rbrtcrowther

You'll have to catch me first:pfrt: No chance with a propper Meadows up front:cool2: beat that yank rubbish hands down:-D

Oh and happy Birthday You old git:banana::banana::banana::banana::thumbsup:

There is a meadows generator for sale in the back of stationary engine mag but no price. An American engine in a british truck? :shocked: You'll be using words like "muffler" and "aluminum" Is there enough room under the "Hood" for such a beast. Will the "tranny" be up to it. Still sorting out the registration on mine so no danger of being "sucked off in a ditch" here

Ah right ho:-)

Bummer on the engine front :embarrassed: Glad you've been having fun with it look forward to seeing the video :cool2:.......You did take a vidio?

I thought even two stroke diesels have an exhaust valve in each cylinder?

got some here too:D 9" deep but no the old landy is good for alot more on its Insa turbo tyres

loads of handy looking things for sale here. I will bookmark this site incase i win the lottery:D http://army-uk.info/index.php

There's not alot you can do with the larger cranes cos they move to slowly even at full throttle. Also seem to end up grabbing every lever except the one you want:nut: It's just dumped a load of snow here so will be out playing in the landy for a few days, Have a good one and post some more pics of the scammell Andy:cool2:

I often have to crane boats out on dock walls ect. Some of the dock walls are built and rated for such operation others are....well ......rather crumbly. So we sit there thinking "that boat is really heavy i need to get right up close but hang on that harbour wall looks really rubbish i need to stay away from the edge.....Great....here we go again:banghead:"

Just pottering around youtube and found this. Having spent about 13 years operating cranes in boat yards ect, I always find video like this brings home how quickly things can get out of hand. It appears the crane was not brought over by the weight of the load but the counter weight going over the side with the combined weight of the almost fully elevated jib. Even with the mats it went over backwards. Just listen to the Slew motor screaming as the super structure swings round. :shocked:Something went wrong... Perhaps a little more ground preperation might have been in order:blush:

just fitted 12 plys on my explorer too. not driven it far yet but when i removed an old 20 ply i let the air out before removing the wheel and i could have driven round on it. Not even any bulging at the bottom:shocked:

After several attempts Bill managed to put enough balance weight on to stop the viberation caused by the cheap tyres he got of ebay:D

Ello:wave: hows things up your end lately? Thought you would be posting somemore snow footage of the Scammell or are you to busy with a little bundel of joy:D

Got a forms from the DVLA today to apply for an age related number plate I also have no log book either. Anyhoo the man form the scammell register says all i need to do is send him a V55 ( don't seem to be able to find one of those so i assume it a V55/5 i need) together with a V765 and the chassis number and he will sort it all out. There are many parts of the V55/5 that i dont know know the answers too.. is this normal?:blush: I've been dreading this paperwork since i bought the bloomin thing without a log book:embarrassed: He says the registers records are a not compleat but he will have a look or give me the number of some military museum to try them. Just incase any one can help the Vehicle number is 35 BC 75 Chassis number 7081 Contract number 3724 If there is going to be one scammell missisng from the records you can bet it's going to mine and i'll end up having to pay bloomin road tax:embarrassed:

Well i'm glad it was the cap:-) When i have had even the slightest overheating problems it has always been something major like the headgasket or a dropped liner:embarrassed:

Er......don't want to worry you but a continuous hissing from the radiator cap could mean combustion gasses being blown into the water jacket:cry: Are the hoses rock hard too? It could just be the rad cap but it would lose water and boil over at a lower temp. The Cap may have failed the waters boiled and the head gaskets packed up. The rads gone on our old crane at work so we run it with the cap loose to stop it pressureizing and blowing the water out when it warms up and cools down. There is no hissing when up to temp in fact you can remove the cap with it running. It is also a V8 ,but a cummins V8 :cool2: With no exhausts either:evil:

