ferrettkitt

I suspect that I might know who you are talking about tall chap

I did try and persuade you buy some of my tat but you wouldn't jump on the hook

I've been to Malvern today selling some my surplus items (cleared loft and the like). I have the impression that both Stoneleigh and Malvern cater more for re-enactors than those selling vehicle spares. Its just an impression I'd like to be shot down on this one but I don't think that Stoneleigh is as good as it used to be

I'll be there emptying the house, shed, garage and where ever else I'm hiding my stuff away from the missus

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saunders-Roe_SR.A/1 One of the engines was used in Bluebird that crashed on Coniston Water Water in which Donald Campbell died if my memory is correct which it isn't always

Most of the site has dissapeared under a housing estate and the runway or taxiways (covering my bases here no pun intended) were bisected by the M62 motorway.

I've ringed the thing that I am after but I could also do with some petrol pipes. Do you need part numbers or would you prefer pictures? Would this be better as a separate thread rather than adding things onto 'scrap yard relics'

They do exist I've been to two here, its a case of being in the right place and knowing the right people

smg box in one of the pics I would be interested in that Turret pads in the pics

Yes spot on

Many thanks

Its not a grease nipple (I know you didn't mention that) I think its something to do with cold starting (I can't remember the name of the system). I think all of the B series of engines were fitted with this system, its usually capped off but the pipes remain.

Reasonably certain that its not soldered it might be welded on. I don't think that its brazed on either. I was looking at one last night while I was looking for the alloy ID plate for the inside of one my Ferrets, I can't see me getting a pic of it till Sunday. I'm trying to sort out the bits that I don't want for ebay or Malvern.

Hi Jim, I'm not sure if this is the side that you need? Make sure that the generator cable can not touch the prop shaft it should have a p type of clip underneath the inlet manifold to hold the cable up to stop that, its not unknown for it to be missing. Cable ties can come in handy to hold it out of the way as a temporary solution.

I have been sent an in service picture at Batus. Does it still have the double pad on the turret hatch?

It will go on top but don't count on it moving again!

Do you have any pictures?

Cracking looking kits

Its been scrapyard challenged...will it float

To replace the bottom hoses you have to remove the skid plate and the grill above the radiator. The deck can stay on you will have to unlock the rear deck from the grill above the radiator. Be careful with the skid plate its heavy and awkward but can be lifted by one person. Check the length of the wire attaching the convoy light and the number plate light to the skid plate; remove the connections if you think they might get in the way. Have some wood on the floor to drop the plate onto. If unsure use an engine lifter (remove the number plate light) and remember it tends to hook on at the very top of the vertical area of the skid plate and swing towards you when its removed. If you leave the bolts in place where it goes from vertical to an angle you can safely remove the bolts in the area where the starting handle hole protrudes out of the skid plate. I know this is obvious but it doesn't hurt to write it. Use you're leg/knee (with an arched foot) to support the skid plate and leave the bolts in place where the skid plate goes from vertical to an angle and remove the other four leaving just the ones at the angle. The vee shape of the hull tends to hold the skid plate in place at the very top so now’s the time to remove those last two bolts. With you’re knee still holding the plate up relax you’re foot and let the plate drop towards you and get a good firm hold and remove the plate. When you remove the radiator make sure that you have somewhere to put it as it’s a heavy lump. Remove the radiator back flush it and then refit using the weight of the radiator (its heavy) to push the bottom connection onto the hose. When the bottom hose is on the top hose will want to connect to the top hose, have a screw driver ready to tighten the jubilee clips onto the top hose. This anchors the radiator on so that you can tighten the bottom hoses up. I've removed the radiator side mounts before now to refit the hose as I've found it easier to jiggle the radiator with those out of the way. If you can't get the skid plate and the grill back on jack up the Ferret in-between the rear wheel stations, the weight of wheel stations tends to splay the hull apart. This also works for the hull tube between the wheel stations.

I can buy 25 Litres SAE30 oil for £35, good quality as well. Find you're nearest bulk oil supplier or ask a local garage where they get there oil from. Once you have found them they should also be able to supply the transfer box, bevel box and hub oil.

It doesn't come with gold plate as well then?

Its open all the time

Hi Jim, I've started stripping my box down and have cleaned out the transfer box and for the most part reassembled it. I'm waiting for a bearing to arrive before finishing the transfer box. I'm only part way through the gearbox side cold got the better off me today brrr. I'll have to post some pics

I've used speedograph before for a speedo cable I wasn't unhappy with the result. http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/