ArtistsRifles

Is that Rex's one?? Never thought he would ever sell that!!

Finally got to see this episode. I liked it. I do, however, remain curious as to where the hell he got the Panther from!! As stated on the program - they are as rare as rocking horse dropings......

That cork gasket in the change over tap wasn't helping either. Looks like it was split on one side so it would draw air to an extent. Congrats on solving the issue

The cage lockers under the front of the load bed on drop side bodies (GS at least) were meant for stowing the canvas sheets/roof sections, roof horizontal bars etc. The actual hoops themselves went into the pockets on the front of the load bed - the passenger side one being hinged to swing away when dropping the spare wheel. Which - come to think of it - is probably why you rarely see them carried there, instead the entire roof assembly was dropped in the stores if not needed. You are right about the jack handle sizes - we used to use the jack handle and the pick axe helve to lift the replacement wheel up onto the hub. As I said - I recall militant ones being either one piece or two - two piece definitely lived in the tool locker with the jack itself and I thought the one piece type lived in the tool boxes behind the crew seats in the cab. The memory is going back to the 1970's though is could bell be FUBAR.

On mine - and from memory on the tippers - the shovel went on the back of the cab on the passenger side - this is the lower bracket for the blade on mine - handle strap is higher up (obviously). Cannot remember now where the pick axe helve and head were stowed.

Umm - actually - they did have the 4 ball mounts for the AA installation - the scow just reached to the back of the cab covering the spare wheel.

Now that IS interesting Rob!! From dim and distant memory the jack handle was either a one piece unit that lived in the tool boxes behind the crew seats or a 2 piece unit that lived in the tool locker with the jack itself. What do an Artillery Tractor and a Tanker have in common I wonder? Ideal solution would be if some one, somewhere, had a copy of the CES stowage diagram!!

Back over the Militant today.... New door panel was offered up to the passenger door for a test fit and secured by 3 screws, left, right and bottom, to see if everything lined up. Good new is nearly everything did. Not so good is that the top 3 holes for the door lock were too high and had to be extended down about 1.5mm by file. 3 holes out is not so bad I guess - although how they were out is beyond me as the old panel was clamped to the new one and I drilled through that. Once the holes were extended all was well - the missing hole positions were transferred from the door frame tot he new skin and also drilled and de-burred then the panel was re-affixed to the door and given a coat of Bonda Primer. Quite impressed with how smoothly that dries when applied by brush!! Whilst the door panel was drying I took the two door caps and, using the handy vice bolted to the front bumper cleaned the thick paint and surface rust off with the trusty angle grinder then gave them a coat of Bonda Primer too. By this time the door panel had dried sufficiently to allow the screws holding it on to be repositioned and the bare metal under the original positions coated too. Finally the two retaining screws that I could not undo in the drivers door winder mechanism were cut off - angle grinder again - and the winder assembly removed, that door also getting a coat of Bonda Primer over it where the winder assembly had previously blocked access. That was it for today - primer has to be left to go off so next week it will be a case of getting the Deep Bronze Green on then the week after the doors var be reassembled. Hopefully by then the dry weather will finally be here and the canvas can come off the roof and the cab framework behind the passenger seat can be addressed.

At a guess - something unique to the tanker variant?? It's not on my GS version and I do not remember seeing it on the tippers we had in 215.

Bit more progress...... Went shopping today for an 18mm hole saw to cut out the opening for the window winder handle. Thought it would be an easy job to get one - I was WRONG!!! Plenty of 18mm ones there - if you want to cut through plasterboard or ceramics. All the steel ones started at 20mm - after trying the usual big DIY chains as our local tool shop closed a year ago I was out of luck. So a phone call to Machine Mart later I wound up with a set of stepped cone drills that covered the 18mm size. Worked well too, nice clean cut. Edges and holes are de-burred and the inside face has been given a coat of Bonda Primer. Now the panel is about 95% complete - all I need to do is transfer the hole positions from the door frame to the new skin panel and the job is done. At times like this the long distance between home and where the Militant lives is a right PITA!! Anyways - this time some photos!! Passenger door cleaned and painted inside: Old skin rivetted temporarily to the new one to let me use it as a template for cutting and filing - you can see clearly the missing areas at the bottom where the holes need transferring from the door frame: New and old panels side by side: New panel - inner face - just needing the last few holes at the bottom: And I can't remember if I posted these before - the refurbished steering wheel ready and waiting to be refitted. A vast improvement over the old cracked condition!!

