Pete Ashby

Try Jeep Parts UK they have some Dodge related stuff Pete

Iv'e used this companies products http://WWW.rust.co.uk on various projects and found them to be good,..... not cheap......but good, have a look at the range of products particularly the 'steel renovation paint Epoxy Mastic 121'. No connection with the company. Pete

Lead work was and still is a technique used by the coach builder to give excellent results. However it requires the right tools eg; torch, paddles, mole skins, correct flux, stick solder and rasps etc also fair amount of practice and a very clean panel to start with, it's a skill that takes time to master. Pete

I have used two pack epoxy compounds before with good results as long as the surface prep is followed exactly to the letter. It really depends what you are trying to achieve, for cosmetic surface finish the epoxy route is probably the easiest route. You do need to be organised in the application phase as once the two components are mixed the working time is limited and equipment used for application must be cleaned within a fairly short time frame or they are scrap. If however you are looking to restore the intrinsic strength of an item then cut and weld is the most cost effective method. Pete

That looks very smart indeed. Pete

That's a fair start Rob, I'd add the following: spare fuel pump, carburetor float ( I had one sink in the middle of Carentan once) you will need to have spares for all your lights (French requirement) red breakdown triangle (ditto), high vis jacket/vest, roll of copper wire, roll of insulated electrical wire, length of rubber fuel pipe, bike pump (useful for blowing out blocked jets), roll of gaffer tape, selection of split pins a few spare nuts and bolts (various sizes), short length of rad hose, tube of instant gasket, tube of plastic metal(good for plugging up leaking tanks or rads), a couple of short wood blocks for jacking, couple of electrical crocodile clips. That sounds a lot but will all easily fit into one tool box locker. Pete

I went round and round this loop nearly 20 years ago and I'm afraid I got no joy at all, so eventually I moved 200 miles west and bought a farm, regulations may well have changed in the intervening time so I wish you luck. Pete

Looks good Dave, one thing to check when you get everything fitted and the fan belt on, check that the belt runs square, if not adjust the forward/rear position of the generator with washers as required. Pete

Possibly going to or coming from the Castle Martin ranges ? Pete

You will in reality be flat out at around 40mph on the flat, the 30cwt, 60cwt and LAA have fairly low ratio diffs. On our C30 we swapped them for C15A diffs which are slightly higher ratio. Iv'e not done it with a Ford but check your parts book to see if the diff carriers are compatible to a F15A, you will have to do both front and back or take your front prop shaft off to stop wind up. You could also try fit larger tyres as a quick fix, it mucks up the power/gear ratios a bit so you may find you need alter you driving style to match. Pete

Do not drill out your generator mounting lugs Dave, they are correct as they are. Wait for your engine mounting bracket to arrive and trial fit the bracket to the generator off the engine, it will help you to see how things go together. One question, are your rubber mounting bushes one piece or in two half's? I ask because in your photo the bush looks to be in two half's, the proper bush is a one piece unit, a bit of a struggle to fit into the engine front plate and bracket but holds the mounting bolts square. The one piece bushes are readily available, do a web search or do an e bay search using the search 'willys mb gpw jeep'. Let us know if you need anymore help Pete

I have to say that's near the price that sprang to my mind, it may be worth asking what sort of core you get for that price. Pete

Good morning Mr Farrent, thought that may provoke a response:D:D, I too had an occasion on a hill where I nearly wore agent 'O's rear end as rad badge, he claimed he was selecting first and had to let the speed die right off, I could have sworn I saw his rear wheels moving backwards:wow: The problem lies with C30 and C60 low ratio diffs. With Davids C30 11 cab we swapped them out for some C15A diffs it did help a little with the overall speed range but then CMP's are not built for either speed or comfort. The QL by comparison is I think a more modern design all be sharing some GM engine design features it benefits of course from full pressure fed mains and big ends. Pete

thanks for posting that Pete

I like seeing special purpose trucks of any nation fully kitted out with the correct gear, it sounds as if your buy has everything in place do you have the aerials and penthouse as well?. I do have to admit to a soft spot for QL's having driven and ridden in a GS version several thousands of miles in both this country and in France on tour. As a matter of interest we used to run the QL GS and GMC352 together and on the flat the GMC had the edge, however on long uphill climbs the QL would be pushing the GMC:cool2:.(Don't let Richard F hear me saying that). Your QLR will be a bit heavier and probably have more of a roll but will still be a joy on the open road.....always remember when you look in the rear view mirror and see the endless line of happy motorists behind you.........your in front and the road is clear :-D regards Pete

Really nice truck, particularly as it looks like it has all the coms kit in place No problems Tony as long as you only go to shows situated in east of England:-D Pete

That's a good price did that include VAT?, how many rows was that? Pete

I can see that you know your way around an engine so I hope you don't think I'm telling you how to suck eggs but do the vacuum test first it will help you to diagnose where the problem lies :-). Gauges are on ebay next day delivery for under £15, don't go for fancy oil damped ones you need to see the quick response to determine whats going on, for those who are interested and haven't used one before Google 'tuning using a vacuum gauge' there are plenty of good sites that will clearly explain what the different types of response are telling you . regards Pete

Before you start to strip down the engine I would suggest putting a vacuum gauge onto the PCV port to see what inlet manifold depression you have. If everything is doing what it should expect anything from 17 to 20 inches with only minor flicking. Let us know the result. Pete

try this link http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16340 Pete

Kenny I'm not sure where you are getting your information from, however to put the record straight for others who may read this thread and wonder,...........all Chevrolet CMPs use the same 216 cu in engine through out the range with the exception of the C60x 6x6 which has a GM 270 unit. Gearbox are common, the difference comes in the transfer box and rear axle ratio along with wheel base, tyre size, frame gusseting details and of course body and cab details these will be dependent on year of manufacture. I hope this gives you some idea of the questions you could be asking I would also recommend you join the Maple Leaf Up forum which has CMP collectors from all over world on its forums. Pete

You will need the proper belt adjusting arm as well, the arm comes in three parts the outer arm that clips onto the generator, the inner arm that is fixed to the front engine plate and the slider clip that locks the two arms together. You will also need the tension spring and the shouldered adjusting bolt and nut. This is all available from the usual dealers for not a lot of money. The links you posted show the way everything fits together with the exception of the large flat washers between the generator lugs and rubber bushes and the head of the mounting bolts and rubber bushes. These are nearly always missing as they are such a pain to fit but if you don't fit them the face of the rubber bushes can be damaged with time. Search the G503 for a discussion on mounting the washers correctly. regards Pete

Your welcome Dave, one thing I should add, I have assumed you have the correct mounting bracket that bolts onto the block, if not you need to get one again these available from most suppliers. Pete

Dave I would strongly recommend you join the G503 forum and use the search engine in the technical knowledge section, there are pictures and words aplenty about fitting jeep dynamos. Basically you need two rubber mounts, two shouldered bolts two large flat washers to fit the shoulder on each bolt and two large flat washers to fit the threaded portion of the bolts, two spring washers to fit the threaded bolts and two nuts. All this is available from a number of suppliers as a kit. Fitting can require the need for three hands or two people one underneath and one above. If you are doing this with the wing on, you can make life a bit easier if you supper glue the washers that go between the dynamo casing lugs and the rubber mount onto the rubber mount after installing the mount but obviously before installing the dynamo just make sure the holes line up. Pete

First things first, is the new oil pump distributor drive the same dimensions as the old one ? obvious question I know but worth checking side by side and measuring all the relevant dimensions also check that the drive slot in the pump is the same size as the drive tongue on the distributor. Let us know what you find Pete