Pete Ashby

WALK AWAY Pete

My advice to you is short.............walk away there are plenty more without the pitfalls and costs this one may bring you. Pete

:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::rotfl: seen a few of those over the years, mostly painted OD in varying shades and belong to the 101st AB. Pete

Good advice Gordon, the individual that came to my mind is having a similar problem and is being given the paper chase run round by the authorities. Worst case outcome could be a Q plate and a hefty trumped up customs bill Buyer be aware is the watch word I'm thinking Pete

A few photos would help here. Regarding the lack of paper work the first question that occurs to me is the truck now UK registered? you say there is no import customs forms so if it isn't registered this makes things a bit more difficult but not impossible however you may have to pay duty when you register the vehicle. Someone I know is currently having this issue with DVLC so you need to be aware of this when agreeing a sale price Talk to DVLC/Customs you never know you may be lucky and find someone who is helpful and can advise you on the likely cost and requirements. Your question about the body may be due to a number of factors, it is not impossible that it's a 201, a number were shipped to the states in the 90's by dealers. it may be a 201 body on a war time frame but without pictures it's not possible to tell. The two previous posters have given good advice particularly regarding the G503 forum there's a vast body of knowledge there. You seem to have read around the subject which is always a good thing. One additional thing I suggest is that you make a simple tick list compiled from your reference material and headed Willys, Ford, 201 and then when you view the vehicle go round and tick or cross off the salient points I still do this after 40 years of working on jeeps it's quick easy and you don't need to make a big fuss or get into difficult discussions in front of the vendor. It also has the side effect of letting him know that you know what you are doing..... useful in negotiations over price. regards Pete

Thanks for link Bob very interesting, Iv'e not come across this before. Regards Pete

I'm not familiar with the circuits on the Solex but flat spots with a Carter or Zenith can be usually traced to the accelerator pump. The plunger can be either worn or sticking. I'm assuming here that you are sure it's not an ignition based fault ans this too can cause delay or hesitation on acceleration. Pete

Definitely Leyland, but it's not from a Retriever as the bottom outlet and tanks are wrong. Pete

Very concise Clive, agree fully. Pete

Yep saw it Richard, passed the link onto David. Surprised to see one still on charge in 1947 I wonder if it was operating with a Territorial unit Regards Pete

Thank you Harry found the tag as you suggested in the inside of the pocket. The pattern is dated 4-8-1944 so it's genuine WW11 and dated... nice. I'm open to sensible offers for this item, it's in perfect condition with no moth or ware PM me if interested. regards Pete

Humph !, not sure about those heels on the paint work :angry Pete

Game set and match to you and Richard I think John, having got the magnifying glass out on some reference photos I agree more than likely a W type civi impressed. regards Pete

Ah yes but the very early 1939 and 1940 O models had civilian ventilated disc wheels but I agree the BEF had a large number of W types there a classic picture of one loaded with Infantry during the retreat on one of those classically straight French roads. Pete

Might be an early OXC with 32x6 civilian tyres or an early OY this would be fitted with 32x6 fronts and dual rears Pete

Can anybody identify this US women's uniform jacket please? it has wartime metal buttons with slash lower pockets and no shoulder straps however it seems never to have had breast pockets. It is lined with a name and service number ink stamped on the lower hem. There is no makers or contract patch only an ink stamp that reads P-1730. The lapel badges are for the the US medical corp and look to be authentic the shoulder patch is medical corp and looks to be reproduction. My thoughts are WW11 tailor modified or post war issue. Any ideas or comments welcome Thanks Pete

Nice project keep the photos coming Pete

Here it is http://www.undercovercovers.co.uk/ Pete

Likewise Richard, Steve did all the canvas work on my C15A 12 cab in heavy flax, copper mesh windows and leather straps a real work of art working from supplied original samples and factory photos. I rate his attention to detail very highly and his standard of finish and use of the correct materials is exemplary particularly for the more esoteric vehicles. Like you my C15A was on his advertisement board for a number of years. I saw him advertising somewhere recently I'll try and find it.

Try Googling "Undercover Covers", I'll see if I can find the web address for you in the morning. Pete

It was reputed to be a favorite trick of the Canadians, those who have experience of 6volt starter systems fitted to MB's and GPW's may question the validity of some of the claims Pete

It cools my interest too, it usually means the price is going to be high that's fair enough, but I'm never sure why it has to be a secret Pete

Agreed, either will do you a very good job. As Rick points out the box is very simple and all parts are available to completely rebuild both the gearbox and transfer box. If you are loosing that much oil it's a fair bet that you will need to at least change the seals in the transfer box as well. Jumping out of second is as you note a common problem when the box gets worn it can be caused by any one or a combination of issues with the syncro hub, lay shaft thrust washers, input and output main bearings or excessive ware in the gear sets themselves, or of course the fact that it was never rebuilt properly the last time it was done. The series of articles on the gearbox are well written on the G503, it's pegged to the top of the GPW/MB technical forum so you will be able to find it easily. If you do decide to do it your self use the truck manual and measure all shafts and thrust washers against the factory specs and replace if out of tolerance. It really is a waste of time and money putting worn kit back into a engine or drive train when you've got it stripped as the cost of new parts are both reasonable and available for MB's and GPW's. Also don't forget there is a large pool of knowledge and experience on the Forum here at HMV so use the search engine and never be afraid to ask. Good luck Regards Pete

Before the hand of doom descends and condemns the motor to the scrap bin try some simple things and ask yourself a few questions. For example, Has the jeep stood for some time without starting, Have you been starting it often but only static running the engine, Have you lost coolant from the radiator without seeing any obvious leak, Do a simple compression test Has your engine oil changed colour to a dull grey and/or have you got a white sludge build up on the dip stick lid The 'smoke' that you see at the filler tube does it smell of burnt oil If your engine has a crank case ventilation valve (on the inlet manifold) fitted is it operating or has it become gummed up and stuck shut. It may be as simple as condensation in the crank case or it may be something a bit more sinister try a few simple tests and answer the questions first. Pete

British 15cwts have gained in popularity in the last few years so bargains are pretty thin on the ground, I would think you should be budgeting around the £8k mark give or take a bit depending on condition. Pete