Diana and Jackie

Yes Robin - that's the one! but not at their stupid price (before it was sold). Diana

Wanted drawbar/pintle/ rear towbar as fitted to CVRT rear to tow bar minelayer etc... PM please with price Diana

Hi Chris, That slotted nut spanner is for the final drive nut. Diana

Hi Richard, Made by a company called Garlock - still in existence. Not a big fan of steel lipped seals nor finger springs. Diana

The clutch seal fitted to the box was Viton, the seal inside the clutch was nitrile with finger spring! - yet more lazy bodging 🙂 the outer track of the clutch roller bearing was rotating in it's housing too - in all a nightmare job!

Hi Richard, I had a 1 metre 3/4" breaker bar standing on it and the lock ring would not move, even with a 1500Nm impact wrench it took 5 minutes to get the lock ring (on both sides) to move, I suspect depending on who overhauled the gearbox,( this was Belgian) you may or may not get a problem. You can also notice bodge marks on the large lock ring - not caused by me, clearly they had tried to get it off by bodging. You may notice that not even the oil seals were properly fitted, a bearing dust cap was fitted on both sides, one had come loose, had a steel backing and damaged the

T List of parts 8 Slotted nut (incorrectly numbered in spares book - should be 48?) 47 Tab Washer 46 Washer 45 O ring 44 O ring 43 Output Drive Coupling 42 Oil Seal 40 Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder 39 Bearing 38 Bearing Inner Spacee 37 Bearing Outer Spacer 36 Inner Lock Ring Retaining Tab Washer 35 Spacer 34 Steering Hub inner slotted lock ring 33 Steering Disc Hub 32 Oil seal 22 Gearbox Steering Hub Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder 23 Bearing 24 Spa

Many Thanks to Richard Farrant for the many message exchanges and brain picking! List of parts 8 Slotted nut (incorrectly numbered in spares book - should be 48?) 47 Tab Washer 46 Washer 45 O ring 44 O ring 43 Output Drive Coupling 42 Oil Seal 40 Bearing Retainer and Oil Seal Holder 39 Bearing 38 Bearing Inner Spacee 37 Bearing Outer Spacer 36 Inner Lock Ring Retaining Tab Washer 35 Spacer 34 Steering Hub inner slotted lock ring 33 Steering Disc Hub 32 Oil seal 22 Gearbox Steering Hub Bearin

The integrity of the bulkhead (drivers wall) is essential for your safety. It's a firewall to stop fire, fumes and fuel getting to the driver and occupants and killing them. Both the throttle idle screw and mixture screws can be reached without removing the decking or drivers wall. It requires a little dexterity and knowledge of where the adjustments are located.

Oh and the dial illumination is via a 6.3 volt bulb... 😁

The Avo is a piece of C**P wanders like it's drunk and has a miniature EC70 or 71 tube..as it's oscillator output tube. The output attenuator is likely to have spot burns across it's range.

Pair of CVRT steering calipers for sale, Pistons and bores look good, new seals needed - note these are MINERAL OIL SEALS not DOT4/5 seals for a CVRT Both Calipers are offside (Right) £60 each plus carriage. - and they are heavy Private Message me if interested. Diana

One pair of Viton/FKM toroid rings or O rings for the hub face oil seal of a CVRT final drive. One O ring per side. PLEASE NOTE, these do not fit nor are required for a Scotseal oil seal. £10 plus carriage. Diana

Think you have your answer - a parts manual is the best place to find numbers, and the place to get one is GreenMachine surplus. Diana

No problem, thought it may have been a simple microswitch problem or switch setting. Diana

There should be continuity between the copper armature segments, with everything disconnect, ie the brushes lifted, there should not be continuity between the armature shaft and copper segments. follow the field windings and see if there's continuity of the field coils, Common failures are sticking brushes i.e not making contact with the armature and loss of residual magnetism. A mechanic who knows what they are doing should be a bit more precise than "it's U/S" Diana

https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/615369/2017-00418.pdf See chapters 4 and 5, suggest checking the operation of the microswitches and wiring to the microprocessor and controller. Diana

Thanks to Richard I've just replaced the two outer seals on my CVRT Gearbox, there is also a slotted nut and behind that a washer, which has two seals, a rubber O ring and a flat rubber washer, both can also be a source of a leak as well as a loose slotted nut. Theses seals are also set in a removable housing held by machine screws, again the face of the housing can also be a source of a leak, I uses RTV silicon to seal the housing, If you replace the seals use Viton seals, also worth doing the two seals in related to the clutch, one inside the clutch and the other on the gearbox. Di

I recently wanted to renew a CVRT gearbox lubrication hose that was unavailable. After contacting Hoseman (Paul) on this forum he found a suitable replacement fitting and made up the new hose for me at a very reasonable cost. I know he has now bought all the spare 1 1/8 UNF hose ends in the UK, so if you want a CVRT hose remaking or renewed or a hose for any other vehcile this is the person you need to contact. Diana

A picture of the output coupling and castle lock ring. Subsequently the castle lock ring was found to be loose, underneath the washer was an O ring and a rubber washer, who's purpose is to stop oil leaking out of the box. If the castle lock ring is loose then oil is going to leak past the washer.. I managed to remove the output coupling, the oil seal had gone hard, another cause of a leak.

Here is a scan of the output shaft(s). The seals are items 42 and 32, there are also associated O rings items 44 and 45 . I spoke to Trelleborg some time ago and they confirmed that whilst The British Army use PTFE seals for our applications it's quite satisfactory to use standard seals.

Hi Richard, I think I am getting my inner and outer seals confused. The smaller seal I believe can be removed with a Laser Tools part 6179 castle lock ring tool (for a Kawasaki motorcycle).. The removal of castle lock ring which has already been butchered on my gearbox, allows access to deal with the smaller seal, it's the larger seal that presents the problem. At least knowing the box has to be vertical is a start 🙂 Tomorrow I will post a scan of relevant part of the box so that you may be able to enlighten us further ! Thanks again for your invaluable input ..... Dia

Has anyone replaced the output shaft oil seals of a CVRT Gearbox? If so how did they do it? All the output seals on my CVRT Gearbox are leaking, I have the seals, and I can probably do the outer seal fairly easily - but the inner seal maybe more difficult. Any tips or tricks would be helpful? Diana

Just had some CVRT main brake pads relined £12.50 each, a bargain considering a set of pads is over £120. http://www.brakereline.co.uk/ Diana