deadline

The tranny is held firm to the crossmember by a mount (and 4 bolts)... and the transfer case also has a bolt on the crossmember.. plus the input shaft is still in the flywheel. Plus pedals and the pedal shaft... I can't see this getting you any room without taking a lot of stuff apart. I guess it would depend how much of it you have back in place.

https://www.dlbensinger.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_49&products_id=746 his seat involves cutting the wheel well. A know a few people have done his mod... not personally, though.

Its doable.. but until you get it done once its hard to explain. Biggest tip I can give you is to use the starter crank to rotate the clutch so the pressure plate fingers are out of the way. I have found a 'sweet spot' that allows me to use the finger as a lever to get the fork on the ball and behind the bearing. Hard to explain... but fiddle with it.... my very large hands can do it.

I would think it would be quite obvious.. that web site does not show the PASSENGER SEAT installed... having the passenger seat still at the 'original' angle would make the drivers side sick out.. esp if you are talking 3 inches. I was looking at the steering wheel bracket under the dash... it seems that you could re-angle the steering tube by shortening the legs of the bracket... since the tube is much longer than the seat, a small increase in angle would move the wheel 'up' and 'forward' a good bit. Oh, and in the US D.L. Bensinger sells a 'larger mans' seat. I have no idea what the difference is.. but its more expensive than the repro seat from MD Juan. I am 6'1" 280 and have looked at 'gut mods'. But I decided to eat less... more $$ for parts.

There is no modern version of the hand drawn font used in the original decals. The logo is very, very close and the font is as close as it can get without commissioning an artist to draw the font. I don't think the extra effort would be worth is as there are only 4-6 letters that are noticeably different. The printer said they can do lacquer ink water slip decals and has sent me some samples so they should be good to go. If you look at this thread I have side by side comparisons of the early round AC oil filter logo: http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=545

This is just a screen shot and the thumbnail viewer is not showing proper sizes.. but these are the first images that are going to the printer for a proof sheet. More info at: http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=546

'Whistler' is just the C model turbo... given its name because the whine it makes at speed. It is neither better or worse than any other emissions device (the turbo's add almost no HP, but were added to clean up the thick black exhaust). You will tire of the pitch... but some people get all excited over the whine. Most M35A1s were re-powered with the Multifuel engines making them A2s. Finding a 'gasser' is kinda rare. There are some cab differences, mainly the gauges. None of the M211/M135/M35A1-A2-A3 had always on 6x6. There is the early 'sprag' type transfer case.... you need a better explanation from the seller. You need to turn 6x6 off or you will tear up the drive line on hard surfaced roads. For most M35 questions go to www.steelsoldiers.com

Could it be stuff like the Germans used to defeat magnetic mines?

That PDF has some errors. Specifically the Circle around the star. The circle was always 'solid' but the 'breaks' are from the stencil... not from any specification. The yellow circle was specified for a very short time, but in 1944 the yellow circle reappeared because the chemical descant was also yellow-ish. Also the 'circle and star' was primarily used to aid identification during invasions. After the invasion, the circle was no longed 'added' to newly painted vehicles... only the vehicles used in the actual invasion. I have video of a vehicle assembly yard in France just 2 months after the Invasion and the 'National Symbol' was just the star, no circle (because the invasion was long over and normal combat operations were in effect.

I believe the A model is correct. Good call. The intake just above the spinner and the 3 bladed props. SO, whats the car they are driving?

P-51B/C with the malcom hood. If you look at the P-51 above the bonnet of the car you can see the fuselage at the rear is not level with the engines line. A D model would look like a straight line from engine to the rudder fillet with a slight bump just to the rear of the canopy. Here is a D model at roughly the same angle. Note the top line is almost straight. Lastly, note in the original picture there is no fillet at the transition of the fuselage to the rudder. That alone is a defining characteristic of the D model.... as well as the canopy.

I wouldn't think you will find many 42 models converted to air portable versions. The design went into production in early 44, so you would have registration numbers in the 260000+ range at the earliest... more likely 300,000-400,000. There are a few pics of air portables on the internet (original signal corps dated) so look at those and pick one a few 1000 off.

800+ pictures of CCKWs, and other than the war time pics not one CCKW was restored to original. I find that sad. Even the CCKWs in Museums were not proper examples of WWII production CCKWs. I find that even sadder.

Most gear boxes are simply worn out. The cast iron shell had two holes that need to be aligned and round to keep the bearings and shafts in line. Once those who bearing seats go out of round you are pretty much on borrowed time. Reproduction tranny cases are available.. but if they are MD-Juan made I wouldn't trust them farther than I could throw one.

