fv1609

I think its a Bendix Type B-16

I expect you have seen this where Land Rovers were put to work with good effect: I remember seeing some of these at Charlie Mann's Museum at Gweek, Cornwall in the 1970s. Charlie is no longer with us & nor the museum.

Peter welcome, the magic words for me "another Humber Pig". I wonder what the military registrations were, as I can help with very basic history. Pictures would be of great interest, in case I have seen them in an earlier role. What state are they in? Starting issues? Did it run since you've had it & then packed up or was it bought as a non-runner?

Yes well spotted that man :-D What I meant to say was to turn the engine over to the next time that No.1 was at TDC

Ok so you have got EMEI (AUST) VEHICLE N 403, I think it is telling you the same as in TSD 702 but that confuses the issue with a preamble about having previously set the point gaps on No.1, it then moves on to adjusting from No. 6. The segment method is described in EMER POWER S 523. You have to watch it as there are diagrams for No. 1 Mk 2 & Mk 2/1 for both that differ slightly & equivalent Mk 2 & Mk 2/1 for 8-cylindeer as well. I think there is something odd on the Pig B60 in that it hasn't got a panel to see the timing marks. I've not had to set the synchro, but after 4 head changes I quite often loose where I am. So when assembled I put a coat hanger in No.1 cylinder feel when it is sort of TDC then rotate the rotor arm on shaft to point to No. 1 in the cap. Then try running it, if it doesn't run then I turn the distributor through 360 degrees. When it runs & is warmed up I adjust the timing for best smooth running. I've never done flywheel marks, strobes, points opening & lights on/off. Modern fuel is not the same as it was in the 1950s so setting things to those standards seems to me to be a bit inappropriate in this day & age.

Jim you say you have a Mk 2 (Lucas) but that doesn't have a felt pad that is only on the Mk 2/1 (Delco-Remy) I think are right to get it going as best you can as nature intended. I would feel uneasy introducing something new into the system in the hope of making everything alright. Change it once it is sort of running then you will have the satisfaction of seeing the improvement. I favour doing things one stage at a time, just suppose there was some issue with the module then you have two issues to sort out & one complicates the diagnosis of the other. What are you working from an EMER WHEELED VEHICLES or an EMER POWER? The detail varies between them.

PS Mark DMZ6A without a suffix is just the model number that might have a range of different advance curves that can only be identified by the part no. eg 4045A. Sometimes a particular model is recognised & assumed to be the correct item, but the part no. is all important to define it. For example the DZS4A is fitted to FFR Land Rovers & these are bought & fitted with conviction. But there are about 20 different types of advance curves within the DZS4A range used not just in Land Rovers, but the Morris engine in Centurions, the generator for Rapier etc

Although these are covered in VAOS Section MT8 it gives no indication of purpose, whereas RAF Vocabularies usually do. Looking in AP21515E MT Electrical Equipment Section 16E the entries for QL are: Maker's part no. 40033A Model DZ6A-P29/1 Maker's part no. 40033B (amended to 40523) Model DZ6A-P34 QLR Makers part no. 412157 Model DBX6A/P45

Just a guess Bowman Power Distribution Unit?

Jim just checking, which distributor do you have No.1 Mk 2 or No.1 Mk 2/1 Which EMER are you working from?

Jim yes that will happen for a very short time as one pair just opens as the other is just about to close. Are the points synchronised? Are there still blobs of paint on the locking screws? If not it suggests someone has been meddling & mucked it up.

There are some lists here: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?7897-Post-War-British-Army-Markings

That made me chuckle, I am sure you are right that it would appeal to many modellers. There seems to be no limit to national pride as there is a propensity for restored vehicles to display the national symbol irrespective of the theatre that they wish to represent. The original purpose in displaying these symbols was embodied in Equipment Regulations 1959 Amendment No.2 June 1960 implementing NATO Standard STANAG 2027 "National distinguishing symbols. These symbols will be used only in those theatres under NATO command where forces of two or more nations are operating." At the time the Union Jack transfer was to be 6in x 4in but this was amended to 6in x 3in in 1971. I can't recall having seen a picture of Saladin in service so marked. Although I am not a modeller I have to say I am in awe of your skill & attention to detail. I look forward to perhaps one day seeing a Humber Pig given the same meticulous attention. Perhaps a FV1609 would be novel or even a production Mk 1, but I think Mk 2 gets a bit over played.

The assumption of Class seems perfectly reasonable, but I appreciate Ron you are looking for specific instructions that they will be marked in a particular way. This is all I can offer & it would seem reasonable that vehicles would be marked with the Class that was easily identifiable. However there is no "A" sub-class. I just wonder whether the suffix might indicate what kit was provided with the vehicle?

Fred some of the more common ones are on here: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?445-British-Military-Oils-and-Lubricants

Steve there is some coverage here: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?52808-All-Charged-Up-4-Latest-Version

Their advert is a little curious quoting White BSC381C. BSC381C is a standard for colours for ready mixed paints, not a particular shade, which incidentally does not include white. Although it is included in BS4800.

Richard I don't think you will find that there is such a paint as NATO White. There would be no need for NATO to define a paint that requires no IRR properties. The point of IRR paints is to mimic the IRR behaviour of the chlorophyll in foliage, which will be minimal under snow conditions. Perhaps you had in mind UN White? Because there is such a product, the white for UN Purposes is high gloss & shade BS4800 Colour No. 00 E 55 H1/8010-99-910-6722 Def Stan 80-50 Brushing 5 litres H1/8010-99-220-2359 Def Stan 80-50 Spraying 5 litres In all the Regulations on painting the diff or parts of it white there is no indication beyond it being "white". The nearest we get to it is in AESP 0200-A-211-013 Painting of Service Equipment, Section 37.2 "Convoy plates to be painted with Paint, Finishing, White". Not a great help as that is available in gloss and matt. Given the position of the diff & ease of cleaning, if you happen to have a choice then gloss would be the best.

BSC381C Golden Yellow No.356 Deep Bronze Green No.224

I go along with that. All hobbies are at risk particularly if you engage in anything a little bit different. I have PLI to cover myself for walking along the beach with a metal detector.

I suppose you could always paint the broomstick orange to indicate that it had been deactivated by the removal of the brush?

Very nearly Chris, it is a No.1 Mk III :-D

Yes well none Chris sorry I can't do this in fancy text. In a Chinese takeaway on the phone thought we were eating at home.For bonus points have you got model and mark?

Nope not that Tony.