thest the following things can affect the readings: valve timing, starters ability to crank engine, battery amperage/voltage. A leakdown test can be done on the entire length of the power of compression stroke (as long as the valves are closed). Proper tool for the job. In 2011 that tool is a leak down tester. I have not looked extensively, but I do not believe that the Tms for the GPW or MB even list a compression psi. Only that they are 6.5:1 compression ratio engines.

IIRC the range is like 105-115 with less than 10PSI diff from highest to lowest reading. You really need to have a LEAK DOWN test down. A compression test will tall you the compression of the cylinder, but if its low it will not tell you WHAT to fix: Rings? Valves? Cylinder? Most mechanics will simply guess at a low PSI cylinder. Why sleeve a cylinder when the valves are the problem? Any good shop should have a leakdown tester, or you can buy one (in the US they are about $30)

As stated the plate material will be the biggest factor. Brass: any store bought brass cleaner. some even say to use vinegar. Zinc: you can polish it with a rubber eraser, or any very fine polish with a cloth wheel. Data plates were etched (both copper and zinc) so you will most likely have to paint it again. My advice: DON'T CLEAN IT!!!!!!!! The NUMBER ONE reason items lose value is becuase the original finish has been removed. Firearms are one collectible where finish is everything. An original blued finish.. even when less that 50% of original is still WAY MORE COLLECTIBLE then if reblued. Most data plates are available as reproductions.... an accurate jeep reproduction data plate (brass, as on my 42 GPW) is less than $30. My originals are in a display on the wall. The repro's are on the glove box.

Not to pick nits, but they were never called 'jimmies'/'jimmy'. Civvy GMC vehicles were, but I have not found any recorded proof of them being called a jimmy during WWII. A shop truck is a basic CCKW frame that gets specialized after the cab. Making it run is no more complex than calling a parts shop and buying CCKW parts. There is a CCKW shop van (ST-5) on e-bay right now that has a coffee shop... you may want to look at that and see what they have done. There is no good reason to NOT restore a CCKW Just be realistic on how 'restored' you can go with the rare variants.

"I'm gonna bet a warm diet soda that you blew the tire due to under inflation." Its all elementary at this point... no one will really know. You risked a drive home and got bit by it. But there are way to many factors pointing to low air pressure: First: CTIS is a known culprit for low pressure. Second: your tire was low at pick up. Third: complete sidewall failure is not indicative or a puncture Fourth: the burning tire can only be caused by a heat source. A puncture will cause no heat , a low pressure tire with flexing sidewalls does. It may have been ignited by dragging, but the tire tread does not show any sign of extended dragging, it most likely rolled (from the pictures presented). Also, you stated that the truck veered left after the tire popped. That defies the laws of physics. The truck, on it own, would have either kept going straight (you had a flat on a non steer tire) or maybe pulled right (increased drag of flat on right side). So one must also question the accuracy of the incident as a whole. These points are just for the sake of discussion. I am glad you are safe, and that they truck is relatively unharmed.

First question is do you plan to restore it or simply 'make it run'? I would not even consider a shop van type becuase all you are really getting is a van body, sourcing the interior is the major hassle, and to my understanding not a practical endeavor. My comments are pertaining to a 'restoration'. VERIFY THE FRAME NUMBER! I have seen a ton of CCKWs advertised as 'rare' this n that and when you look at the frame SN its simply a CCKW salad. Make sure the SN range is appropriate to the year, and that the axle type matches, as does the with or without winch. GET THE TM. ST-5 and ST-6 van bodies have their own manuals, as do the specific body type (mechanical, electrical, optical, medical etc etc etc) If the CCKW has been through a NATO rebuild you most likely will have had things cut off and added on. A shop truck has a unique gas tank and spare tire carrier, boarding ladder, doors and windows. Make sure the wiring harness is there (to use as a pattern)... Make sure the things that are unique to the shop van are there... as finding them 'in the wild' is an uphill proposition. Mechanical issues can easily be corrected. Its just a CCKW frame at the core. Brakes, electrics, drive line are all standard CCKW parts for the majority and fixing them is not a deal breaker. I've passed over quite a few 'rare variants' (compressor trucks, fuel trucks, shop vans) simply becuase of the extremely low probability of actually finding parts like the air tools/reels, the fuel pumps/nozzels, shop tools etc). A cargo truck may not be 'sexy' but a complete, factory restored truck is. Even today the number of factory restored CCKWs is hovering at about zero.

NDTs suck at everything. The have little contact on the outer lip of the tire.. the only real contact you have is on the center rib and then that is basically a slick tire about 2 inches wide. Other than 'the look' NDTs are not that good in dry, wet, mud, snow, ice. Some have said that siping the tires helps allot, but that's a ton of work unless you feel like doing each tire by hand... wait, that's still a lot of work. There is a reason NDTs fell out of favor with the current class of Army transporters. Much as I hate to say it, I'd rather keep the NATO treads on my CCKW that move to NDTs. My M35 will probably keep NDTs unless I can get a cheaper civvy all weather tread for it. But I doubt I can get civvy tires at NDT surplus prices.

You did not PM the truck before you left. :nono: I'm gonna bet a warm diet soda that you blew the tire due to under inflation. Your own words: "It was good that the CTIS worked because it immediately pumped up the low tires." Did you manually check the tire pressure before heading out? Not trying to be all preachy but this seems like it could have been avoided. From what I have read on Steelsoldiers the CTIS is a PITA. Looks like a good truck, get that brown gook out of your brake lines and figure out if CTIS is fibb'in to you.

Easiest way to tell if you have a Military Senior/Junior filter is to look at the lid. Stamped around the flange it will clearly say 'Military Senior/Junior Oil Filter'. The S-6/S-2s did not have that. I check e-bay occasionally and there have been quite a few S-6's come up... gray paint and all.