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Needle guns are good on thick sections, they are great for taking the many layers of paint off armoured vehicles. Blasting can be quicker and is definitley the way to go for small or thin parts. Chris

Paul, I thought Xenon bulbs were like flourescent tubes and pulsed so many times a second, therefore they require a seperate power supply. Are you sure they are Xenon bulbs? Chris

Maybe, but the bits around the Windows will probably be different. Have a look here http://www.brookwell.co.uk/products/exmoor-trim/series-2-and-3/series-2-and-series-3-hood-sticks

Jack, Try Ramco, http://www.ramco.co.uk Chris

I spend my days engineering thermal spray processes, both plasma and HVOF. We regularly repair worn and mis-machined parts for customers. As long as the part is properly prepared before coating then it should be possible to repair, even if there is pitting.

On my Ferret, which hadn't been used since rebuild in 1972, the fuel filler was red, the oil filler yellow and the coolant filler blue. Obviously the split rim nuts were red, but that was it. Chris

I was thinking we could make an extractor using some threaded rod and a tube. Screw it into the top of the injector, then wind the nut down and hopefully pull it out that way. I'll get it hot first and see what that does. I don't really want to have to take the head off if I can help it. Chris

From the history it sounds like it went to Alvis after the Belgians were finished with it. Quite a few went there after disposal. The Belgian vehicles were actually built in Belgium, so you can't really say it went back to Alvis. The vehicles they bought were refurbished or converted to diesel and sold on to other countries. My Sultan was supposed to go to an African country but the order was cancelled, it was also fairly stripped down when I got it. Chris

No I didn't try it when it was hot, I will try that next. Thanks. Chris

Norman, Yes I've tried that, and it had no effect! Chris

If I do that it won't be a Wolf anymore! No, they have to come out and sooner rather than later!

I have bought a new set of injectors for the Wolf. I managed to get the first one out really easily, but none of the others will budge. I've tried a slide hammer and still no luck. Does anyone have any tips for removing these damn things?! Thanks, Chris

John, The ones on the MW in the photo are standard post war FV pattern lights, common to many vehicles from Land Rovers to Ferrets, CVRTs, FV430 etc etc. Chris

Mark, CVRTs are more valuable for 2 reasons. Firstly they are small, you can fit them in many places you can't fit a 432. Park a CVRT next to a 432 and the 432 looks huge. A CVRT is nice to drive on the road, you are no wider than most of the cars. A 432 is a nightmare, especially with that supid drivers hatch sticking up in the way. Secondly they made 3000+ 432s. Now if you look at the CVRTs, they made about 300 Scorpions, of these 136 were converted to Sabres, of these 136 less than half went to civilian owners. They made 89 Strikers, there are maybe 20 in private hands. Withams had 200 432s in the last batch, they have been selling Mk2 432s off for a long time. It's all supply a demand, remember they aren't making any more of any of these vehicles, so the prices can only go up as more people become interested in them. Chris

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Austin-Champ-Daimler-Ferret-432-Speedo-Instruments-FV_W0QQitemZ160309398947QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET?hash=item160309398947&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A10%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Paul, You can buy a halogen light upgrade kit for a normal series Land Rover and just swap the bulbs with 24volt ones. I have even used these kits on CVRTs. http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/SERIES/Electrics/Halogen_headlamp_conversion_kit_(RHD).html Chris

CVR(T)s are great vehicles to restore. You can get nearly all the bits, and everything is easy enough to work on. Vince should have this one done for Beltring!

And mine is even further away in Nottingham... Paul, you don't say if you want a TUL or a TUM to measure? Chris

Scorpion is a tank, it can fire on the move. Chris

There is aparently a drawing in one of the manuals, but I don't have it. Try asking on the EMLRA forum. Chris

Simon, That would be great, I'll PM you my address. We measured up Rippos truck and what was left of mine, but they all seem to be slightly different. We've nearly finished the hardwood base frame, just got all the edges of the planks to chamfur before we can start building. I've got hold of as many whitworth coach bolts as I can find, I'd like to keep the original square nuts. Screwfix have just stopped doing those screws, luckily there was a cheap stockist on the internet so have ordered plenty. There are some pics of my donor truck here! http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?t=10384 Chris

Simon, Those body photos are very useful, thanks for posting. I have a pile of wood to build a new body for mine once I get the remaining original metal work blasted. Chris

Paul, Use a convertor. Plenty on ebay. http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/?_nkw=24v+to+12v&_sacat=0&_fromfsb=&_trksid=m270.l1313&_odkw=12v+to+24v&_osacat=0 Chris

Rick, If it is that bad that when blasted it turns to nothing, then there's not much hope! I would get it blasted by someone who knows what they are doing, before doing any repair work. The guy who does my blasting has blasted cars, planes, helicopters, even wood for film sets to make it look older than it is. Chris

Rick, If you want to go one step further than the red oxide you might want to think about a zinc thermal spray coating. I work for a thermal spray company, although we do parts for aircraft engines and industrial gas turbines and spray with robots so are comparativley expensive. You should be able to find someone local who does it manually. Have a look here: http://www.t-bblasting.co.uk/zinc-metal-spraying/ Chris