Diana and Jackie

I'm afraid to say keeping these going is a battle of it's own. I'd tend to agree with the ballast resistor diagnosis. Drivers plate off for that.and info from Green Machine Surplus - CVRT Scorpion Electric Systems. Diana

In good working order with a plug and lead £35 (how many do you see with a plug and pre-wired ? - not many)- buyer to arrange collection as neccessary Please send me a private message if interested. Diana Diana

Fuel prices still dropping like a stone 🙂

Self Isolating ...:-( I retired from work years ago 🙂

I'm champing at the bit, after doing some major overhaul work and petrol being as low here as £1.02 a litre, I can't even go for a test drive. I anticipate a minimum of a 3 month lock down if people play by the rules, but they aren't so that is going to make it longer. 😞

An electric tank is the way ahead for the future 😂😂😂😂, electric tractors ploughing fields and electric combine harvesters 😂😂

The petrol pump filter is easily available on Ebay. I fitted an extra CAV/Delphi filter in the fuel line as contaminant was passing through the other 2 filters - works a treat. Diana

Needs a de-rust and paint ! 😎 You did ask !

Genuine NOS, unused, black oil can, as provided to Ferret and other vehicles as part of their CES. NSN 4930 99 801 2613 Dated 1973 Picture to follow later. This is a rare item! Can with removable filler funnel £40 + postage. Please PM me if interested. Diana

BUMP

Fitting radios and a complete intercom system in a CVRT it's is a piece of cake 🙂 I've fitted 3 radios to mine , one of which was a Racal VRM 5080 (knocks the spots of a VRC 353)

I'm sure there are people buying these vehicles and realising very quickly they are out of their depth, as well as chancers trying it on to gullible people. I bought a Spartan little realising what problems I was taking on, luckily I am more than capable of sorting it out. There's a Shielder on ebay for £22k - honestly, a vehicle with a spares problem to start with including track that's hard to obtain. A 432 which has an asking price of more than a CVRT, is heavier, more difficult to work on - where's the sense in that? Diana

8 as new off Lucas Lamp Bases as fitted to Landrovers with a metal based glass lens. These are the light rings holding the lens of the side/indicator/stop &tail lenses fitted to LANDROVER with the metal screw in lens. They will not fit the glass lens found on Ferret and CVRT or some other vehicles. £50 plus postage for the 8 Please send me a private message - NOTE these do NOT fit the all glass lenses fitted to Ferret/CVRT and some other vehicles. Diana

10w30 for everything that needs oil. some people do use 15W40 in the engine.- all oil sshoul be mineral oil. The cheapest way is a 20 litre drum of ebay for about £45. Do not use semi synthetic or synthetic, especially in the gearbox. Diana

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Lucas-NOS-Land-Rover-Military-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector/133210776127?hash=item1f03fb223f:g:GuoAAOSwtYJdQ-v3

There is only one place to get info on CVRT that is worth trying - Green Machine surplus. This is what you want ...https://www.greenmachinesurplus.com/cvrt-scorpion-electrical-system-cvrt-165-p.asp But you will have to extract from it specifics regarding the Spartan. Diana

Yes Robin - that's the one! but not at their stupid price (before it was sold). Diana

Wanted drawbar/pintle/ rear towbar as fitted to CVRT rear to tow bar minelayer etc... PM please with price Diana

Hi Chris, That slotted nut spanner is for the final drive nut. Diana

Hi Richard, Made by a company called Garlock - still in existence. Not a big fan of steel lipped seals nor finger springs. Diana

The clutch seal fitted to the box was Viton, the seal inside the clutch was nitrile with finger spring! - yet more lazy bodging 🙂 the outer track of the clutch roller bearing was rotating in it's housing too - in all a nightmare job!

Hi Richard, I had a 1 metre 3/4" breaker bar standing on it and the lock ring would not move, even with a 1500Nm impact wrench it took 5 minutes to get the lock ring (on both sides) to move, I suspect depending on who overhauled the gearbox,( this was Belgian) you may or may not get a problem. You can also notice bodge marks on the large lock ring - not caused by me, clearly they had tried to get it off by bodging. You may notice that not even the oil seals were properly fitted, a bearing dust cap was fitted on both sides, one had come loose, had a steel backing and damaged the seal surface of the output coupling shaft, the output coupling shaft lock ring was loose as well which was causing the major oil leak and started off the whole repair. Incidentally the outer seals were nitrile - with finger springs - really old seals, and the inner seals were Viton, none of which makes the least bit sense! In all a right bodge, so I suggest anyone taking this job on needs to hope for the best and be prepared for the worst. Diana

