ArtistsRifles

Nice idea Sean. I think the studs are about 20mm long so it might be possible. Once I make the cradle up I'll be able to measure up. But its certainly a good idea :-)

Interesting news Sean - thanks for sharing the link. A rolling dae would be nice - although I admit to seeing the logic of a dafty test. Sadly though, knowing bureaucrats and politicians, I more or less guarantee that in time that will morph into a carbon copy of the MOT! Its true what you say about DVLA - my FFR Landrover has a "Y" suffix registration because the numpty in DVLA used the MoD Cast date as the date of manufacture instead of the actual build date of 17 December 1973!! The situation with Militants is bizarre to say the least - Hutch's and mine are virtually identical - but because mine is registered with a build date of 1959 it is MOT exempt and I can drive it on a B licence provided its not used laden/for hire or reward. Whereas Hutch's being 1966 requires an MOT and - I believe - the equivalent of the old HGV Class 2 license.

Seems to be the season or dodgy internet connections for Militant owners - we had the broadband router go down Monday and have only just got back up and running. During this time the BV for the Militant has arrived, the cable is due any day now. This is the device - latest gen version: It was advertised as an RAK-15 unit but looking through the manual that came with it (new in box) it turns out to be the slightly larger capacity Model 471012. The paper thing its sitting in is a template for the carrier - I made it in paper first to verify the dimensions were OK. Everything seems OK apart from the depth of the slots for the mounting studs. The unit is sitting at the very bottom of the cut out - but I am thinking of adding a layer of rubber to the base cut down on vibration noise - there is enough of that in a Militants cab as it is so that will lift the studs up the mounting slots. The cable coming is the ones for this type with the round connector one end and what looks like two male plugs going by the sellers photos. That will make installation a lot easier. Just got to provide a supply with a 20A fuse in it. Definitely for use with the engine running only. Manual reckons it takes 20 minutes to boil 1.05 gallons - US gallons I guess - of water for hot drinks and then it will maintain that heat for some 6 hours. The stud on the side is for an earthing strap and I need to fabricate a strap that runs horizontally across the front - standard tongue and buckle - that is fastened at each end to the side cheeks.

Mine has a master I/O switch simply because the previous owner fitted it to save the batteries when sitting for long periods. It was never standard on Militants - unlike Stalwarts.

Welcome to HMVF mate - repository of nearly all the knowledge on Mk1 Militants. :)

That looks similar to what I recall save that there was no key lock in the lid but a fold-over hasp akin to a 109" Landrovers rear tool lockers that used the same Squire padlocks as the rest of the vehicles.

Just to add to the confusion - there are no boxes in my cab either! I have plywood removable bases in the angle iron frames behind the seats (removable for access to the batteries) and that is all. Now - having said that - I definitely remember storage bin in the cabs on the Mk 1 tippers we had in 215 RCT(V) - but - I have a recollection they were sheet steel and had padlock hasps on so the bins could be secured. Unfortunately I have no photos from those days Might have been because there were no external lockers on the vehicles (3-way tippers)

Looking for the following bits to carry out running repairs on my Mk 1: Rear brake air distribution valve that bolts to the crass member just behind the rear most axle - according to the ISPL (Army publication code 22084) the description is "Valve Assembly, Relay A.P. Brake" shown on plate X, item 112. AEC part number is 5006-446. Army part number is LV6MT9/2530-99-802-4900. Fuel tank side gauge - "Gauge, Fuel Magnetic Type" as shown on plate DD, item 2 AEC PArt number 81-2311 Army part number - LV6MT/6680-99-802-0354 Fuel tank sender unit for cab gauge - shown on plate DD in outlined box - not listed in the ISPL part listings so no part numbers available

Nice job Although you did forget the unditching log that's normally carried strapped across the hull above the back doors

