andrewroberts.1953

As other poster, I enjoy driving mine. Fast (130KPH), simple drive,superb off road, even a working heater! But somethings are a bit complex, like gearbox, diffs, ignition. But if you get a good one, and keep on top of the work you can't go wrong. Some bits are common to many VW Audi cars. Beetle bits, polo bits, golf bits, etc, so you can get most things once you have the part numbers. body parts are hard to come by, but with luck you will not need. Andy

If the public in general have access the RTA applies. If it's closed site, and it's used for events like cart racing that's ok. I checked all this out last year, as someone locally got nicked in a show site for not having insurance. He also go a warning, as he was driving back from the beer tent. He was told, if he drove any further he would be breath tested.

Clive, sorry I did not get chance to look for part number etc over the weekend. But, I seem to remember that the long studs stopped after the Mk8. It was normal for all MOD vehicles up to then, but only aption after that. So you will need to go back to an old mk8 /9 parts list. I think mine came from Blanchards, but harry my last remaining brain cell my not be fully awake! Mine were screw in, and I put a bit of thread lock on, and pained them just to make sure. I also seem to remember, a chap did nothing but LR nuts, bolts, etc. If you can find him, he will have them I would expect. The other thing I remembered, I am sure the same hub is used on the 2.6 six cylinder LWB. But again, you need a very early one. Hope that helps.

Clive, I had the same problem with a 1962 FFR Mk8. For MOD use, the studs are longer. This is to accomadate the double ended wheel nuts. If you get hold of the longer studs from MOD stock, you will find that one end has a rim around the shorter threaded end. This goes into the hub, and this is pained over to lock the stud. I can't remember were mine came from, but I will try and finf my notes. I may even have a part number, but don't hold your breath!

Some years ago locally, a little old lady caused a big problem. She had been propping here door open with a large shell, brought back by someone from the first world war. The problem came, when an OED officer on leave walked past. He realised it was a live round, and had the whole road closed. Latter that day, a very large bang on the local beech and a large hole in the sand ended the incident. We also had a couple stopped on a motor bike, on the main A38 near Plymouth. The plod was unhappy, as the pillon had a very large burgan which was moving about a lot. The bag was inspected, as it seems very heavy. Several live 3" rounds were found, which had been removed from the live fire range on dartmoor! The road was closed for many hours, and the OED decided to blow them up by the road as the rounds were in such bad condition.

Here is an ebay listing for a load of parts. http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.militaerfahrzeugforum.de%2F&langpair=de%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=%2Flanguage_tools

G7BAV (been all valved), joining the net. I manage about 10 hours a year, mainly at events I take the FFR etc. As the job is radio and electronics, I get to play with lots of kit and get paid. So I don't tend to want to when I get home. Are you thinking of an HMVF net?

A few points about Satnav in MVs. Use a good connection DIRECT to battery, or even better use a rechargable satnav. Older vehicles can have very high electrical noise, and wide supply voltages. Keep the unit out of hot, wet, high vibration locations. Make sure the unit is easy to see, and operate but not in the way of your vision. As the signal from the sats are very small, use an external antenna. The signal getting to you is like amount of heat felt on earth, from 3 two bar electric fires on the moon. Less than 100th of a 100000th of a watt! So wet canvas, steel, ali, wet leaves, camo nets, etc will all stop the signal. Place as high and clear as you can get, as some sats are low on the horizon. If you have a high noise vehicle (don't we all), plug a speaker into the Satnav and have it close to your ear. Don't be tempted to use an earphone. In 24 volt vehicles, use a proper dropper. Tapping 12 volt from one battery can produce a nice electric fire!

Hi, if you can give me the number on the plate on the engine side of the bulkhead (startes 038). I will pass on to chap in Germany, who will provide history and letter to date etc. This should ensure DVLA gets it right.

Yes, aux gen. The main gen will not be large enough for the full load when all the electrical systems are turned on. This is more of a problem in vehicles with electric turrets, powerful radios, etc.

Hi, sounds good. Not heard from your father, is he ok? Still trying to find a servicable rad for you, but i am working away a lot. back this week, so will try and sort something out.

We had to do something like this a few years ago. not on a vehicle, but on some very specical plant. The bit was cleaned with a solvent, sprayed with a dye, wiped very gently, and exposed to UV light. Hey presto, all the info we needed. Have a look for a None Destructive Testing company near you. I have also seen this done with ultrasound units, and picture showing the number, whatever people were trying to find.

Some 19 sets were modified for ham radio use in the 1950s-1970s. Also some were modified for comercial use, for export. If it's been made to work on 230 volt, it's be moded for ham radio use. Have a look at the VMARS website, it has a load of info. For my sins, one of my first jobs in REME was repair of WS19! And as someone has already said, the Canadian and american sets were well made, but the sets made by Pye/Philips were a mess. Over 250, 000 19 sets made. Most were built by people at home, as out workers for Pye etc. In service from about 1936, and ended in TA service in about 1978.

