Pete Ashby

I know what you mean Gareth, it does have that in service well used look Pete

Yes it was not bad at all and came at the right price too :-). The first thing to do was remove the grill wings and tub and have a good look at the frame and running gear.

Don't you think Jeeps are are bit like an itch they never seem to go away?. So that's how GPW frame number 14768 DoD 2nd week of April 1942 turned up in the workshop a couple of years ago, on inspection the overall condition was not bad with a lot of early features still in place. The usual post war British service mods were still in evidence and a rebuild plate giving the post war army reg number 24-YH-46 in place on the frame. The body was very good, unfortunately not the original script but a very early composite ACM2 body number 2958 produced in the 1st week of Jan 1944 which was interesting in its own right. The usual problems were evident in and around the tank well and front foot wells other wise not too bad. So this was the starting point, these photos were taken when I picked the jeep up as you can see at face value not too bad.

Well said, we are all open to this sort of problem at any time. Lets all be vigilant and hope to hear or see something that may help these unfortunate people get their vehicle returned. Pete

The other thing to consider which is ignition related is the mechanical advance on distributor, i'm not familiar with the 4 cylinder Morris engine is it vacuum or counter weight operated?, either way check the operation usual suspects for vacuum systems are a perished or detached pipe, or less common a perished diaphragm. The counter weight system suffers from either stuck weights on the pivot pins or broken springs. Try the easy stuff first before taking the base plate out to look at the weights. Pete

Tony, done a fair bit of business with this company always found them good http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/home no connection Pete

In addition to the books i would also recommend you join the G503 jeep forum full of useful knowledge from jeep people all over the world. One thing you may find useful is after doing your research on the web and from reference books is sit down and make a tick box list with three headings at the top namely Ford Willys Hotchkiss then down the side set out the identifying features you would expect to see for each make, you can detail your chart with early and late features for a more detailed analysis if you wish. I use excel for this now but you can do it long hand just as well, take the list to any prospective purchase and go round and tick the boxes, very quickly you will build a accurate picture of what you are actually looking at also don't be afraid to take along some reference material as well. Don't get into an argument with the seller over details just tick your boxes and make your own mind up about what it is you are really looking at if he's not comfortable with you doing this there is probably a reason and don't be afraid to walk away. Pete

'The Standardised war time jeep 1941-45' by John Farley 'The Standardised war time jeep 2 1941-45' by John Farley If you can only buy one get the second one but I would advise you spend the money and get both. They are packed with original photos and information month on month for detail design changes and frame numbers for both Ford and Willys very highly recommended. 'The military jeep buyers bible' by Mark Askew Useful in giving details of both war time and post war jeep variants including Hotchkiss so helpful in identifying what you may be looking at. 'All-American wonder the military jeep 1941-1945' by Ray Cowdery Getting a bit dated now but still contains useful information may not be currently in print but can be obtained via the usual book sites regards Pete

Google 6 volt motor cycle lights Tony that should put up a number of sources Pete

It's been said before but it worth saying again.......... There are undoubted problems 70 years on operating 6 volt systems if any one, or a combination of components are worn/corroded/high resistance. Mogmaner's post demonstrates the problem well, you need every amp you can get and it follows that the resistance of the system must be as low as possible. Putting aside issues with the wrong gauge starter cables and bad earths one thing that is often overlooked when Bendix starters with nose bushes situated in the bell housing are overhauled is the replacement of the nose bush in the bell housing and the rear of the starter motor. If these are worn then the result under torque is the starter dog will try to dig into the starter ring and in effect stall the motor, the motor draws more current the temperature rises the resistance rises and the whole thing stalls. The other common problem is burnt and pitted contacts on the the starter switch. The switch contacts arc, this raises the temperature across the contacts and just like the starter motor the resistance will rise and the current passed will fall. In short........if everything involved in the starting process is in good condition and within spec the engine will start. The military would not have taken delivery of inefficient vehicles and in your case Bob although I admire your work-round I have to say the civilian car market would not buy cars that did not start...... If it won't start there is a reason. Pete

