Gordon_M

The only thing that could possibly make that tractor look better would be to go to symettrical headlight grilles with a piggyback blackout headlight, that would just finish it off.

I never did understand the preference for open cabs, that closed cab looks so much better. If only I could have afforded the extra license I'd have been interested in an artic unit,but not now.too many snow tractors to finish.

I see it has the cutouts for the artillery axle clearance in the side coaming, not many originals left with those. Seems to have all the necessary bits. I don't have anything much left here since I sold 14962 to Rex, but feel free to ask advice. I expect Simon Bromley would be your closest DUKW expert in Blackburn?

You could almost see that nailed to the wall of a lighthouse, and used for sending out different coded flashes rather than Morse signals I'll bet the part and type numbers don't show up in a search because it would have been secret for most of it's life, even though it is a fairly basic piece of kit.

US to me. There ar several series of small trailers you just never see here. I've seen a couple of very similar units on E-Bay in the US, most were Signal Corps or Army Air Corps. Unfortunately I never kept any images. Might find them in TM-9-2800 or whatever that listing book of standard military equipment is. Look at it - it is nice and neat and clean, straight handles, panels, towbar - I doubt a captured lump of equipment would ever be that neat.

It's been done, I think. I believe the Budge diesel Stolly had four viscous couplings on each of the four 'corner' wheel drive units. Only the centre axle was driven directly as original. Anyone ?

Fuel system overhaul time. Things you need to do include; Get hold of a spare big dash fuel filter setup, and strip / clean it to swap on - notice I don't say clean the one that is on there, as some part will ALWAYS break if you try that. Best to have a good one to swap on, and then you can bench-recondition the original and put it back on the shelf for later. Buy two new sets of fuel hoses, fit one set, and store the other set on the vehicle. The original ' armored ' hoses tend to fail internally and block or strangle the fuel flow - can lead to the situation you describe. The other failure mode is for the hoses up near the dash filter, the high point in the fuel system, to go porous and draw air, which allows the fuel to drain back down into the tank. Worth noting if you always have to hand-prime even after an overnight stop. Buy a spare fuel pump, stow on vehicle. Clean tank and lines. When you have done that lot once you should never have to do it again, except for draining and checking the dash filter per the book.

I think they've got it. You'd need a camper that was heavy enough to have a heavy enough weight limit for your Ford + trailer, and there won't be many that don't come with extra license requirements. There are a lot of legal issues about using tow dollies and drawbars for anything other than local emergency recovery too, so you are thinking the right way, just not sure you have the weights to hand. An off-the wall solution would be to find something like a used beavertail recovery unit and drop a caravan / camper van body on it, while still leaving space to put the Ford in the back. You could load, drive, unload, and then have the inside set up as a dropdown camper. Much less hassle.

I don't have a spare Dave, but I assume you know that any 39-47 Dodge military hard cab screen will go straight on, and any 39-47 Dodge civilian screen can be adapted by fitting the side-slide brackets and changing the wind up screw holes out for the single clamp pin? These screens always go at the bottom edge, inside, and if you have to you can piece in a bit from a spare top section into the bottom rail. If you are no further forward, try Bert's " WW2 Dodge Forum " or even the 39-47 Dodge Group on Yahoo, but good screens are scarce. Gordon

Hanno changed the server a few months back ( he's on here as McSpool ) It's up and running at the minute but I can't cut and paste the address link or I'd do so. GOOGLE search should get you the new address.

I'm sure the heavier construction of a CMP chassis would have required a special, but this would have been no problem, remember Dodge were producing chassis on both sides of the border so a chassis plant would have knocked one out in a day. At this time they were prototyping half a dozen chassis length variations for the T214 series in the US. Since the back springs, axle, suspension, and body mounts could be the same as the ordinary D15 it probably involved no more than shortening a T222 D15 chassis. Front axle, wheels, and brakes same as conventional, steering column angle changed, engine accessories and controls altered for cab over configuration, but probably borrowed a cab as that would involve a lot more cost / time to make up.

Big favourite would be water penetration of the electrics, either the wiring to the ECU or the ECU connections themselves, given the range of problems it is showing. Find out where in the car they have hidden it, and check for saturated carpets, wiring, and connections in the immediate vicinity. It will be a five minute fix, but will need the man with the machine, dealer, and / or £££

Afternoon Hanno, how's things? As I understand it Dodge must have been in the CMP production trials, but the powers-that-be decided that while Ford and Chev had the production capacity for CMP trucks, Dodge's capacity would be better used on the conventional cab type. If Dodge had not been involved in cab 11 and cab 12 prototyping I can't see them getting on board for a cab 13 prototype, as by the time the cab 13 came out they were surely already tooling up for conventional cab production - maybe even already started. No evidence, of course, just thinking. Unfortunately Colin's image isn't really good enough for detailed examination which might tell us a bit more. Vaguely possible it isn't a Dodge at all but a Ford or Chev that has had a Dodge badge stuck on it, but that is idle speculation. Back to the grindstone here.