T List of parts 8 Slotted nut (incorrectly numbered in spares book - should be 48?) 47 Tab Washer 46 Washer 45 O ring 44 O ring 43 Output Drive Coupling 42 Oil Seal 40 Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder 39 Bearing 38 Bearing Inner Spacee 37 Bearing Outer Spacer 36 Inner Lock Ring Retaining Tab Washer 35 Spacer 34 Steering Hub inner slotted lock ring 33 Steering Disc Hub 32 Oil seal 22 Gearbox Steering Hub Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder 23 Bearing 24 Spacer 25 Spacer 26 Roller Bearing 27 Roller Bearing outer track retainer 13 Steering hub drive Part 2 Replacing the inner seal. Having completed part 1 http://hmvf.co.uk/topic/40807-cvrt-gearbox-oil-seal-replacement-part-1/ The next stage is to replace the inner seal. Access to the inner seal can only be obtained by removing slotted lock ring item 34. THIS IS THE ONLY WAY TO ACCESS THE SEAL AND ANY BEARINGS BEHIND IT, it is essential that the lock ring is not damaged, it is also unlikely the lock ring can be removed by any form of bodging such as using a drift, screwdriver or chisel and any attempt using other methods. anything apart from the correct tool is likely to cause damage, rendering the removal of the locking ring next to impossible – you have been warned! To access the lock ring having removed the seal holder/bearing retainer, knock back in using a soft drift the drive shaft coupling. Once again pull out the drive shaft coupling and with luck the bearing item 39 will come out with it, if it does the bearing has to be pulled off the coupling for later reinsertion into the hub. If the bearing does not come out with the coupling it will have to be removed using a bearing insert extractor. The bearing is readily available and reasonably cheap. With the bearing removed spacers items 38,37,36 and 35 can be removed, a magnet is useful to remove item 35. With all the spacers removed the slotted lock ring should be removed, the only way, in my experience to remove this is using a castle socket impact wrench made specifically for the job and a 1500Nm air impact wrench, even a 1 meter breaker bar may not remove the lock ring. To prevent the hub turning fit 2 or 3 G clamps to the steering disc which will contact the still attached steering brake caliper whilst the lock ring is removed. With The lock ring slacked off upend the box as best it can be and remove the lock ring, once removed, remove the G clamps and the steering brake caliper. The hub is heavy ! There is no need to remove the steering brake disc. Using a 3 leg puller pull off the steering disc hub. Lift the hub clear, Item 24 will now have dropped making reinstallation of the hub difficult unless the hub and housing are on a flat surface The oil seal is now accessible and can be removed. Examine the seal surface on the hub for a groove using a finger nail, a shiny ring on the seal surface is acceptable. If there is a groove a speedy sleeve will have to be fitted. The replacement seal can now be fitted into item 22 or can be fitted later after item 22 is removed from the main gearbox, (see later) Item 22 has to be removed to reinsert the steering disc hub, Remove the bolts, item 31 on the periphery of item 22 as well as the socket head bolts item 29. Item 22 can now be pulled off the gearbox by screwing into the two threaded 7/16” Unf bolts on the edge of item 22 Fitting the seal If a rubber edged seal as previously described is used then insertion into item 22 is not too difficult. Place the seal into the housing and gently push, using hand pressure on the edge making sure the seal is fitting squarely into the housing. With a soft faced hammer or mallet gently tap the seal working slowly all the way around the seal, gradually the seal will move into the housing, when it is flush place the old seal, face on face to the new seal, and again tap gently using the old seal to push the new seal home. The new seal should not protrude past the housing face, and should sit slightly inside the housing when correctly fitted. The old seal I removed can clearly be seen in a photo below protruding outside the housing where it had been rubbing on the hub and incorrectly fitted. Fitting the hub into housing item 22 Grease the seal and the surface on which the seal faces on the hub. Place the hub into housing 22, centre spacer 24, the hub now needs to be pulled back into item 22 and it’s two bearings using a suitable bolt and two face plates. A suitable kit is “23pc Front Wheel Drive Bearing Puller Removal Installation Tool Kit Set” from eBay or Machine Mart, together with a suitable locally produced flat plate with a hole. Once the hub is back into housing item 22, the housing can be reattached to the gearbox, use blue Hylomar to seal the joint before reattaching item 22. Replace the slotted lock ring, tightening it back to where it came off such that it can be locked in place with locking washer item 36 after the spacer 35 is fitted. Refit spacers 37 and 38, refit bearing 39 hammering it in squarely on its outer race. Proceed to fit the bearing retainer/seal housing as per part one and continue assembly as per part 1 http://hmvf.co.uk/topic/40807-cvrt-gearbox-oil-seal-replacement-part-1/ Item 35 spacer can clearly be seen, behind that is the difficult to remove lock ring Steering disc hub removed, old oil seal clearly visible The incorrect fitting of the old seal can be clearly seen. New correctly fitted double lip seal Preparing to pull the steering hub into it's housing -Notice the rust marks on the sealing flange ! The silicon sealant used previously had not been correctly applied. - use Blue Hylomar! The steering brake hub being pulled back into it's housing with a super large bolt and a piece of scrap aluminium. The 7/16" UNF bolt is still in place used to split item 22 from the gearbox.