Glad to be of assistance - as far as it went Be nice one day maybe to have all the old girls together I had a fortnight running around in Germany in one for around 12 to 14 hours a day - came home deaf for a week after cos I forget my ear defenders. Yes - mine was the same - they are the original grey BV's so very high drain. I have no idea what the operation/drain is on these new ones yet - again it requires reading the manual that comes with them. I am guessing they will still require the vehicle running to use - not a problem if making a brew of coffee whilst on the road. Apparently they heat up within 20 minute then retain heat for 6 hours so a single boil up will do for pretty much every journey its likely to do. Not going to be in constant use. On the news front - heard tonight from Ray in Oz, he has the pallet now to pack up the A/A mounts on so hopefully soon I'll have an idea when they are arriving in the UK for those interested in the other 3. And also heard from the Indian suppliers of window winders - they are sending another package which, I hope to god, should have the right type in. Probably means another £20+ demand from HMRC for VAT due. And I will have to claim the original payment back on the first package. Things progress.

Always seemed to me to be better business sense to say "Offers in the region of £xxxxx" if the seller doesn't want to state a firm price. At least then the viewer of the ad can see if what's being looked for as at least within his/her price range and the seller is not committed to a price.

Funnily enough - that is a future project Rob. At the moment this will be enough and we can juggle outputs as required - i.e. no hot drinks at night if the rear board is powered up, maybe shutting down the intercom if the BV is on. Other consideration is the RAK-15 has two power settings so until it arrives and I can read the manual I don't know what the current draw is on the low power setting. Right now the whole thing is like juggling balls. Hopefully one catches them all as they land. It's as much a first for me as it is for the Militant OK - advice gratefully accepted - MDF is out, ply it is. I did think about steel - but there's enough that rattles and vibrates in the Militant at 30 mph that it really doesn't need me adding to it

Cheers Iain. the 4 way is worth thinking about for sure for the added resilience. I must admit - I forgot that one existed. Its not a shelf I am thinking of - but a back board that will stand vertically with the power supply unit, intercom boxes and BV cradle bolted to it. In turn the back board will be supported from the bolts that hold the cab halves together at the bas and either by fabricated brackets from the top shelf supports or alternatively and angle iron frame sitting on top of the cab join. The point on damp deterioration is well made though. I will have to see what space is available and thus the side of the board needed - that will determine whether its MDF, marine ply or hardwood. Either way it will be sealed and painted in DBG. Power wise - the BV may be used in transit if there is a co-driver on longer trips, or in rest areas only depending on the nature/time taken of the trip so the power supply unit will need to cope with the 15A max draw from that PLUS the power draw from the intercom units themselves PLUS the current draw from the feed to the rear mounted rotating beacon/ LED's (what ever I use - anything dark green and moving at 30 flat out is a magnet for a rear end collision without anything). IF I use LED strobes then maybe 2 or 3 Amps for those too??

I am using the new gen BV David, the RAK-15 which uses a 24v 15A supply. Should be within the limits of one of those 3-way units. If not - then I'll take a direct fused supply from the vehicles systems. The 3-way box is the neater option currently - but its all in the air at the moment as I said. First thing is to measure the width and height available for the mounting board and the nearest supply point on the vehicle relative to that. I have a master I/O on the battery feed so wherever I take the power from must be after that I/O switch, current favourite idea is the distribution block that sits behind the drivers seat as that needs refurbishing anyway. Once it's all done I'll put the photos up of the complete installation.

UAZ suffers the same problem as the Knocker right now - its outdoors and the weather is not conducive to working on it. :-)