I visit a few vintage rallys up and down the country as i have more of an interest in vintage stuff than military stuff. I have a few stationary engines an old landy and to be honest i bought the scammell cos i love the shape and the engineering behind its also one of the reasons i will be running it in civilian colours as it think the green is.....well....dull:blush: Wandering round the rally there are stationary engines restored and painted, some just running as found. There are buses and lorrys, steamers, cars, tractors. All in various states but mostly in good mechanical condition. But i have seen the same stuff over and over for many years at various different locations and there is one section that seems to have a a bit of a noticable maintenance issue.:-( The military Section. Don't Get me wrong there are alot of great examples out there but there seems to be more.....errr.... less well looked after examples that turn up year after year. I even find myself looking to see if the owners have repaired any of the things that were wrong the previous year. Some have not seen a grease gun for years. I often wonder if some of the vehicles are just a military accessory to complete the necessary inmage. There is a land rover something that looks aufull and i'm paying to see it year after year I've never seen the owner but honest to god it's about time someone had a word about it. Even the army painted their stuff once in a while :argh:

It does sound like the viscous coupling has packed up. With the engine cold and revving at about 1000 rpm the fan should sort of free wheel and as the water warms up the air the fan is gently pulling through the radiator will warm up the fan bi metal strip moving a little valve in the hub and the fan will lock up and turn the same speed as the water pump pully. Have a feel of the bottom hose too if it is the same temp as the top hose there is not enough air cooling the rad if it's cold the water ain't circulating. most viscous units will be stiff to turn before the engine is started cos the fluid will have pooled in the bottom of the unit. when the engine is started and reved the fan will roar for a moment as the fluid is spun out with centrifugal force and then it will go into freewheel. hope this helps god luck and mind your fingers:D

All is now sorted apart from a pair of mirrors:D ( The timber work on the rear will be sorted as and when i have the funds so for now it will be running a tad light) Halogen headlights with side lights built in, indcators, Butler sidlights,flashing beacon and even a window wiper thingy:cool2: Had too much electricty at first 32 volts made the lights very bright:wow: Have reset the regulator box to about 27 volts, it will hold this down to a fast tick over. tick over gives about 25volts and will hold this when light are turned on. Voltage rises back to 27 volts with revs and everything turned on. Is this ok? not had much experience with dynamos and the truck has a Bosh regulator box fitted in place of the scammell unit but the same shaft driven dynamo is fitted. It's easy to adjust the output just wonder what the best setting is without boiling batterys. Any thoughts?

It may just be a bit sticky with standing. turn and hold the key on for a few seconds, If there is a click and the lights go out or dim there may be a bad main connection (Battery leads) , A flat Battery or the starter is pulling huge current and needs to be looked at. The ignition lights should come back on when you release the key. ( Holding the key in the start position for a couple of seconds may make the the bad conection hot so you can find it ) If there is a klick and the light go out compleatly and stay off when you release the key you have a bad connection usually on a battery lead. If you get a click and the lights stay bright with the key held in start positon the starter is dodgy. i would give it a tap with a hammer then try again you might find it will click when you try the key again. If there are two of you one hold the key in start the other give the startar a slap with a small hammer. If you can get it clicking when you turn the key try flicking the key for a while it might just come to life. If you still have no joy jab a screwdriver accross the big contacts on the solanoid and see if it spins over. Just make sure it's not in gear :cool2:

My mate had interesting electrical things going on with his 101 and it was all down mainly to shoddy wireing under the dash on the front bulkhead. I think there is a fuse box under there from memory but it was some years ago. Lots of loose spade conectors and hot rubbish fuse conections. wipers would stop for no reason even the engine cut out a few times but it took ages to find the faults cos it would all work perfect when we came back with the test meter:nut:

Yes of course it is and the missing fuel tank and i'm sure there is supposed to be an outrigger for the crane about half way down the side too all just "cosmetic"

Nice clean book....Least it won't leave greasy marks on the duvet when you read it in bed:D

Might be a tad on the large side but i could help you lenthen the bonnet:D