andrewroberts.1953

my biggest objection, is to channel four saying that this providing new data! The RAF/ Luftwaffe had lots of data on what bombs did. It just seems like talking up someting, which is really not really something new. As i live in Plymouth, I can confirm the amount of damage done by bombing. Almost 90% of all housing in Plymouth was made unusable. An area about 1.5 miles x a little over that was layed waste, which was the centre of Plymouth. This pre-war was a maze of small streets, and photos show not one brick left on top of another. I had a quick look in a 1950's RE manual, and 50 Kg bomb dropped from 15, 000 feet will go about 20 feet into the ground. That is if it's a dud!

A quick bit of maths! A 50 Kg bomb falling from 20, 000 feet will hit the ground at 806 feet per sec. If the fuse operates and the bomb detonates in 1 milli sec, the bomb will be about .8 of a foot into the ground. This assumes the bomb falls from a fixed object, and so has no forward motion. This of course is impossible, and so the bomb will in fact hit the ground at an angle. This will allow the bomb to detonate, at a depth which is in fact related to aircraft speed and height. I have seen a nice table produced by the RAF in the 30's wich allows you to select depth before detonation. I have also read an RE handbook, which shows how most damage caused to building is ground shock. If channel 4 can't let off a 100kg, what are going to try for the V2! And I would doubt that the original expolsives for that!

What a pity with all the work of building houses, the programme got it wrong. Interwar houses were not built on large contrete bases, but shallow footings. The "bombs" used in the programme, were denotaed as air burst. Less that 1% of german boms were this type, and these were only just less that half a metre above ground. A bomb falling from a plane reaches a fixed speed, and fuses take a finite time to operate. So WW2 bombs detonated in the ground for part of their length, and part above. This produces a ground shock wave (which is why houses built on large contrete bases behave differantly), and the blast is ground up to high angles with a litle at low angle. This was well known, as is shown in the 1940's manuals. I can understand that the MOD did not want to blow up their concrete base, but Channel 4 are not doing what it said it would.

Hi, still have mine here in Devon.

Yes, one of the three German vehicles that was trialed. I will try and find a copy of the report, but only MUNGA was running at the end. All the others, including Jeep, and Land Rover were U/S.

Yes, it's still in the car park. But, it does get lots of bad publicity. Which is a real shame.

MOT'ed at the moment, but fulltime 4 wheel drive is the MUNGA. I have had problems even getting this MOT'ed as can't be placed of rooling road, and some testers will not drive.

Hi Tim In Plymouth. Two Mk 8 Rovers, one GS other FFR. Munga, and Iltis. Hope to see you around.

Maplin have a solar panel charger for 12 volts, at under £10 at the moment. I have used them for some years, and keep batteries charged over the winter to problems. No mains required, and no running costs.

Mary had a little lamb, she also had a hatchet. And now she's got a sheepskin coat, and pair of gloves to match it.

Thye French should have loads to dispose of soon, but may not allow sale within EU. These will of course be the P3.

The local RM dept, got rid of loads a few years ago. But all were cut in half at least, many were in many bits. Some have turned up, but very hard to come by these days. Pity, as really good boats, and ideal for the job.

Does not look like "normal" spade fixing for MUNGA 4. Looks more like MUNGA 6. The MUNGA 4 spade (no t on handle) is fitted inside of the drivers side, and has a rubber strap. I will try and get a photo for you. The bit the metal part of spade, goes into a metal loop. This is welded to the body.

1085 Kg, ready for road. Pushing is a problem, as you have to turn all that four wheel drive running gear! If only one wheel brake is binding slightly, it's amplified by 4. This is why the MUNGA brakes are not bigger, and why not having the prop connected is a very bad idea! Paint is looking good, and the body is like new from the photos. Put a coat of underseal on the battery shelves, before the matt green. The original finish should be almost eggshell, with a sheen to it.

Brake slave kits are about £5 each. Don't forget that you must have all four wheels off the ground at the same time, as no central diff fitted. Don't try and take the shafts out of the carriers, or take the drive hubs off. You need a special puller, and it's easy to put it back wrong without the handbook. if you don't have a handbook, pm me. Numbers on canavs, are normaly the "local" vehicle number. That is the number given to a vehicle by the user unit, not a reg number. Don't be fooled by the front king pins etc (same as back, just not used), as unless you have pumped lots of greese in these feel very slack. If these are bad change them with the back ones, or replace the sleeves.