Now the evil weather is here stopping any work on the cab skin its time to look at the cab interior- future plans there for. Past - and extensive - time spent in the cab i the cab of Knockers rumbling around the UK and Germany has taught 2 important lessons: 1) Its noisy!! Ear defenders are usually considered a must but then you cannot hear the navigator/co-driver. Solution - fit an intercom system. Clansman ANR based it the ideal solution as its in keeping with the vehixle and everyone likely to be riding in the passenger seat is familiar with it. 2) Its a slow vehicle so getting hungry and thirsty whilst driving is a constant. Solution - fit a BV in the back of the cab. To that end an RAK-15 unit is on order from evilbay together with its power lead. The latest issue type - RAK-15 -has low power auto-cutoff so if the voltage drops below, I think 22v it switches itself off. Andy from EMLRA has given me the drawing for the support cradle to make one up from 1.5mm mild steel All this should mount nicely on a board - maybe MDF? -on the back of the cab supported by brackets from the bolts that hold the two cab halves together and braced off the upper storage shelves. If I use a Clansman 3-way fused power supply I can take a single tap off the existing electrical system to supply it and use: 1 fused point for the ANR Intercom system 1 fused point for the RAK-15 BV 1 fused point for the feed to the rear auxiliary power supply for the whirly beacon etc rather than the existing banana plug that fits in the inspection lamp socket. I can do this at home so it is ready for the start of the working weather!!!

Heh - if you think Jeeps are bad be happy that Schwimwagens do not float your boat!!! :wow: :wow:

If you have the Mil Reg its easier to use the on-line system and get an automated PDF to download.

I just KNEW you were going to say that!! :-D :-D

Just adding my thoughts to the mix - no criticism or anything, just thoughts. Have you looked at the likes of "Practical Classics" - this is the other mag I get on monthly subscription. For me there are a couple of definite draws in reading this one that perhaps are missing but could be added to CMV: 1) They have a regular readers vehicles section - 2 to 4 pages of short stories of readers restorations, either completed or in progress. 2) As well as the professional restorations there are full readers restorations of vehicles - and there is a big difference between people struggling in damp and draughty garages - or even gardens/yards and the professionals in dry workshops. 3) Readers - as well as reporters - accounts of entries on vehicle rallies (not rally sport or racing). Would the future of CMV lend itself to such forms of articles?

If John is in the HMVF clubhouse then the beers (and the buns) are on him to celebrate!! Now if only we could get those dancing girls back from Enigma!!

FWIW - getting the wheels back onto an RL (or a Militant or Stolly for that matter) without mechanical aids or spare hands was - is - a bit of an acquired art. :wow: The way I was taught back in the day was to get the hub just high enough to slide the pick-axe handle under the wheel whilst its on the vehicle. Then when you refit the wheel position it so that the holes line up with the stud whilst its sitting on the ground and slide the shovel and the pick axe handle under the tyre and use as levers to lift the wheel up so that the studs line up with the holes, you can jiggle it a little either way to fine tune the line up - then basically use the upper body to push the wheel onto the studs.

I am hunting for a brake valve for a Mk 1 Militant if anyone can help - the one that mounts on the X-member behind the rear-most axle and splits the air feed to the two axles. Mine has the relief valve stuck open and I want to do a one off, one straight back on job rather than having to leave the air lines open to atmosphere for a week whilst I refurb the existing one.. Description is "Valve Assembly, Relay A.P. Brake" AEC part number is 5006-446 Army part number is LV6MT9/2530-99-802-4900 For reference it is item #112 on plate X in the Military ISPL (Army Code 22084)

Now he tells me Get ready for the rush in ordering them if you have

Time for a minor update! Nothing much has happened in real terms as I had a couple of weeks holiday then had to gear up for the Cenotaph on my return - promptly followed by catching a stinking cold!! However - on getting back from hols I've followed Robs example with the winders and contacted the eBay supplier to see what they can do. Not the fastest mob at responding to e-mails - kind of reminds me of dealing with East European suppliers!! I've also been hunting around and found a sheet steel supplier who can sell me the size sheets I need to do the side panels of the cab - that size is the approx size of the individual panels as I have a very limited ability to handle large sheets of steel. Looks like being roughly £30 to £25 per sheet for the large ones like lower rear sides of the cab. Wiring diagrams have been studies in preparation for basically replacing all the external wiring and cable sheathing - question currently is do I replace it all in white with cable markers or go for a conventional coulored loom. And last and perhaps not least I also managed to acquire on of the seemingly uber-rare 1 gallon oil cans for the rear locker: