sirhc

I also recommend the use of one of these.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PAINT-MIXING-TOOL-PADDLE-MIXER-STIRRER-BLENDER_W0QQitemZ290281629328QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ?hash=item290281629328&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 Stick it in a drill and turn it slowly to mix up the paint. Put the paint tin in a cardboard box first though, incase you spin it too fast and it throws the paint everywhere!

Paul, Does it say KFOR or SFOR on the NBC pack door? Chris

I wouldn't buy a spare set of track unless all the bushes are knackered, but I would buy a few spare links. Pads aren't too expensive, £5 each or so. You will need roadwheels though, they don't last forever and can fall to bits out on the roads. I had the rubber from one over take me once! There are some pads here: http://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=3521 Chris

Another thing to remember when spraying an MV is that it's different than spraying a classic car... it doesn't need to be perfect and you're (hopefully) not going to polish it afterwards!

Jack, That all depends on what type of paint you're spraying! I use gunwash to thin down paint, you can buy large quanities fairly cheaply. Of course, if it's water based paint, just use water. Chris

Jack, I'm surprised you have a Snap On spray gun and a tiny compressor? Normally you need a decent sized compressor to run a spray gun. Make sure the nozzle in the gun is matched to the output of the compressor. The paraffin gun is useful for cleaning stuff, try spraying your engine with it, it will come up nice and clean. I spray watered down Marine Clean from Frosts with one, use a stiff brush to get the stubborn bits off and then wash down with a power washer. Spraying paint is faily easy, there are plenty of good guides on the web. Set your fan size etc by spraying some scrap cardboard etc before moving to your part/vehicle. You need to start off the part and finish off the part. Use a steady speed and maintain your distance and make a pass accross the part. Overlap the passes. Try not to put it on too thick, let it dry slightly before putting another pass on top. I always spray any sticky out bits first, make sure they are covered from all angles, then go over the whole lot with the nice steady sweeps. http://www.diy-compressors.com/spraying-basics.htm With a bit of practice you should find it's fairly easy to spray something without getting any runs. Chris

David, There was a good 432 website a few years back with a lot of the Mk 1 details. I have driven one, but it was some time ago. The dash is similar to the Ferret, with this extra bit.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/432-instrument-panel-ammeter-FV-wiring-connector-Champ_W0QQitemZ160318976439QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET?hash=item160318976439&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 Chris

Mark, Your NBC pack is external, so I think its safe to say it's a straight Mk 2. Chris

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CATWEAZLE-RICHARD-CARPENTER-PUFFIN-BOOKS-1976-PB_W0QQitemZ320340979407QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Books_ChildrensBooks_ChildrensBooks_GL?hash=item320340979407&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1687%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

The float has probably absorbed some fuel over the last 50 years. These gauges are never that reliable, the one on my Ferret does what it likes. I never let it go lower than 1/4.

Ok, but the chances of owning or seeing one of those are quite slim!

Good point, I'll add the Mk 3. The FV433 Abbot was only built with the K60 engine.

I thought it might be useful to put a few photos up here with the main differences between the various marks. Mk 1 has a B80 petrol engine, the exhaust exiting from the top rather than the LH side. There is a hinged hatch giving access to the engine. Mk 2 has the K60 diesel engine, the exhaust exits from the LH side. Mk 2/1 has the same engine as the Mk 2, but the NBC pack is flush with the hull. Both the Mk 1 and Mk 2 have large external NBC packs. Mk 3 aka Bulldog is fitted with a new engine and powerpack. These are usually covered in various bits of add on armour, but you can id them using the extra hatch cut in to the front armour. Chris

Paul, Your 432 is actually a Mk 2/1 not a 1/2. For troop seats try Nick at Tanks A Lot. I've had 2 432s but sadly have no spares left. I suggest you buy a set of manuals from Vintage MV Manuals and read them before doing too much with it. Chris

Typically it will be UNF when the bolts go in to steel and UNC when they go into aluminium. If a bolt has a nut it will be UNF.

These may help. Chris

Or you may be lucky and find something under the paint.

Vince, File sent previously attached. Chris Torsion Bars.pdf

Vince, I think the early engine mount and different steering levers are standard for Belgian vehicles. The Belgian Sultan I had was the same. I don't think the engine mount is weaker, it's just more difficult to get the bolts out and therefore makes an engine change take longer. Chris

Vince, Do you have a photo of the tape? I am sure it mentions it in the section from the AESP I have sent you previously. Chris

I used a needle scaler to do my Sabre and on the aluminium armour it works well and leaves no marks. Is it armour afterall, if it's damaged by a needle scaler it's not going to offer much resistance to a bullet! The thinner sections such as the lip around the hull I cleaned up with a cup brush or flap wheel on an angle grinder. Chris

We have all our vehicles on the same FJ policy, never had a problem adding and removing vehicles, they couldn't be more helpful.

Bastian, The Rad Haz kit is the lining kit for a hard top Wolf. Its a metal matrix covered with fabric and I think it is to reduce the thermal signature of the people and equipment sitting in the back. The parts you have are for a 110. Chris

Rick, The census numbers were replaced in the late 40s with the standard military registration number. Your Champ has one of these numbers, 60BE61, so would never have had a census number. Chris

Vince, The Belgian CVRTs were built in Belgium using parts sourced locally, so they would have done the welding! I don't think the hulls are that hard to cut as plenty of people have cut them up. Someone told me they cut up a Sultan using one of these http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=21B3Q2VQNAPW2CSTHZOSFFY?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=reciprocating+saw and that it was fairly easy. Chris