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Hair Bear

Range Rover advice please

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Cheers!

I know there's a fair chance that won't be the sole reason for the problem but at least when I get the faults cleared there's less risk of one door slam and be back where I started.

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SRS faults lights  on both P38 and the Disco are a pain in the rear. There is a tendency for them to come on if you alter the passenger front seat . Unplug yellow wire under seat count about thirty and re connect, that will often clear the light. There is reams about it on the various Landy forums. 

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We're off and running!

All it failed on was the SRS (reset), a sticky brake (cleaned), and the exhaust (Swiss cheese). All done now and on the road.

Still lots to tinker with but enjoying using it. Thanks for the input.

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Hi chaps, all was going well until I broke it.

One of the front drive shaft ujs started rattling, so I hought the best thing was to drop the shaft off before it broke loose. Anyhow, it drove home ok but while removing the shaft on the side of the road the two halves slid apart. Daft thing is, I now can't get them back together so is there a trick to this? I'm sure I've got the yolkes paralell and the splines have engaged but it won't go more than about an inch.

Any ideas please??

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Never done This your on your Own..... lol

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On ‎7‎/‎26‎/‎2018 at 12:36 AM, Hair Bear said:

I now can't get them back together so is there a trick to this? I'm sure I've got the yolkes paralell and the splines have engaged but it won't go more than about an inch.

Possible solution here:-

http://www.marlinownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?4592-Hunter-Prop-shaft-sliding-joint-which-doesn-t-slide-help-advice-please

Also, check that there isn't any foreign matter in the tube, especially between the splines.

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Hi Chaps,

John, it's the shaft from the transfer box to the front axle with open joints.

Fuzee, interesting link. I'm told there is a tiny weld somewhere to stop  the splines being assembled out of line so failing that I'll take out the grease nipple and see if that solves it.

Thanks all.

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Check the manual but from distant memory the shaft is assembled with the joints out of alignment, there is a small dimple on the joint or shaft which indicates the correct position.

Edited by radiomike7

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All back together now, and yes the shaft only goes back together about 1 spline out of line.

Thanks for the help.

Rob.

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Now, questions about wheel nuts!

The nuts were originally 27mm, but corrosion has expanded the caps so some of the caps had to be removed. Now I'm looking to replace all of them and it's not as simple as I thought.

A quick scan around the internet brings up 27mm and 19mm hex nuts both apparently suitable for a P38 on alloys, the 19's being about half the price.

Then a query to a parts supplier tells me there is also 24mm, and two different stud sizes!

I'm fairly sure I have the smaller studs, so has anyone else successfully used the 19mm nuts?

Thoughts please!!!

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I just bought the ones from island 4x4 

pound each I think. 

Just checked £1.75 plus vat. The ones for genuine alloys

Edited by lowfat

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