I can only make informed guesses as to what should be on the air cleaner... the only solid lead known are the two TMs that I referenced.. they do show an air cleaner decal, and its on the lid. Its also an AC Spark Plug decal. Every other decal is an AC Spark plug, so to toss in a United decal would need to have something to support it. I do believe that they were used, but most likely on other GM products. The link I posted references M8s and M20s, as well as Chevys. I don't know anything about the carbs/air cleaners on a Chevy. Thanks again for the pics. One thing I would also like to mention.. a lot of places that have decals are simply using computers to print on a media.. they claim that they 'last longer'.. I beg to disagree as we are finding many water slide decals still in excellent shape. Water slide decals look better IMHO and they blend into the paint SOOO MUCH better.

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?13940-repro-UNITED-oil-bath-air-cleane-decal Posts repros of the same decal... I don't think they are the GMC CCKW ones. Chevy?

THANK YOU for the pics! Do you have any info on what year/model that cleaner came off of? I would like to confirm this as much as possible as your image does not match what is in the TM 10-1563 or the 43 TM9-801. The text is VERY CLOSE, and I would expect it to be an AC decal. The TMs only show a decal on the cover/lid.. I wonder if there was also a body decal?

It looks like it might be one of those early 40's vehicles that came and went as the Army tried to update/mechanize themselves. The cab is very 1930's style. If you find anything please post.

What kind of trouble? What gear(s)? The T84 is a simple device and fixes are pretty easy. There is nothing in mystery goo that will fix anything... think placebo effect more than sound mechanical repairs. And Slick50 et al have all been sued for buggering up the very mechanisms they are supposed to 'protect'.

My first post gave the clearance and TM page. You can set them cold.. then get the engine running for the proper gap.

The only reason why I "quote TM's" is because that's how the systems are designed. PVC valves (aka ventilators) can cause major headaches (poor engine performance, poor idle, poor fuel economy, sludge, etc) and GMC designed a pretty good system that has worked well. Start rerouting tubes, using parts that 'fit' instead of proper parts and then you start chasing problems that have no clear cause. People (and governments) do all kinds of wacky things to CCKWs. Vendors also give out some really bad advice from time to time. The only point of reference you have is the TM. Although I can't read it, the 1960s Norwegian CCKW TM I have still references the GM ventilator valve.. even uses the same TM pictures. How many ventilator valves have I taken apart? I'm gonna say about 9. Most were from parts trucks and most were full of crud so I screwed them back together and left them behind. Not that it means anything... you can take apart the wrong ventilator valve 9,000 times and still not know anything about the proper one. If you read the TM there is a very specific spring test you need to perform to ensure reliable ventilator valve operation. And I post the proper TM references so people can have them for their own use. Share the knowledge, you know, help someone out.

You must be seeing a foreign modification. At no time was an in-service US CCKW ever modified with an oil fill tube that accepted a breather connection as you claim. If you have a document, please post. There is also only ONE valve, GM-15433412. This is from ORD-9-SNL-G508 August 45. My ORD-8 (supply allowances from 1947) also lists this single part... it was never superseded. I can also refer you to the GMC Technical bulletin, it lists one part number. I have seen a LOT of funny do-dads and mods made by foreign governments to CCKWs given to them. The 1945 French tipper (-H1) I have ran the oil return into the bottom of the oil fill tube (it should return into the special bolt that holds the fuel pump on) and they welded a water temp probe into the steel radiator supply tube. Those wacky french. If you read a vacuum at the oil filler tube on a US CCKW then you read the gauge wrong. There is nothing inside the crankcase to create a vacuum. There is lot of blowby gasses from the pistons. These gases contain water and can cause sludge in the oil. They also pressurize the crankcase. The way the ventilator works is vacuum is provided by the intake. This draws air in from the oil breather (located on the oil fill tube) through the filter, into the crankcase, through the valve and into the intake to be burned. Otherwise, why have a filter on the oil fill tube? Who cares if you filter air that is being pushed out of the engine??? I do believe that you have seen what you claim.. but its not a GMC part, nor is it a proper CCKW ventilator setup.

You may be thinking of the jeep. That DOES have a connection from the oil fill tube to the carb air intake crossover tube.... but its a straight tube.. no valve.

NATO countries may have moved it around.. I cannot say where they put it. Initially the motors did not have any ventilation.. then it was added from the valve cover to the intake. I don't think the oil filler tube would work, as that was the air intake. The ventilator must be connected to a vacuum in order to evacuate the blowby gasses, and the oil fill tube (which also has the oil breather) would not supply any vacuum... if anything it would recirculate the blow by gasses right back into the crankcase in a loop. Please refer to this page from the TM9 http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/242.pdf There is no ball. There are two metered orifices that open depending on the pressure in the crankcase.

You will find that having the special tools make this an easy job. They can be found online with a little luck, or maybe they are more common overseas than in the US. The valve adjusting tool: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/230.pdf And wrench socket: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/237.pdf