Chris Suslowicz

ALL respirator filters made before (hand gesture) 1950-ish contain asbestos. (The post-WW2 filters are spun glass because the USA lacked a source of esparto grass to make the filter paper out of, so developed a substitute.) The Civilian and Civilian Duty (round canister fixed to the mask) respirators contain white (Chrysotile) asbestos. The Service (flattened canister with hose connection) respirator contains blue (Crocidolite) asbestos. The green add-on "Contex" filter for the civilian respirators also contains blue (Crocidolite) asbestos. Now where did I put that article?.... Ah... From: Wireless-Set-No19@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Wireless-Set-No19@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chris Suslowicz Sent: 18 September 2009 10:22 PM To: Wireless-Set-No19@yahoogroups.com Subject: [The WS No.19 Group] Concerning respirators (gas masks) The only types likely to concern signals collectors are: 1) The General Service Respirator (Mask, hose, and separate filter canister) 2) The Civilian Duty Respirator (one piece mask with exhaust valve over the filter) either of these masks can be found fitted with a microphone for telephone switchboard or wireless operation. Hence the interest. BOTH OF THESE MASKS USE FILTERS WHICH CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBRE AND SHOULD NOT BE WORN. The civilian duty respirator uses the same filter canister as the other civilian respirators, and these apparently contain chrysotile ("white") asbestos. This is slightly less hazardous than other types, but you still don't want to inhale any fibres. The General Service respirator is another matter entirely. The following warning is poached from ePay: ----------------- Blue asbestos in British gas masks Brian has wisely advised that some WWll gas mask filters contain asbestos and should never be worn. The filters of the British General Service respirator contained crocidolite: the most dangerous type of asbestos. These filters are easily identified: they are a flattened oval in shape, are a reddish brown colour and connect to facepiece by a corrugated hose. These filters are dangerous to handle, far less wear. In addition, the canvas haversack used with these gas masks can also be contaminated. I have tested such filters and haversacks and was able to measure hazardous fibre concentrations being released. Robin ----------------- The Imperial War Museum have sealed all their filters (possibly using PVA (Poly Vinyl Alcohol) adhesive, which is a standard woodworking and craft adhesive that is water soluble when liquid and transparent when dry). This renders the filter useless but a lot less dangerous and is effectively invisible once done. From their website: ------------------ Safety when handling old gas masks British gas masks of the Second World War pose a problem today, as many incorporated asbestos (both blue and white) within their filters. Although relatively safe when new, the asbestos may now be starting to break down, and might be expelled from the filters, especially if they are damaged or if the mask is tried on and air is drawn through the filter. For these reasons it is not recommended that old gas masks are ever put on, by anyone. Handling may also pose some threat. The Imperial War Museum has chosen to seal the filters on all its suspect gas masks, whether on display or used in handling collections. This stops them functioning but does not change their outward appearance ------------------ From the "war relics" website: If you wish to seal the filter, this is easy to do. Simply mix a solution of white PVA glue and pour a small amount into the filter. This will set and keep any possible loose fibres in place while not detracting from the appearance. ------------------ Obviously, you should NOT attempt to dismantle the filter canister in order to remove the contents! ---------------------------------------------------------- This posting brought to you courtesy of the Elves (and their Safe Tea), because Elfin Safe Tea is very important these days. Chris.

You are very unlikely to need it. RCDM stands for Remote Control Digital Modulation, and allowed the "DM" box to be controlled (in a limited fashion) over a 4-wire link. It was part of the Secure Speech setup from the Larkspur era, using SR C42, the DM and "Goodman" boxes and the BID 150 encryption unit. This appears to be the later Clansman version for CSSH (Clansman Secure Speech Harness) that goes with the VRC-353, the DMU and BID 250 encryption module. Chris.

