Chris Hall

The D and B GPMG was made by a member here and it’s as near to the real thing apart from a deac as you will ever get. He may be able to make a budget version. The Brens are a good buy, shame they are welded solid now.

Yes, there was an article in one of the BMW mags about 15 years ago about the blocks used in the 2002 bat mobile and later M3. They were left outside for months and staff were incouaged to pee on them to accelerate the stress relieving qualities of time and rust lol.

Gladys will also eat metal, it’s been a known issue in Aircraft for decades. and it stinks....

The above is a rifle so not very big and also not easily mounted as a MG. the 1919a4 .30 cal is better suited as we Brits used a conversion known as the L3.

To be honest I’d sell it, it’s a poor looking replica and wouldn’t pass the 20 foot test. I’d stick to a GPMG, a full infantry spec gun on a mount would look the business and be more in keeping with your vehicle. It’s also about 18” shorter than a 50 so much easier to fit and remove.

And the way they change the laws every year is ridiculous. You can buy a legal EU spec deac this year that by next year is illegal because they changed the spec and made it retrospective.

So what tank is it you have?

Tank guns is quite a generic term. If your talking WW2 Allied, you need a 1919A4 or .50 M2HB for an American/Canadian Tank and for British you need a BESA. There were other guns used on armour such as the Vickers .303, Vickers .5, Bren, Vickers K, 1917A1, .50 M2AC and M2WC etc. post war British is going to be BESA, GPMG or Browning 1919A4/Later converted to L3A2. what armour have you got?

The GPMG is probably the finest machine gun ever made. Better than a Bren (And for me to say that it has to be good) and superior to the MG42 etc. If you gave a squady the option of any machine gun, that would be it.

That’s a shame but at least it wasn’t lost and you can’t blame the old boy for......getting old.

I had a number of NOS rims that came in Matt black as spares and labled as such. I also have a NOS DU42 lamp that has matching rim and shell so any combo could have been possible. I’ve also seen gas detector paint on the top of the lamps carried out IAW an EMER in late 1940?

That chain case rubber seal is narrower than the one I received. I see it’s sitting along the edge of the back case. I had to trim back to that edge so I wonder if I got one for a wider case? Maybe a double width chain. I should have questioned it!

Can you not cut the broken section out and bridge with a suitable piece of rubber pipe? You then have a flexible piece with some give so it wouldn’t snap again.

I’ve a feeling the rib on my mudguard extends a long way but the number plate has been tightened on to it and flattened the rim. I’ll try and get a photo of it. Ron, I found the Hitchcocks seal to wide for my cases as I could assemble the footrest crossbar correctly with out distorting the outer case. I compared it to the original and found it about 5mm wider. I trimmed off 5mm with a scalpel, not pretty but it was out of site.

If there was a very small batch ordered of any bike in ww2 for the WD there would still be a record and contract. Seeing as even experimental bikes and a few test samples were still recorded on contract, i.e. the RE lightweight 350 then I would say someone has got confused. Also the yanks would have used the Harley or Indian chief or even a jeep No way would they buy British, they wouldn’t even buy the RR Merlin, they made it them selves under license. Could it be an Indian Chief motorcycle that the owner has confused with Enfield India now called Royal Enfield???

I don’t really know Army Forms but judging by the red label, I think it’s Possibly U/S.

Extract from a thread on the Carter. This is the problem I think you have. The poster is the guy who fixed mine for me. The housing came back bushed to spec and a nice new park finish as original (not painted). : Carburetor question Quote Post Mon Oct 06, 2014 4:39 am Considering this latest info, your problem may not necessarily be the plate. Instead, check the throttle shaft for wear. If it mic's out at less than .310", it probably needs to be replaced. Check the area of the shaft that passes through the body. If you can, mic the passages themselves. Greater than .3125" suggests you may need bushings. These shafts/housings wear into an egg shape and allow a vacuum leak which necessitates choke usage to maintain an idle. A quick check is to spray, in short bursts, starting fluid at these points while the motor is at its best warm idle. A change in RPM will tell you of the leak. scoutoh6@outlook.com

This sounds like it may be a worn butterfly valve axis in the body. I had my body rebored and bushed by Scoutpilot in the USA. Simple way to see is to spray an accelerent next to the axis pin and see if the revs pick up. Lighter fluid works.

It’s another step to having them banned and confiscated without the Government or EU paying compensation.

Nice collection of whiskey, looks like it gets a lot of use too.

I don’t think they were to concerned at the factory as when I rebuilt the export CO engine there was swarf in one of the oil ways that feeds oil to the back of the piston. Probably not a problem with new oil but old oil had clogged it solid. It would explain why the bike came without a piston and cylinder to.

Hate to say it but it’s Probably best not to say anything! Pre 2016 prices were about £1200 to £1500 with Tripod, T&E. I picked up a 1919A6 dressed as an A4 back in 2015 for £750 and then spent a further £200 returning to A6 spec (still need a butt). I would not be surprised if a new spec gun would be in a similar price range but with even less interest.

LED is different but the MOT rules above (I know this vehicle is exempt) state the light source must be compatible with the lamp. It also states a light source could be a bulb, LED or HID unit. So it could be down to interpretation or some could say it’s black and white.

Here’s what I was referring to. I have heard (no evidence to support though) that any MOT exempt vehicle should be still capable of passing an MOT. If it can’t, your insurance may be invalid and the Police may prosecute.

It’s more the beam pattern of head lights that fail. If the lens is designed for a halogen and not LED the beam may be blinding to on coming drivers.