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Diana and Jackie

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Everything posted by Diana and Jackie

  1. Liquid Paraffin is a mineral oil, not the best thing to put on rubber (depending on the rubber of course) The best safe thing for rubber is silicon oil/grease. Diana
  2. A CVR(T) fitted with a J60 engine, which is to all intents and purposes an E type engine/XJ6 engine, when fitted in a car has a 12V nominal 66AH battery. Therefore two 12 volt batteries in series @66AH is more than adequate (Cranking amps unknown), however 770A seems to be recommended @12V AGM cells info = https://nyln.org/agm-batteries-pros-and-cons-list Diana
  3. I shopped around and bought a pair of https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/x2-varta-j3-6tn-promotive-black-battery.html In my opinion they are far superior to the cheaper 6tn, a pair of which I have. I use a pair of Varta blue batteries on my Ferret, after 7 years they are still going strong. Diana
  4. Why don't you have the service manual? It's the first thing anyone buying a MV should get after buying the vehicle. If you don't have the manual (provided you can get one), and there are plenty available for the Fox, then you will have a problem looking after it and resolving problems.
  5. Lots of antifreeze? how much is lots ? is it 50/50 ? because if its more than 50/50 that maybe the cause. Get a device for measuring the ratio and do a proper check. Diana
  6. http://www.ptsnorfolk.co.uk/product.php/5712324/ BUT check its the correct lead for the particular headset you have. It appears clansman parts/spares are drying up :-( Diana
  7. The core is indeed a filler and not a conductor. No matter what a new lead is quicker, and easier than messing about trying to repair this Diana
  8. Buy a new lead off ebay, don't bother messing about. Diana
  9. Helston Gunsmiths ? - but take out a bank loan first. Diana
  10. Superglue...Bostik, Evostik breakdown with age. They were probably vulcanised on. Diana
  11. Remove the runflat insert, use the correct size inner tube. You will also need a rim band, there are rim bands and rim bands, the correct rim band is thickened where the tube valve protrudes through it, since the cutout in a Ferret rim is quite wide and long. The thickening supports the tube valve stem. Diana
  12. It's your Ferret as a few have said. One point to bear in mind, If/When you come to sell it you may have a few problems. People like to buy as near as original as possible. Diana
  13. http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?54666-CVRT-Final-Drive-Seal
  14. Really Useful and relatively cheap copper tube lug crimper Durite 0-703-90 Diana
  15. Item 24 shows the seal, its a standard synthetic rubber seal along with its dimensions - so you should be able to get one at a seal supplier or online. Diana
  16. Why have you not got the spare parts manual (common items)? That would answer a lot of your questions. Diana
  17. The Xmod did have quill shaft seals, as I bought a pair! but check against The Alvis Part number not the FV/NSN number. There is also a tool to remove the final drive, a hinged bar which screws into the large bolt hole above the final drive, supported at the opposite end by a jack, a chain is slung over the bar and fixed to the two oil drain hole. guide pins are screwed into the hull through the final drive and the drive is slid along the bar when unbolted. Diana
  18. Successfully used T wash on electro tin plate - depends what is meant by tin plate..as detailed below. Diana
  19. Compared to genuine 2 pack it's no match. Genuine 2 pack will prime anything it will etch using a spray gum brush or roller. Diana
  20. Try :- http://www.speedycables.com/ Just up the road from me. I've visited their factory, a well run organisation making cables and repairing speedometers of all kinds including jeep speedos. Diana
  21. In the PDF :- http://www.rememuseum.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Craftsman-MARCH-2016.pdf Diana
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