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welbike

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Everything posted by welbike

  1. Thanks all! I just checked the silencer, and there's no visible seams, so will cut it at the end of the main body and slide the innards in, and weld them to the inside, and hopefully tack them at the front too, so they won't rattle, and then Tig the end bit on again, and grind all welds, not on my priority list yet though. Lex
  2. Thanks all, here a picture of the front number plate after careful sanding. Also a couple of pictures from our holidays in Normandy in 2020, much rain, but nice rides! Done over 900 miles now, bike always starts first or second kick, only downside is, that it's relatively slow, and a bit loud, the internals of the original silencer have long gone, but Jan made me new silencer internals, but now I have to cut the silencer in two, to weld it in, hopefully it can be done without seeing the welds afterwards. Cheers, Lex
  3. Yes, I saw that too. I have some wheels and mudguards for those, if anyone needs them, frames too. Cheers, Lex
  4. Clips are first WW Ron, quite pricey too! Cheers, Lex
  5. But 26" so all postwar, won't fit very good on a wartime frame. Just saying, I have bought some of this stuff in the past, and it doesn't mix well. Lex
  6. Wish I were there! give my regards to the Indian rides guys and gals, they were very nice, last time I was there! Lex
  7. Ooops!! I'll change that!! Sorry, Lex
  8. Go to the Kempton jumble coming saturday, there's a stall selling all the shrink tubing, in the right colours, and you might find more stuff, wish I could go! Lex
  9. I would never use galvanised spokes, paint will fall of in a year or so, dip them in battery acid, wait 2-3 minutes, when the acid stops bubbling, and they will be bare steel, much better, watch out for the fumes, and rinse with lots of warm water, then dry. Cheers, Lex
  10. Good show! Jan here is making perfect repro racks, I lent him my original, and he made a fixture to build them, they are not easy! For coloured markers, use common heat shrink tubing, that resembles the originals the best!! Cheers, Lex
  11. The MAF riders handbooks seems to be the most numerous one, even I have one! Lex
  12. I don't have a picture of one, must be rare! is it a C or an S prefix contract? Cheers, Lex
  13. That plate is strange, not the size of a contract plate, more like the Matchless/Norton spare frame, engine or spare gearbox plates. OK, had a better look at the picture, and it does look like a rectangular contract plate, sorry for the confusion! Lex
  14. Ow, totally forgot, was wrestling with Welbike wheelbearings!! will check after dinner. An extra 3" ! Janet will be pleased! Lex
  15. Ok, just checking!! would be a shame if you'd all painted it, and it was not good! Keep up the good work! Lex
  16. Ok, I see what you're doing, but did you check the mudguard on the bike, with the number late holder, to see if the face of it is completely vertical? it somehow seems still to be very short? could be the angle of the picture maybe. Cheers, Lex
  17. Nice work sofar, are you restoring one, or is there enough to do two of them? I have a repro Miller taillamp, but it needs work, will see if I can make some pictures. Cheers, Lex
  18. Note, that there were 3-4-5 factory fonts, so check your contract!! Cheers, Lex
  19. Nice Steve, let me know please if you find another decompressor lever, still missing one! Cheers, Lex
  20. It's a P&M alright, but more like a 1918 model, every year had it's updates. Lex
  21. You won't find any to copy, If I would take mine apart, which I will not do, sorry, it will fall apart in hundreds of pieces! the 3 copper rivets need to be removed to take it all apart, so best is to make a 3D drawing of it. Cheers, Lex
  22. Great! but as I said, all the Canadian ones I have seen were that same colour. Lex
  23. Sorry, but I wouldn't rely on descriptions from very old model kits, the manufacturers of modelling paint have had it wrong for the last 50 years or so, and only now some of the right colours are appearing on the market, but the studies of Mike Starmer and the like, have got us on the right track, strongly advise to order his books, they have colour swatches in the back, plus the Humbrol/Revell formula's to make paint samples, that you can then use to have paint mixed for your real bike. Last picture is of my reference books on the subject. Cheers, Lex
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