deadline

You can turbocharge anything... but for the several thousand dollars to make a new header/exhaust, cost of the turbo and an oil line reroute you could simply put hiperf parts in it to bump the compression. Plus you just lost your brakes becuase turbo's don't allow the engine to pull much vacuum. A higher temp t-stat wouldn't do much. The basic issue is the low compression due to the 70 octane fuel source. Now a days 80-85 is standard and can handle 8 8.5 : 1 compression. Extracting more energy out of the fuel is the key. The ultimate MPG boot would be an aftermarket TBI injector. No more carb and its inefficiency. If you wanted to do something cheap in your own garage: Do a mild port job on the head increase the compression to 8:1 3 angle valve job If that doesn't get you over 120hp (up from the stock 90) nothing will. With a more efficient engine you should see about a 20-30% increase in MPG (8 x .3 = 10.4) but you will also have a much more responsive motor and better hill climbing.

How can you tell?

I think you could get up to 15mpg if you used milled front hubs and pulled an axle or two from the rears. Its a common mod for M35a2 owners to improve MPG. I would plan on 8mpg. I live in the Appalachian mountains and hills kill my MPG... so depending on where I am going I could dip down to 5 or 6. The engines are such a low compression that they really don't extract as much from the gasoline as they could. I would think that if you bumped compression up to 8 or so you would see solid mid upper teens. The 270 has lots of hi-perf parts and the block sure can take it.

The hold up was the pantone colors for the orange, red and yellow. The printer wouldn't accept anything other than a pantone number... which I understand because when I used to work as an adjuster making envelopes a customer could reject an entire shipment if the color is not exactly what they specified. There are no local printers that would help and a pantone color guide starts at $75. Not worth the expense. So we are mailing samples back and forth (they are in CA, I am in PA) and I am mailing back the approved color samples this week. Mail takes a week to get there, then they have to look it over, and mail it back etc etc etc. The end is in sight... I should have a final proof set (full approved color) in a week or so. They said they are used to this... they are one of the last shops to do lacquer based water slip decals.

A frame SN would be helpful.. The horn is possibly correct, I believe that very late jeeps had those flat type horns. A later jeep (44/45) would have a rotary light switch. But you still have a firewall mounted fuel strainer, so its not that late of jeep. Your carb is not a 536. I don't see any huge issues. Congrats.

Nothing you pour into a gearbox will ever fix anything. Slick 50 is a sham and has been sued in the US regarding their snake oil claims. Teflon requires a temp of over 500F to bond to metal parts. Teflon is not like 'little ball bearings'.. but a coating that unless bonded to a surface is completely useless. Most snake oils simply dump zinc or moly into your oil and call it a day. zinc is an effective lubricant. Also found in copious amount in products like shampoo.

1. They were never called jimmies. If you have any proof, please post.. I have found none. 2. There were several pre-heaters, mostly were used in arctic conditions (Think Alaska). They were mostly gasoline fed and caught fire frequently. A google search will prove most fruitful for pictures and information. There grill covers that were a pretty common. I *think* the tankograd CCKW book shows some arctic kit. The TM9-801 has some information regarding 'Operation under unusual conditions' page 69 para 29 and goes on for 3 or 4 pages. It mentions some specific arctic mods like a battery heater,

Ok, my English to American translator is having a bit of trouble with the description.. but I make it out there is a lose piston pin?

Unless at operating temp the rings should not be touching anything. IIRC the clearance is like .003 or something. Were you burning oil? Is the exhaust tailpipe black with soot? Bad rings will burn oil, not make noise. Seeing that your compression reading were all in the same ballpark that alone leads to no issues with the rings/valves. I HIGHLY recommend that you read this TM page: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/229.pdf Your own compression tests were: First attempt No1 135, No2 130, No3 115, No4 115, No5 120, No6 120. Second attempt No1 130, No2 120, No3 115, No4 115, No5 130, No6 120. But you did not note if you reran the test with oil in the cylinder as per the TM link. DId you rerun the compression tests after you reset the lefter gaps? Nothing you are posting is flagging a cylinder (although the low compression tests are a hint, the fact that your vacuum gauge is 'rock solid' and you are not burning oil would rule them out. If it were me, I would Plastigauge main and rod bearings (visual inspection is nice, but in conclusive). Does not really require more than taking the oil pan off. Honestly I really think its a valvetrain issue. Old mechanical lifters are noisy and need constant care.

Check that sides trunnion for wear. If the load/use took the 'spring' out of the springs then a peek at the trunnion bearings would also be a good idea. http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/463.pdf Para 211 (a) bottom of the page.

That's a negative, Ghostrider. Octane rating has nothing to do with the burn rate or energy capacity of gasoline. It is only a measure of the fuel's tendency to burn in a controlled manner, rather than exploding in an uncontrolled manner. Low octane fuels will knock or detonate at a much lower temp/pressure than higher octane fuels... that's why the compression ratio of a CCKW is like 5 or 6 to 1 while a modern engine is at least 8:1. My M35a2 is a 22:1 compression ratio. It can still burn gas, but its not recommended (due to other diesel engine limits like IP pump lubrication). As mentioned in another post.. advancing the timing will get you performance but can lead to knocking (the fuel ignites due to compression/heat rather than spark plug timing). That said... ignore trying to set the distributor for optimum performance... you want to get everything set to a known state. You may find out that one of your lifters and worn and may need to vary the gap to quiet the valve. With mechanical valvetrains there really isn't a one-size-fits-all method. You have to tweak each part. Hydraulic valves so that magically. We don't have those

Set the engine as it should be.. don't try and compensate for octane difference... the engine will run fine on the gas we have now set up for the gas they had then (gas in wwii was 70 octane... now everything is 85-87+.. much better fuel). If you want to tweak the timing... hook up the vacuum gauge and shoot for whatever setting gets you the highest vacuum reading... then back off 1-2inches (on the gauge). That should set you at optimum timing... but may need to be retarded as you drive it a little.

Just watched both vids and the vacuum guage should not be bouncing around that much... a *slight* 'vibration' like movement but you were losing 1-3+ inches. On a 6 or 8 cylinder engine the needle should not move much at idle. A 4 cylinder will bounce a bit... but a 6 or 8 not that much. Give it a good tune up. Set the gap (points and plug) retime the engine and set the valves. A big problem with jeep engines is timing chain slop/stretch.... you could have worn timing gears or a stretched chain... but I would not start unbolting things till you get to a good starting point (aka tune it up). Check the manifolds for tightness and that the exhaust flange is tight and the donut is in place. After that it gets more difficult. Here's a good vacuum guide: http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm

I'll have these available for sale shortly... printer is still proofing the layout One on each side of the upper oil pan for for two piece units.

If you look at the SNLs just about every part on a jeep has TWO part numbers... GPW-XXXXX and WO-A-XXXXXX They all interchanged, but depending on the mechanic/outfit they could have ordered Ford parts for GPWs and WO-A parts for MBs... to a mechanic that would 'sound right'... you would not order GMC parts for a Hercules engine even though both were 6 cylinder. You may get GPW parts without the script 'F' for several reasons: Poor/light/painted over stamp or simply missed. Some parts were to small to stamp, others were outsourced from for and never stamped. Post war refits.. I agree.. parts were parts. But I think most of the mix-matched parts were from when the jeeps got into civilian hands and price was the major concern... not part numbers. Jeeps didn't really hit the restoration scene till about mid/late 70s and in the 80-90s the 'factory class restoration' crazy began. Sad fact is that most jeeps are so 'over restored' that they never looked that good coming off the assembly line. 'Factory class' is really more 'I spent more money than you' class.

Rubber or steel/wood? Safest way is pertaining oil on the splines... something like KROIL. Give the hub a sharp blow using a hammer and socket (after you remove the horn button bits) and then hit it with penetrating oil. Use a steering wheel remover after you let if sit a while. You may need to repeat the oil/hammer blow for a few days to get full penetration... the capillary action of the oil should free it up. You can use heat... but not on the rubber wheel.

While this is dated, the info is correct and should be used as a guide: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/209.pdf Most likely cause is valve timing. Set the valves to .012 intake and .016 exhaust. Must be done with the engine hot and running. Yes, its fun.... and the special tool to do it makes it 1000% easier. Most people are not used to mechanical lifters and the noise of an improperly set tappet can seem like a loose pebble in the cylinder. If you have a vacuum gauge improper valve timing shows itself as pulses from the average. Say you should get a steady 19in reading... on the 'bad' valves it may drop down to 15in or so. This page explains the vacuum readings for the 270: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/228.pdf These engines are low compression... like 7:1 due to the poor quality gas in the 40's. There is no spec in the TM9, but 'over 100psi' is specified, and variance cylinder to cylinder should be no more than 10psi: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/229.pdf I'm sure there are books that list a compression... but it number itself is not critical... you want uniform numbers on all 6 tubes.

I would assume that you would have more capacity than a: Model G7113 Book Symbol NK - Cab (Tractor) but less than a: Autocar U-7144-T Tractor IIRC No 5th wheel CCKW was ever in production.

If the engine, frame and body numbers match you have a matching jeep. The SNs were stamped all during production. GIs didn't most likely didn't care about the ford stamped/marked parts... only collectors give them much attention.

'Ford Script' is typically in reference to the Ford logo (in the classic Ford script) and Willys on the tailgate of pre-mid 42 jeeps. The US Army required all manufacturers logos off military vehicles in mid-1942. Some MVs (CCKWs - which never were called Jimmy's) got away with logo'd parts till early/mid-43. The 'F-stamp' and the ford 'F' script bolts were used throughout production. The most often reason given for this being that the Army demanded the vehicles be warrantied... and Henry Ford did not want Willys parts replaced on Ford's dime... so *every* part was 'f-stamped' or had the 'F' script cast/forged on them. If your frame and tub SNs actually match and are dated to 1944 then no, you should NOT have the 'Ford' script on the tail gate but most parts will be 'F' stamped.

The battery size is Group 2. In the US 6v Group 2 batteries are $80US, I don't know if you can get a 12V group 2 due to the small size... if you do you may not have a lot of CCAs. http://www.batteriesinaflash.com/sealed-lead-acid/centennial-batteries/centennial-commercial-batteries/centennial-bci-group-2-6v-commercial-battery-625cca US Battery size chart: http://www.rtpnet.org/teaa/bcigroup.html BCI Group Number Maximum Overall Dimensions footnote Millimeters Inches L W H L W H 2 264 181 238 10 3/8 7 1/8 9 3/8

I bet his mum answers the phone

Properly done it really makes a truck look the part. Problem is that rarely is any thought given to it.

Technically the dual front wheels are specific to the 352 prime mover. That's the *only* reason why the 352 has dual tire carrier. Yes you can bolt on extra wheels to the 353, but you only have one spare.. so its really not on option unless you have access to another tire... the 352 is read to go right out of the box. That Milweb 'vert is typical of the pie in the sky dreamers that post adverts in 'Supply Line' and Military Vehicle Magazine. 'Straight from the Norwegian army CCKWs for $18,000US.. only needs a full restoration and off you go! :nut::nut::nut: They've been listed for years... The owner must of used that HORRIBLY DREADFUL CCKW book by David Doyle.... where else will you find a 'reference' with gray engines, Norwegian mods and plastic inline fuel filters and still be called 'restored'.

I just finished with the PDF and PHP kung-fu and the May 43 TM10-1562 parts manual is online. Its searchable via text search but it is heavily watermarked and locked down (you can't even print it). I plan to offer the PDF file unlocked for sale shortly.. to fund future manual purchases... so there is a method to the madness. I will have a link on the main page shortly, but the direct link is http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM10-1562/searchfiles.php