Glad it's sorted Mike regards Pete

I'm assuming Mike the white smoke only appeared with the current problem. Have you have checked your coolant level hasn't suddenly gone down ?. This a really long out field thought but a gallon of diesel hasn't found it's way into your tank?. I'm also assuming you have gone through your plugs and ignition leads to see if one cylinder isn't firing? Had a bit more of think on this, you say some brake work was undertaken did that include the hydrovac Have you checked to see if the brake fluid level in the master cylinder has gone down? Pete

Welcome Hugh, post your photos people would like to see them I'm sure. regards Pete

Good advice :goodidea: Pete

Agreed Tony, the push start and handle start point to voltage drop on the low tension ignition circuit, the modual should be able to cope with a larger voltage drop than than conventional points/coil system but this assumes there are no high resistance issues when the modual is hot. Pete

If it starts on the handle when hot I wouldn't think you have a fuel issue. May well be ignition related. I'm not familiar with the Jolly set up. But a problem with early electronic ignition systems could be a break down of the modual due to heat transfer issues. Once the unit cooled down it would function fine until it heated up again. Pete

Start with the ignition system first, you say it starts with a push or tow? then you may have a problem related to coil robbing or a weak coil, if you put the starting handle in will it start?. Pete

Pleased your sorted, have a good time :-) Pete

If you are certain it's not ignition related I would seriously recommend putting a vacuum gauge onto the PCV port of the inlet manifold around £14 to £20 on e bay next day delivery. If you haven't used a vacuum gauge before for engine diagnostics (sorry if I'm telling you how to suck eggs) google 'reading a vacuum gauge' there are some excellent sites that explain how to interpret what the gauge is telling you. Pete

I don't think that it's sediment in the carb, if it was it would not be temperature dependent, you would be having the problem all the time if it was a blocked jet or intermittently if something was floating about in the float chamber. I would look first for an ignition based problem then when your certain it's nothing in that area go for a air leak/valve related issue, worst case is a head gasket blow between cylinders that's what the vacuum test would show up. One more question.... the carb... is it a Carter or a Solex? one more thing to check..... is the choke coming off fully, just because you push the button in on the dash doesn't mean that the butterfly is opening fully....could be a inner cable adjustment issue or the outer armored cable is not clamped properly so it moves forward and prevents the choke opening fully, take the air horn off and check that the butterfly is vertical when the choke knob is fully pushed in. Good luck come back to the forum with the results and I'm sure people will help you. Pete

A few questions to try to narrow down the issues: 1 Did it run ok before you overhauled it 2 What temperature are you seeing when it starts to run rough 3 What valve clearance have you set 4 Have you sprayed something like easy start or WD40 round the carb base and inlet manifold/block joints while the engine is running...... do you hear a difference in engine note, this will indicate an air leak 5 Have you done an vacuum test if so what results did you get 6 Have got a glass top to your petrol pump if so can you see the fuel boiling or air bubbles 7 Is your carburetor pre heater flap stuck open 8 What is your point gap setting 9 What value are your compression tests for each cylinder are they done hot, cold, or with oil down the bores 10 Is your float level set too high, when it's running rough are getting black smoke at the exhaust 11 have you changed the distributor cap 12 Are the plug leads breaking down/shorting out That will do for starters, try to answer the questions and it may help to narrow down what the causes may be and help forum members to suggest a solution for you Pete

I used to run between 25 and 27psi on my Dodges and 15cwt CMP's. it seemed to give the best comprise between tyre ware and ride. Pete

Morris's straight 30 in the engine, straight 90 in the gearbox and transfer case (do not use Hypoid in either of these two units), hypoid 90 in the diffs and their liquid grease range in the CVC joints. Pete

Agree Degsy, the Morris's range is very comprehensive and I've used their products for many years in a range of military vehicles, not cheap but good and it does what it says on the can :-) Pete

My April 42 Ford 24-YH-46 had the frame number stamped in the same font as yours but very lightly on the outer face of the frame horn. No evidence of the other stamping you've got I've not seen anything like it before. Pete