Many Thanks to Richard Farrant for the many message exchanges and brain picking! List of parts 8 Slotted nut (incorrectly numbered in spares book - should be 48?) 47 Tab Washer 46 Washer 45 O ring 44 O ring 43 Output Drive Coupling 42 Oil Seal 40 Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder 39 Bearing 38 Bearing Inner Spacee 37 Bearing Outer Spacer 36 Inner Lock Ring Retaining Tab Washer 35 Spacer 34 Steering Hub inner slotted lock ring 33 Steering Disc Hub 32 Oil seal 22 Gearbox Steering Hub Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder 23 Bearing 24 Spacer 25 Spacer 26 Roller Bearing 27 Roller Bearing outer track retainer 13 Steering hub drive The O rings are BS 120 and BS 131 however I believe BS 131 should be BS 133 The Outer Oil Seal AS33726237VIT42 DOUBLE LIP - The British Spares book gives metric measurements for this seal that are nonsense, no seal can be matched to these measurements The Inner Oil Seal 117.47 mm x 142.88 mm x 12.7 mm (4.625 x 5.624 x .5 inch) DOUBLE LIP if possible. Equivalent AS56246250VIT18 (double lip) OR - SKF CR46155(Single lip) All seals and O rings should be Viton and all Oil seals should be double lip. Do not waste time using Nitrile Seals. The British MOD are using PTFE seals, they are highly expensive and not needed for MV use indeed they may lead to shaft groove wear. The oil seals and O rings can be obtained from Barnwells Manchester. Special Tools needed:- Motorcycle suspension castle socket 6170 – This will need to have the internal castles ground back slightly Drive Shaft puller – it may be possible to adapt/modify a 3 leg puller Inner Lock Ring IMPACT socket – Special Tool! ¾” drive (contact me for info) to remove item 34 Possibly 1500Nm impact driver to remove item 34 Procedure to replace outer oil seal. Remove gearbox out of vehicle, drain all oil, leave the brake caliper in place. Knock back tab washer item 47 Using the 6170 castle socket remove the slotted lock ring, to prevent the Drive coupling moving insert a suitable drift into one of its three holes and let it rotate against the brake caliper. Remove item 47 Fit puller and pull off drive shaft coupling against centre shaft. The washer item 46 can be recovered when the driveshaft coupling is removed. Remove the bearing retainer item 40 lever out oil seal item 42 (Note to remove the bearing retainer remove the 6 retaining screws, using 2 x ¼” unf bolts screw into the housing in the threaded holes provided. Recover the bolts after the housing is extracted) If there is a dust cover fitted to the bearing remove it, since it’s not needed and should not be fitted. At this point the outer seal can be replaced and if the inner seal is not to be replaced then reassembly can begin. If the inner seal is to be replaced go to Inner seal replacement. Examine the seal surface of the drive coupling, if it has a groove, as confirmed by a finger nail fit a speedy sleeve shaft repair (see Youtube), the shaft may have a polished ring where the seal has rubbed, this is fine as long as no groove can be felt with a thumb nail. Use Blue Hylomar to seal the bearing housing, use blue thread locker to lock the retainer holding screws and screw in using a sutable HAMMER impact wrench to tighten. Grease liberally the oil seal, grease liberally the drive shaft coupling, fit to the splined shaft and knock in using a soft drift, such as aluminium, brass or nylon. Fit the two O rings, on the inner (smaller) O ring use a smear of silicon gasket maker. Fit the washer, 46, smear grease on the lip where the outer O ring fits, smear grease on the outer face of the washer, tighten the slotted nut, and then remove it. Fit the lock tab and grease the outer face Refit the slotted nut and tighten – WARNING, if overtightened it may destroy the locking tab. Knock over two of the lock tabs into the slots in the slotted nut. Left Viton Seal, Centre Nitrile seal with gaiter spring, old nitrile seal with steel casing and spring fingers - maybe found in Belgian gearbox get rid ASAP Left to right: Drive shaft coupling extractor, drive shaft coupling lock ring retainer socket, lock ring tab washer, impact socket to remove inner slotted ring 3/4 drive. Bearing retainer and oil seal holder removed, clearly visible is the bearing, which still has it's dust cover fitted - should have been removed!

The integrity of the bulkhead (drivers wall) is essential for your safety. It's a firewall to stop fire, fumes and fuel getting to the driver and occupants and killing them. Both the throttle idle screw and mixture screws can be reached without removing the decking or drivers wall. It requires a little dexterity and knowledge of where the adjustments are located.