Bit more done on Saturday. Last of the seized screw remnants on the passenger door was removed with mole grips - they undid - albeit reluctantly- with mole grips clamped on after a weeks soaking in penetrating fluids. Then the inner face of the door was rubbed down and given a coat of Bonda Primer ready for a coat of DBG next week. The old door skin was then clamped to the new sheet of steel after it was aligned with the scribed outline and then all the holes bar the centre one for the winder handle were drilled through. I need to get a hole saw to do the winder hole and there are roughly 4 maybe 5 holes that will need to be measured and drilled on the bottom edge and that part of the existing skin has rotted away. Original plan was to cut the new panel to shape with a jigsaw but it was recommended that I use a cutting disc in the angle grinder to do a quicker job and give a clean finished edge. Seemed a good idea so Sunday I went shopping on-line for cutting discs at the DIY stores - and Mr Murphy stuck his oar in. My angle grinder is so old the latest discs won't fit!! On the off-chance I had a look on the Machine Mart sitein case they did the size I needed. Nope - they didn't either - but Google popped up a list of discount codes and when I did the math I could get a replacement grinder plus a pack of 5 disks for more or less the same price as the likes of B&Q wanted for the packs of disks. So I did - should be here tomorrow

Think I will pop up as a day visitor on the Sunday. My old girl is still missing a silencer.

I'm no expert - but my '74 109 FFR had issues with pin connectivity in the big multi-plug that is held into the generator by a screwed collar. Might be worth having a look there first??

Another days work carried out on the Militant. The remains of the screws rusted in the passenger door that would not undo last time had to be drilled out. So the remains were flattened with an angle grinder, centre punched and drilled out using a 3.5mm drill. Took a bit of doing but eventually all the remains were out of the door. Then the surfaces were cleaned up to lose the loose surface rust followed by applying a coat of Jenolite rust converter all over. Next week this door inner will get a coat of bondaprimer then the week after that both door inners and the instrument panel will get a coat or two of Deep Bronze Green. The doors and instrument panel will then be ready for re-assembly. Mean time the old inner door skin has been brought home to aid in fabricating a replacement - I have a new sheet of 1.2mm steel and spray-on marking blue. Tomorrow should see the new steel get a coat of the marking blue around the edges and where I expect to be be cutting a strip off through being over-long. The old and new panels will then be clamped together with two of the edges aligned and the shape of the panel traced through the marking blue with a scriber. The hole locations for the screws will also be be marked the same way. Once done the new panel can be cut and filed to shape then cleaned up and given a coat of bonda primer Another problem with the old panel was the inner surface had been left as bare metal which doubtless aided mightily in the rotting. Doesn't sound much but I was satisfied with the work done. Might have got more done but for hassle getting out of the drive - some twonk decided to park over the drive run-down just as the Rangie was backing out!!! 90 minutes later I finally managed to get out!! :mad:

Spot the difference - both are 469 rear prop shafts, one on the left is the original, one on the right is the "replacement"! So I checked over the UJ's on the original and they all seemed to be moving freely with no interference, Took a file to the small burrs on the nose where it had bounced on the M20 and refitted it - together with the brace that runs under the handbrake drum. Odd fact - 3 of the 4 bolts holding the prop shaft to the gearbox drive flange are 1.0mm pitch, the 4th is 1.25mm pitch..... Once the weather settles back down it will be time to get on with the new doors.

No mistake, it is indeed a sliding joint that is fully closed. Its supposed to be a standard part - should fit any 469 but twice on this job I've wound up with parts that need serious modification to fit. Getting beyond a joke now.