Here is a bit of a document from a goverment department. It's about providing assistance to drivers, to reduce accidents. it is hope to put all of these into new vehicles in the future. Could be interesting, if we have to try and retro-fit them to our older vehicles! Examples of the type of uses that these vehicle based devices can provide is listed in the table below. Cooperative Collision Warning Cooperative collision warning collects surrounding vehicle locations and dynamics and warns the driver when a collision is likely. Approaching Emergency Vehicle Warning This application provides the driver a warning to yield the right of way to an approaching emergency vehicle. Road Condition Warning Road condition warning is used to provide warning messages to nearby vehicles when the road surface is icy, or when traction is otherwise reduced. Wrong Way Driver Warning This application warns drivers that a vehicle is driving or about to drive against the flow of traffic. Emergency Electronic Brake Lights When a vehicle brakes hard, the Emergency Electronic Brake light application sends a message to other vehicles following behind. Right Turn Assistant The Right Turn Assistant application provides information to drivers about oncoming traffic to help them make a right turn at a signalised intersection without a phasing right turn arrow. Curve Speed Warning Curve speed warning aids the driver in negotiating curves at appropriate speeds. Vehicle‑Based Road Condition Warning This in‑vehicle application will detect marginal road conditions using on‑board systems and sensors (e.g. stability control, ABS), and transmit a road condition warning, if required, to other vehicles via broadcast. Lane Change Warning This application provides a warning to the driver if an intended lane change may cause a crash with a nearby vehicle. Highway Merge Assistant This application warns a vehicle on a highway on‑ramp if another vehicle is in its merge path (and possibly in its blind spot). Cooperative Glare Reduction This application uses C2C‑C to allow a vehicle to automatically switch from high‑beams to low‑beams when trailing another vehicle. Intelligent Intersection Control Alerts driver to other vehicles at intersections.

Yes, the MOD bought large numbers of Morris 1000 for bomb disposal units, etc. and like rocking horse poo! If it's not kept now, it will be gone in the future. This why we see so few just post 45 british vehicles, no-one thought these were worth keeping. Bedford supplied 10's of thousends of RL's, again were are these vehicles? Most have been scrapped, but several generations of men spent many hours in them. Military vehicles are not all olive drab, with a white star on. How about the special cars used by covert units in NI, not worth keeping, not a military vehicle? The modern white RAF police motor bikes that escorted nuclear weapons? If it served, no matter how it's military and needs to be preserved.

The RHA's guns date back to pre 1914, and of course still in use most days of the year.

Ok, I will look around and see what I can find. Don't hold your breath for an original tempreture gauge, like the rocking horse sh1t1 If he can get them to me, I may be able to refirb. Get hime to give me a ring, and I will see what I can do. I have PM'ed you about some other bits.

Hi, yes both are the same, differant badge. MOD bought a few, with modifications for testing. But the land Rover won out in the end. Some of the Gypsies I seem to recall had rubber (Molton ltd) springs. I did have a mountain rescuce ambulance, Ex-RAF for a while. I seem to recall, the half shafts were a bit on the thin side. but the engine and gearbox were of the brick outhouse proportions!

This is in effect electro plating. In most cases you will produce cyanide, which of course will kill people very quickly. many years ago, I did see a kit for copper plating bits of cars at home to stop rust. it did not work, as unless you get all the ferrous oxide (rust) off you can't get any plating to stay on. We do this sort of thing in work, but the items are cleaned in a very strong acid etc before it works. This is not something to try at home.

Looks very much like early Landrover.

Will Looks like your father is doing very well. No problem with giving him my phone number etc, happy to help him. I have tried to get into my account on this site, but can't. So I will do your friend request as soon as I can get in.

Mark Here is a link for tail lights, 200244429162 or 130228945181 or lens 200258666579. A quick warning, don't strip the engine unless it's dead or seized. You can't take the crankshaft off, unless you have a very large press and jigs. As the bottom end bearings, are needle rollers you can't change them and should never need to. You also need special tools to put the pistons back in, so don't take them out unless you really have to. Also the bottom end must be gas tight, which includes the bell housing. Have fun Andy

Hi, can you give me some details. I will see if it's someone I know. If not, I will see if we can add them to our number, or however buys them. How are you doing with your/ your dads MUNGA?

Over the weekend, a jeep was in a road traffic accident in here in Devon. it was struck from behind on a slow road, on a nice sunny day, in full daylight. both the driver and the passenger were very badly hurt. Both had to be flown to hospital, and have very extensive injuries. we all drive slow (by modern standards) vehicles, which are painted to make them as invisable as possible. We also wear clothes which are designed to blend into the background. As we were told on driver training; "Turn your lights on for every journey, be seen and be safe". And please carry and wear a hi-vis jacket if you get out on a road or layby. I have seen a couple of near fatal accidents were someone camo clad was run over in a layby!

Sisu Been asking about, but no handbooks in english at the moment. How is your dutch, as some manuals may be available? The antennas you have, should have a srping base which is covered in rubber. The antenna can then be angled as you wish. However, at VHF any antenna which is not vertical will reduce the range a lot. The energy comes off the antenna at right angles, so you can see that you will talking to worms and birds! If you get a licence in almost any EU country, you can use your kit in UK. You don't need to ask permission, so long as you keep to the UK regulations. Keep your antennas away from engine and ABS electronics in the car. When we fitted high power radios to police rangerovers many years ago, the brakes and engine management systems did some very odd things! I don't know about Finland, but in some EU countries fitting none CE or CA marked radios invalidates the type approval of the vehicle. I will keep looking for info for you in english.