Hair Bear Posted November 22, 2017 Author Share Posted November 22, 2017 Cheers! I know there's a fair chance that won't be the sole reason for the problem but at least when I get the faults cleared there's less risk of one door slam and be back where I started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 On 21/11/2017 at 10:34 PM, Hair Bear said: On a slightly different tack, do you HAVE to remove the manifold to get to the glowplugs, or is it just easier? Thanks. Yes. Nice step by step guide:- http://www.land-rover-blog.co.uk/how-to-change-the-glow-plugs-on-a-diesel-range-rover-p38/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hair Bear Posted November 23, 2017 Author Share Posted November 23, 2017 Good one, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 SRS faults lights on both P38 and the Disco are a pain in the rear. There is a tendency for them to come on if you alter the passenger front seat . Unplug yellow wire under seat count about thirty and re connect, that will often clear the light. There is reams about it on the various Landy forums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hair Bear Posted February 20, 2018 Author Share Posted February 20, 2018 Gave it a bit of a swill, doesn't look too bad. I just need to find time to get it roadworthy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hair Bear Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 We're off and running! All it failed on was the SRS (reset), a sticky brake (cleaned), and the exhaust (Swiss cheese). All done now and on the road. Still lots to tinker with but enjoying using it. Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hair Bear Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 Hi chaps, all was going well until I broke it. One of the front drive shaft ujs started rattling, so I hought the best thing was to drop the shaft off before it broke loose. Anyhow, it drove home ok but while removing the shaft on the side of the road the two halves slid apart. Daft thing is, I now can't get them back together so is there a trick to this? I'm sure I've got the yolkes paralell and the splines have engaged but it won't go more than about an inch. Any ideas please?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowfat Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 Never done This your on your Own..... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john1950 Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 Do you mean the cv joint has come off the end of the drive shaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 On 7/26/2018 at 12:36 AM, Hair Bear said: I now can't get them back together so is there a trick to this? I'm sure I've got the yolkes paralell and the splines have engaged but it won't go more than about an inch. Possible solution here:- http://www.marlinownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?4592-Hunter-Prop-shaft-sliding-joint-which-doesn-t-slide-help-advice-please Also, check that there isn't any foreign matter in the tube, especially between the splines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hair Bear Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 Hi Chaps, John, it's the shaft from the transfer box to the front axle with open joints. Fuzee, interesting link. I'm told there is a tiny weld somewhere to stop the splines being assembled out of line so failing that I'll take out the grease nipple and see if that solves it. Thanks all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiomike7 Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 (edited) Check the manual but from distant memory the shaft is assembled with the joints out of alignment, there is a small dimple on the joint or shaft which indicates the correct position. Edited July 28, 2018 by radiomike7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hair Bear Posted August 5, 2018 Author Share Posted August 5, 2018 All back together now, and yes the shaft only goes back together about 1 spline out of line. Thanks for the help. Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hair Bear Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 Now, questions about wheel nuts! The nuts were originally 27mm, but corrosion has expanded the caps so some of the caps had to be removed. Now I'm looking to replace all of them and it's not as simple as I thought. A quick scan around the internet brings up 27mm and 19mm hex nuts both apparently suitable for a P38 on alloys, the 19's being about half the price. Then a query to a parts supplier tells me there is also 24mm, and two different stud sizes! I'm fairly sure I have the smaller studs, so has anyone else successfully used the 19mm nuts? Thoughts please!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowfat Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 (edited) I just bought the ones from island 4x4 pound each I think. Just checked £1.75 plus vat. The ones for genuine alloys Edited September 16, 2018 by lowfat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hair Bear Posted September 23, 2018 Author Share Posted September 23, 2018 Thanks, I'll let you know what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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