So - got a 27mm socket and removed the nut and the the drive flange. Removed the old back plate and close inspection revealed it was well and truly bent out of shape. Went to fit the replacement back plate - and only one of the holes lined up. Cue screaming session!!:mad::mad: Couple of days later a fellow ex-trog from the RCT helped me out by letting me use his pillar drill to re-drill the new plate with the hole in the right place then a little file work had the back plate bolted on. I replaced the flange and the 27mm nut and rebuilt the hand brake. Other than being a bit tight once the drum went on all was well. Today I went to fit the replacement prop shaft having been grounded from Militant work by a bad dose of the trots. Aaand - the curse of UAZ strikes again!! :mad: The replacement prop shaft, like the handbrake back plate, came off another 469. And like the back plate it doesn't fit!! With the nose of the prop shaft bolted to the gearbox/handbrake the axle end over hangs the axle flange by at least 25 mm with the spline section pushed fully home as in the photos below: Gear box end - note splines fully closed Axle end - overhanging by at least 25mm " width="644" height="390">">Something went wrong... (if the embedded video doesn't play use this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIi-g0Ee1jM) Seems to me that standardisation of parts is not a concept the UAZ design team really embraced - unlike the rest of the world. So it looks very much like I will have to refit the old prop shaft that had it's nose bounced down the M20 for about 1/2 a mile last July

I believe the issue with bull bars was that they are a rigid structure blocking the crumple zones, or other design features, modern vehicles have for pedestrian protection Generally speaking - if you hit a pedestrian with a Series Landie the idea of pedestrian protection becomes a laughable concept as you have a solid front - period. Ain't no way they are going to roll over and off the bonnet.

Or simply undo the two bolts holding the guard in place, undo the pinch bolt holding the change lever to the spindle, remover the lever and refit pointing downwards, finally refitting the guard piece. Then the lever will work as described!! Simples

Damn!! Out of the country in Belgium from 22/6 till 2/7 - over in Belgium reassembling a friends Series LandRover. paid work too that will go towards the running of the AEC.... Was thinking of doing the HCVS one in Haverhill on the 9th July - that's only 14 miles or so from where the Militant is. Nice short run as a pre-W&P test. If I get the silencer issue sorted.

Certainly hope so mate - want to get to W&P and was hoping to do the AEC rally too. Right now the only practical thing stopping me is the lack of a silencer! Next weekend I want to prep the passenger door, put a top coat in the drivers door, try and sort out the fuel and temp gauges, maybe fab a new inner door panel for the passenger door. If I do get to the shows its not going to look pretty A mix of bondaprimer and NATO green.

Another productive - and slightly painful - day working on the Militant after being grounded for 2 weeks without a car! The passenger door is now stripped down ready for rust treatment and primer/paint. One lock screw, one winder screw and five of the inner panel screws were rusted in place and had to have their heads/nuts ground off. Once the inner panel was off the reason for the excessive corrosion on this side became evident - the bottom of the door was full of leaves blocking the drain holes. Actually got the window winder mechanism out of this side - 3 of the 4 screws and nut undid easily enough. The next step is to get some sheet steel to fabricate a new inner panel - as well as outer skin panels - I will be nosing on line this week. Also got the tailgate down through 90 deg and held by the chains so access could be had to the living accommodation in the back body. Unfortunately the building wall behind the vehicle was too close so access had to be via the side - and the first time I tried the step ladder went flying leaving me to go the other way!! Again. Inspecting the tailgate showed it to be pretty poor, if I can find a better one it will be easier to replace than try to repair this one. I was pleasantly surprised at how light it was inside the living accomodation despite the only light access currently being via the entrance door. Need to get hold of a gas bottle (17.5 Kg) for cooking and the fridge and a leisure battery for the lights at night

You mean like this:

Would love to help - but Fife is waaay too far from East London for an overnight shoot. If you get no luck here on HMVF try asking on the Russian Truck forum.

Finally got the old horn apart today - took an application of heat, one last soak in WD 40 and then some percussive maintenance. :cheesy: It will need a new set of screws if I can get it working again as the old ones are pretty chewed up. That's the good news. Not so good news is I cleaned the contact points with some fine emery paper then hooked up a 24v booster pack to the terminals - and nothing!! I would have expected there to be a buzzing from the points opening and closing. All the connections look good so I think the object that looks like a condenser on the right of the unit has failed. Not actually sure either what it is or if it can be replaced as yet so luckily I have the smaller 24v replacement unit. I would like to get the original working again though so if anyone knows exactly what the object is and if its replaceable it would be appreciated!!