D15 T222 Engineering code only came as cargo or water tank, a few of the survivors have been tankers at one time ( that cab plate will say WATR - bit of a giveaway ) but converted to cargo by addition of a CMP back body. Apart from the cab plate the other identifier is the chequer plate covers over the fuel tanks on the water tankers ( ordinary cargo truck didn't need them ) There are a couple of images of the water tanker on those thumbnails above. The flat front CMP Dodge is interesting, though Colin McGregor-Stevens only had that one image of it. To start with, the image shows a non-driven front axle, so it too is a 'D15' ( Dodge, 15 cwt, 4 x 2 ) it is just forward control rather than conventional. If you think about it, it is a 13 cab, which rather suggests that Dodge was prototyping CMP trucks for the 11 and 12 cabs too. If it follows standard CMP rules it will have a standard body, Dodge chassis, engine, transmission and CMP style cab, but I'm not sure if Dodge would have bothered to construct a cab for it or just borrowed one from Chev or Ford. I'd expect the engine, transmission, axles, and wheels to be exactly the same as the conventional D15 except for small modifications to things like carb, aircleaner, and starter to suit the cabover configuration. In the end, CMP production stayed Chev and Ford, and Dodge got on with producing conventional cab D15 and D60 in huge quantities.

Looks like a good deal at that price, beating them off with a stick as has been mentioned. The one thing you would absolutely have to do is get your head round all the slat grille variations before you bought any parts for it. The correct parts will be rare and expensive, you'd only want to buy the right thing - once Might be worth checking the chassis number to see if it is a slat grille range unit, but at that price it is still a deal. Gordon

Hello Craig, welcome you'll find the oil industry's preference for UNC and UNF very useful on the jeep, as you doubtless did on the Harley. Gordon

That looks like a lot of work and a lot of cost, but turn that round and you are doing all the work once, and you are doing it properly, so you should never have to look at it again. I've no experience with that engine, so nothing much to add, except that the 6-71 still seems to be a popular engine so I expect the whole process may end up being less painful than a petrol engined equivalent, and of course cheaper to run long term.

Gary, I've never seen anything at 72oC in Glasgow, surely some mistake. I'm not 100% sure, but the standard 2" round repro has adapters that fit Dodge and jeep, may well fit the CMP head too. Can you compare that sender unit with abroken jeep or Dodge one? Off to the wilds of Uddingston tomorrow and then back up to Aberdeen - no time to work on the toys. Gordon

Very nice, as usual, good to have the images linked to videos too. The idea of Dennis on opposite lock through some mud is .... interesting :cool2:

That's a borderline thing. The WIKI gives a jeep kerb weight at around 1100Kg, a suitable trailer, like an Ifor Williams LT105, weighs not less than 500Kg, even the size below that, the LT85, is 450Kg. The current Focus 1.6 Diesel has a range of maximum towed weights from 1200Kg to 1500Kg, so you would really have to nail the maximum towed weight of braked trailer your particular model car would tow, take 1100Kg off that, and find a trailer that weighed the same or less than the difference. You'd probably have to find some real lightweight ( = expensive ) trailer, preferably two axle to avoid too much hitch weight - hence my mention of the Ifors. If you are thinking of moving it, as far as I know it is illegal to use a tow dolly for anything other than recovery of a broken-down or damaged vehicle, and putting it on an A-frame behind the Focus turns into a world of pain depending on whether or not you have a driver in the towed vehicle ( taxed, MOT'd, insured, etc etc ) or if you are towing it empty in which case it would be an 'unbraked trailer' and over the 750 Kg limit. At the minute you might be better off negotiating a deal with a local beavertail Transit owner, and long-term you might want to make sure that the replacement for the Focus has as much trailer weight capacity as you can get. There is a very handy forum for this sort of question; http://www.ukpoliceonline.co.uk/index.php?/forum/25-roads-policing/ ... but I expect if you ask there you'll get much the same sort of answer as I've summarized above.

.... and copied back across from MLU this morning; ------------------------------------------------------------ [TABLE=class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center] [TR] [TD=class: alt1, bgcolor: #F1F1F1]Thanks for letting me know about the wee glitch and am looking into it. In the meantime for all those having this problem just pm your email to me and I'll send a Paypal invoice for your order. Let me know your order details please ie shipping address and a telephone no. as the courier service I use ask for that. They also ask for Company Address but I put in Universal Carriers for that! Its becoming a big organisation!!lol Thanks Nigel __________________ He that blaws in the stour fills his ain e'en [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

I'll copy that to Nigel for you, no problem. He is normally to be found on the Maple Leaf Up Forum, in the Carrier section, of course, if you want to communicate directly with him. Later .... Duly copied across. Nigel's book thread is on the FOR SALE OR TRADE section on MLU Forum Gordon

I think there's just room for a Thorny on the end there :cool2:

That's good, I was just thinking that if that plate had been a cheap copy it would probably be a lot crisper and tidier than that .... Typically these plates would be be cast brass, in quantity, and just a stamp or two - exactly what I see there. No idea of the date though, it's quite possible it is as late as WW2 maybe? In particular I wouldn't expect the wood, particularly the wheels, to be as good as it is, if it was a hundred years old rather than a mere seventy.

Yes, that one is definitely in the bin, it is the ordinary full length hose, rather than the later modification which had provision for wire protection. It will not want to come off easily, they never do. They are a bit like exhaust systems in that one bit blows and you replace it, then you find every bit you are trying to connect to could really do with replacing as well. On the assumption that you are keeping the truck I'd start thinking about spare copper washers for the union joints, maybe about replacing some of the solid pipes. Buy at least a pair of front hoses and take Rex's advice as to what small spares to have on hand. The only encouragement I can offer is that it is a lot easier to re-plumb a GMC than a DUKW, and I did a DUKW all on my own, just one piece at a time. I'm not sure if that GMC has it too, but there might be an isolation tap for the front brakes on the chassis side under the passengers feet. I wouldn't be surprised to find it had been shut off and you are just braking on the back axles. If it will close easily it will save you a lot of bleeding when fitting your new front hoses.