rbrtcrowther

Thats sort of what i was getting at but was having trouble explaining. In fact i have never seen anyone break a propshaft (i'm sure it has been done) but have seen way too many snapped half shafts and blown diffs.

You might be able to mount it in a trailer and run it as a display. it might bo ok with no load ticking over all day

Got any footage of him trying to kill you:-D When you pulling my spare engine out Floyd:cool2:

I plan one day to change the clutch brake to a hand operated one on the gear stick. Only because i like to be different and it needs stripping off and sorting out anyway. If anyone thiks it would overcomplicated to drive don't worry my other hobby is playing the drums:cool2: How ofted do you see your mate with the CS Ellis Scammell cos he had a shaft made for his and i think it might be a good idea to have one made just as a get me home spare. How much was it?

As you can see from the picture, A copy of those plans would be rather handy if possibe. I would also be happy to pay for your troubles. Hows yours getting on?

Can't pull mine out either without the use of a landy (mind you i've only botherd to do once in order to re-time the serving gear. I know mine had a rather hard few years pulling bulldozers off the council tip. It seems the winch drum rubs on the pressure springs under the drum as if the drum has dropped a tad. However all the gears line up ok but the whole winch looks as if it has moved in the chassis. I need to compare it to another scammell at a show sometime. I only have two pressure roller arms on mine as one has been bent and mangeled, probrobly due to the serving gear being out of time. I don't think i can remove the arm with the winch in the chassis:embarrassed: It seems to work ok with two rollers:undecided: There are grease points top and bottom on the main winch shaft. I use oil on all my lubrication points as stated in the manual cos even modern greases dry out (yes really, they do come and look at our cranes and hoists if you like i can show you lots of dry grease) but thats another thread and another dedate:coffee:

I make a point of not wearing any uniform and have been known to wear a Hawaiian shirt and straw hat, I even painted the Scammell a non military colour. I don't really do military shows anyway just vintage rallys. I do shop at army and navy stores for my work clothes though. Warm, Comfy, and cheap:). I'll be in the comercial section thanks;)

My garage is concreat with a concreat roof. when the weather warms up after a cold spell i have huge problems with condensation, it runs off the walls and and cast iron equipment. i have stopped this by fitting a small solid fuel stove which i light when the wather is set to change. all condensation problems solved. Nice to work in the shed too and then i fuel it up and close off the air to slow the stove down when i go in the house. It will burn for several hours through the night and stops any condensation forming while the weather sorts itself out:)

I think this is more my sort of thing:cool2:Something went wrong...

Any Scammell with a bonnet. Cos they are the best looking truck ever built

Not to sure if extra oil would push the pipe off center and wear the back side of the tube?

I had someone do that to me last month when i got the land rover bogged down. Although the rope was one the front bumper low down the only easy pull was about 45 degrees to the right. the tosser doing the towing was from another club and decided he needed to show what his truck was made of an floored it. His huge over reving drowned out my blasting horn and he was only stopped by people running and banging on the bonnet. No need. start gentle and pay attention to what the hell going on behind. you can put the strop where you like, your not going to pull it over if you pay Attention to what your doing.

Still not a bad price for TWO brand new onesi If i had the cash spare i would stump up for them . I have seen people asking similar amounts for ones that have been on the shelf for twenty five years:shocked: They are made of rubber and glue after all. not sure i would have piece of mind having removed perished old coupling to then fit another old coupling. Most of the explorers i have crawled under at shows have been converted to shafts and one has been running for 5 years on one. The CS Ellis one is on a shaft and he says its great.

Sounds about right, the plug in the end ensures the oil is forced out the hole into the tiny gap between shaft and tube then along the lenth to the end bearing.

How big is the compressor on a cummmins? Do they keep up with the steering ok? The one on the meadows honks wind out, it's like a motor bike engine stuck on the side of the block. Can't wait to see this being fitted. you best take plenty of pics. Don't worry about the jake brake you can always stick your head out the window and :pfrt: as you go past:rofl:

I had a spot of bother with both my couplings when i got it home:( So i went and had a mould made to re rubber the old aluminium segments. the engineer ripped me off and took almost a year to make the bloody thing and then when the rubber company did the job we found that they came out a tiny bit small so i had to skim a tad off the lip to fit them. All in all i spent too much money on a mould that makes couplings a tiny bit too small.and it would have been cheaper to buy yours. but at least i have two nice re rubberd couplings that will hopefully last a while. that reminds me i must get the mould back from the rubber company and adjust the size. the rubber company charged about £40 to re rubber each coupling.

Is there not some electrical connections near the rocker cover for the jake. Could you not fit a couple of electric fans behind the rad? keeps it nice and simple Doubt it will get hot runing down the road with the wind through the rad and when your playing off road your not useing the full power just the revs so electric fans would be fine. just build a new cowel and mount them in that:)

land rover shaft would seem a tad small but i would have thought with a 1st gear ratio of about 3.5 to 1 on the landy gear box plus a bit more reduction in the transfer box. Flooring the landy in first would put about 150 to 260 horse power through the propshaft at much lower than engine speeds. Landy engine about 4000 rpm flat out divide 3.5 is about 1140 revs. So about 200 hp at 1140 rpm. Of course this is in my reality where i choose my own physics so i might have compleatly arsed up the maths:red: just my thoughts based on how a winch with a tiny diesel engine that can pull many tons up a slipway with a multiplication of hp and torque through a drop in speed through gearing.

how much is a propshaft conversion? is there a man who can knock them out to order or do parts need to be machined?

Ahhhh....so you've got one with a jacobs brake:D now has it got the variable jake brake of just on off?

Oh if i could offer you one piece of advice it wolud be to fit the rear tub in place before the front bulkhead even if only tempory so you can shim the front bukhead into the corect position, do this with the door hinges set in their mid position so you can have some final adjustment. I fitted my bulkhead first and found the door was too big to fit in the gap even with the hinges fully forward:red:

i can remember when mine looked that good after i rebuilt it. Not looking quite so clean now after all the off road fun but still in good order mechanicaly:-D

Hows about a nice gardener 6LW, Nice and steady:sleep:, economical:flowers:, reliable:saluting:. You could leave it ticking over while we all sit round it drinking tea with digestives.

It's a good winch brake or rather splended cluch controll:wow:

The old ones ca be set up on the third pushrod similar to setting valve clearences only it's set with a inch pounds torque wrench. Been a long while since i saw anyone play with one though.