The boots can be had from the German dealers for not too much money, as are the head gaskets. I find people bit over the top on Ebay for MUNGA bits in the UK. I would be very suprised if you can't get a MUNGA engine to run well, the hard part is the ignition timing. There is a trick, and I will send you the details if you can pm me your postal address. Most 4 stroke engines are not much good for conversions, but the Ford V4 works well. But due to the weight, the steering is not as good.

That's a bit steep, even if it had a DKW engine. It looks a bit rough for that sort of money.

Yes, cup is for oil. The NATO trailer plug is common to all NATO forces, and is the same for 12/24 volts. The tank cap may have been put on to replace a damaged one, and not for a pre-mix. The other way to find out, is take the woden cover off the petrol tank inside of the MUNGA. Is you look at each end, you should see the access plates for the paddel.

Phil Almost all MUNGAs in UK were imported in a block from Holland, which were ex-Dutch. But many spares were imported, which were for German MUNGAs. The joints on the axles are only used on the MUNGA, and not normal UJs. But you must make sure that all the tyres are the same size. Jack each corner up, get a tape and measure round each tyres. All must be not more that 1 to 1 1/2 inches differant from each other. The MUNGA is very strong, but water sitting in the body is the main problem. Paint should be NATO semi matt green, and all came from factory like that. The bit that's in the middle of the steering wheel is the horn push, which I may have a spare of. Speed on road, max about 60 MPH! But that is like traveling at the speed of light, and not for faint harted! Off road, in low box you can with four up you get up 60 degree banks. But expent to be stopped by the police, and "AUDI" owners. The police will be curious, and will want a ride. The "AUDI" owners will moan about the badge. It's VW that took over Auto Union (who built the MUNGA) that took the 4 rings badge and used it for AUDI.

Phil You find that past owners have tried to make Dutch MUNGAs, into German army ones. So you may have bits of both fitted, but just means you need to premix fuel. And the MUST, stir the tank each day before use. You should find a bit of steel wire on the inside of the filler cap, which you need to pull gently. On the bottom of this in the tank, is a paddle with a spring. You need to do 15-20 pulls, to mix the petrol/oil mix. With modern oils, you can get away with 45-50 to 1 mix. But don't push the engine too much, if you do that. You will find when you drive, you need lots of revs. It sounds very crazy frog, but that's normal. Once the ngine is warm, the exhaust should not be tto smokey. The other things with driving the MUNGA, is that due to the 4 wheel drive system. If you do tight turns, it "feels" like the brakes are binding. It's just that with no central diff, it can't get around tight unless the tyres skid a bit. Once you are ready, send me a "wish list" of parts required. I will try and see what can be found.

Hi,Phil. Your Munga is ex-dutch, 1963. It should have an oil tank on the exhast side of the engine, which has a metering pump fitted to it. So if it works, you don't need to do the 40:1 mix in the petrol tank. Do you have a handbook, or any other tech info? If not get in touch, and I will see can be done to get that to you. You can ring me on 01752 323841 days, or 01752 481189 evening weekends. Don't be temped to take the engine apart, as you need special jigs to get it back together. And you lack of pedal, was probably in fact an airlock! The MUNGA brakes, can do this if you are not careful. Also make sure that EP types oils have NOT been used in any part of the vehicle. as it will eat the bronze parts of the gearbox etc. You must use only SAE none ep type oils.

lots of WW2 radios etc, had this sort of paint on the front panel. The 62 set being a prime example, but anything which can be luminised with ultraviolet light is the same. We had lots of these to re-work, and in the end new panels were made as the hazards were so high. The whole lot was put in think wall steel boxes, and put on a truck and sent to Drigg. We also has a couple of compass's which had a glass smashed. The chap who was working with them was taken to hospital, his nose was scrubbed out, he was scrubbed top to toe with high pressuse water, and give a whole body radioation check. The bench he was working on was dismantaled in a tent, with guys in full suits. And again, the whole lot was sent to Drigg. Radium paint is bl**dy awful stuff, but safe as long as you leave it alone. and you keep it at a reasonable distance.

I await a return visit to hospital for more surgery, but may not be till new year. But my mother has just had a heart attack, so rushing about tryto visit her and sort things out. Hope your dad, is much better. Hope that the progress is helping him, and giveing him a lift. If all else fails, get your dash bits to me and I will reburb for you. I may need a nice little light job to keep me indoors!

Hi, I am working on your shopping list. May now be very close to brand new canvas items for the MUNGA.

The date on the plate will be correct, as it's will have been issued by the German DVLA. I have found lots of poor info from the DKW club in UK, the MUNGA is a bit of a closed book to them it seems.