Section X was "Searchlights, generating sets and general electric light stores", originally, so the elder pith may well have been used in the servicing/maintenance of artillery instruments, etc. (Though Z1 is radio, so might have been for the instrument mechanics use.) I think they merged Section X into another area at some point. Chris. (Google found this hit: Vocabulary of Army Ordnance Stores, 1926-1934: Section S1 Ammunition for Medium, Heavy and Coast Defence Artillery (explosives) ; Section S2 Ammunition for Medium, Heavy and Coast Defence Artillery (non-explosives) and Empty Packages ; Section T1 Trench Warfare Ammunition, Demolition Explosives, Cordite in Bulk, Gunpowder, &c. (explosives) ; Section T2 Trench Warfare Ammunition, Demolition Explosives, Cordite in Bulk, Gunpowder, &c. (non-explosives) and Empty Packages ; Section U Miscellaneous Ammunition and Magazine Stores ; Section V1 Range-finding, Optical and Associate Stores ; Section V2 Surveying and Drawing Instruments and Watches ; Section V3 Cinematograph and Photograph Requisites ; Section W1 Field Works, Mining and Water Supply Stores ; Section W2 Electric Cables and Wires, Primary Cells and Miscellaneous Electrical Stores ; Section X Searchlights, Generating Sets and General Electric Light Stores ; Section Y Signal Stores Line and Visual ; Section Z Signal Stores Wireless Also Protable Secondary Batteries )

You'd be quite wrong there: quite a lot of the Polaris/Chevaline warhead assembly is made of plywood, according to an acquaintance who used to work at the instant sunshine factory. (Since the number of missiles was (and is) quite small, there was no point in tooling up for mass production and plastic mouldings, plus they needed something light and strong: plywood is the obvious choice.) Apparently there's a warhead at the "secret nuclear bunker" museum (minus its physics package, of course) and you can see the internal construction. (Rummage... Aha!) http://www.hackgreen.co.uk/Our-Secret-History/Nuclear-Weapons-Display/WeaponIframe/weaponiframe.html Chris.

Yes, the flat aluminium one is the British A.C.L. No.10 and I would very much like to get one if anybody has a spare. (Likewise a "donut" or two of the Assault Cable No.2, though that would have to be in the UK due to shipping costs!) I have the split reel for use with the ACL 10. I suspect the "wood & wire" handle for the other cable is fitted backwards the wooden roller is far more likely to be the handgrip! Chris. (Occasional collector of Line kit.)

In that case your negative terminal is not making good enough contact. Disconnect the lead, give the terminal post and the clamp a good clean and a tiny smear of vaseline, refit the clamp to the post and tighten it up properly. (Don't apply too much force to the thing or you may damage the battery casing.) A good, clean, low resistance contact is what you need, as it has to pass several hundred amps when cranking the engine. The hiss and smoke was due to a poor (high resistance) connection getting very hot. Chris.

The green one at lower right is a pistol or revolver lanyard. Chris.

One strand tinned copper, six strands tinned steel, PVC insulation (i've seen blue and green versions). Intended for use with Reel No.10 and an "elbow hook" type of cable layer. It was supposed to be air-droppable without a parachute, after which the "doughnut" could be returned to the circular condition, you then removed the hessian wrap but left the string ties in place, fitted it to the split reel, clamped the reel together before removing the ties and off you went. Assault cable No.1 was mild steel wire (possibly copper plated) with a paint insulation coat. It was supplied on wooden reels and not considered recoverable for re-use. A load of it was sold off by Robert Dyas the ironmongers for use as plant ties, etc., years ago. Assault cable No.2 was a vast improvement, and reusable with the split drum. It's probably not very good as an antenna, being even higher resistance than D10 - considered "emergencies only". I can dig the full specification out if you really need it. (I have a small (100 yard) sample of the cable, and the correct reel, but not the 'hook type' layer for it - does anyone have one going spare?)

Or dig a couple of shallow trenches. Chris.

It's a Can, intended to contain Water, for use in a Toilet. Simples! <squeak> At a guess, it's intended for washing down the "wall and gully" type of urinal where there's no automated flushing system installed. Chris.

Better: that's a work of craft! :saluting: Chris.

It's certainly not a 25 pdr, just look at the ammunition: fixed rounds and much too long to be anything except a high velocity (and therefore antitank) round.

And when they manage to make it rain in Australia. Very nice that they managed to find one that saw action in WW2 _and_ a member of the original crew!

Well, I suppose I can count some 48-foot aerial masts and oddments I treated myself to (mostly Clansman bits). Actual presents... The Cdr. Chris Hadfield book of photographs from the ISS. Some other books, one as an audiobook. DVDs, mostly science fiction. Plus the one single thing that will cause the most trouble of all: A Round Tuit (so I no longer have any excuse for not getting on with stuff). Chris.

An endoscope is probably unsuitable anyway, unless you can get it really close to the bit you're interested in. I suspect the typical "in focus" distance is under an inch. An autofocusing camera on a suitable long pole (with ideally its own light source and remote control from a laptop so you can see what you're looking at before taking the shot) would be better. What's the relative position of the target area from the rear door? If it's straight in and look sideways, I'd consider sticking a camera on a length of 2x2 (tripod bush is 1/4" Whitworth), rotate it to the angle you need, and then feed it in - use something to support the rod to reduce shake and see what you get. (My old Fuji S2Pro can be controlled from a Mac/PC over USB for studio work, and would probably work well in this situation. I'm sure more recent cameras offer the same features.) Chris.

Paraffin can for a cable-jointer's blowlamp? Chris.

Basically a "bump cap" with huge cutouts so the user can wear the serious ear defenders needed around jet engines. :-D

As long as the woodworm haven't interbred with the tinworm it's probably reasonably safe to handle. Keep it away from anything like a Morris Traveller though or you might get an outbreak of vehiculus eateruppus that will need a flamethrower to eliminate. :-D

I would imagine the generator would be placed on the ground, away from the truck, the flexible exhaust hose would be run out further away still to prevent fumes getting back inside and the hose itself was usually buried to cut the noise down, reduce the trip hazard. The generator then connected to external terminals on the truck that would feed the "power unit" terminals on the charging switchboard. I can't imagine the charging set being run on the vehicle, especially in a box, due to lack of airflow and also vibration. Chris.

The whole assembly is consistent with 1950s usage. The Canadian supply unit was a preferred option due to its lower power consumption on receive (using the vibrator supply) and it also allowed use in 24 volt vehicles. What I don't see it the top edge of the variometer mounting bracket, which should have the rigid aerial mounting for ground station use. Chris,

That's Carrier No.3 (or in this case 23), and is the "Truck & Ground Station". It's general purpose and fits to a radio table with a couple of quick release rails (which also incorporate the vibration mountings). K9 with C42/WS19 is one option. 15cwt truck with "house type" body is another. I have an installation drawing for a Morris (I think) truck, somewhere. It's not for Jeep or Land Rover, as they used Carrier No.1 or 21 for fixed installations or No.25 for demountables with the variometer, aerial base and control box mounted on a plat on top of the set in order to save (horizontal) space. Chris.

I suspect the metal was too thick and too hard to spin. The originals were most likely pressings and beyond the scope of even the Gosling's facilities. (Which is a pity.)

That's a good plan. (The longest 'hang-fire' I've ever experienced (with a firearm) has been a couple of seconds - with some very old and horrible .38 S&W that I assume had been badly stored.) With firework pyrotechnics it's usually "wait until after the show and the audience has left" before doing anything about it, after which time you can think about dealing with it - though if there's smoke coming out, you pour a bucket of water down the tube and wait half an hour. A friend told me about one rooftop display where a shell failed to launch, was still smoking gently at the end of the show, so they cleared away the rest of the kit, got some chairs out and sat around eating fish & chips until it finally launched - 40 minutes later than intended. I think the R.N. practice was to wait 30 minutes then dump the misfire over the side - this presumably only applies to the small stuff. If you're being shot at the rules will be rather different, of course (i've seen footage from GW1 where a 50 BMG was being fired with about 20% dud primers - the crew simply worked the action and carried on firing with a growing pile of spent brass and misfired rounds at their feet. Then again, if one did suddenly function it would be more like a small rocket than an explosion). Chris.

Also WS9 and WS11, the _original_ WW2 British Army R/T procedure (before they filed the serial numbers off the German one used in North Africa and used that) and phonetic alphabet. ...and an honourable mention to Eric Coates' "Calling All Workers" played at Light Infantry tempo. :-D

An ash & clinker bucket? The handles are rigid and big enough to allow the use of gloves.