Jimh Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 A few more snaps to show that things are progressing. Guide rollers and the air pipes back in place. Which means that's pretty much the chassis back together at the back with the exception of the spring shackle bolts and the wiring. All the sheet stripped off the tracks rack. That was pretty painful. Given that the sheet wasn't doing much at all they were lathered with weld. Cleaned and painted now. The new sheets are being fitted as I type. Tank repaired. The larger step covers the patch. Hopefully it doesn't look too out of place. Cab starting to look a bit more cab like. Big thanks to Niels for his efforts measuring and skeitching the floor of his Pioneer so I can get this looking somewhere near right. There was me all pleased fitting the furthest back board with only one small cock up. Then I realised I'd forgotten one rather important part it needed to fit round. Can anyone spot it? Or not spot it to be more accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Well it has to be a clearance slot for the handbrake, gearlever, winch brake, or something trivial like that, doesn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Batchelor Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Yes should be a gate change there somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimh Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 Aye, there was me thinking the cab was roomier than I remembered it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Plenty of torque from the Gardner, 1 gear permanently selected should be enough. Go anywhere ability should limit the need for reversing. What type of wood did you end up using for the flooring? Will you use the same for the back body repairs? Are those new rollers for the winch guides or seriously cleaned up old ones? I can't remember back to when you last mentioned them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niels v Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Hi Jim I am glad that I could help with your great looking Scammell :yay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimh Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 Let's just say that your photos of an unmolested Pioneer have been very useful in lending weight to discussions about what is and isn't right. The rollers at the rear were just popped in the lathe and skimmed because they were in bit of a state. Perhaps they should have been ground or at the very least taped and polished but that is probably being silly. The floor? Erm, yeah. *looks at floor and avoids eye contact* Since Niels' measurements showed that the width of the planks was all over the place (the widest being just over 10") this caused bit of a quandary. Do you use planks the same width (it was going to end up being that stuff meant for artic trailer decks I just know it) or get someone to run up the planks in the right sizes. The problem is that for a number of reasons the timber budget runs to the square root of very little it was going to end up being the former option. The final option was to use 20mm plywood sliced into planks of the correct size. Kept the cost down and kept the planks the right size. Fortunately you can't see any free edges so if I'd kept quiet it would have been difficult to tell it wasn't what it should be. /hangs head in shame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimh Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 Not a lot going on to take pictures of at the moment. I finished the floor which was a pretty painful job. Fitting the boards around the Neate brake was driving me bonkers. No photograph because once they were all fitted they were all removed to sand and paint them as well as fit the other bits and pieces which need to go in while the floor is out. Fuel tank is primed and undercoated, the fuel pipes cleaned and annealled and we finally remembered where they went - after a brief struggle finding a hole which wasn't there any more. The air pressure and gearbox oil pressure pipes are in which just leaves some wiring to run and the cab back and sides to final fit and the floor can go back in. The track box is replated, primed and undercoated as are the seat frames. Which reminds me - can anyone recommend someone to make up some seat cushions and back pads? It's not far off being mobile now and I want somewhere comfy to sit. Photos to follow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Which reminds me - can anyone recommend someone to make up some seat cushions and back pads? It's not far off being mobile now and I want somewhere comfy to sit. Photos to follow... Good to see you are thinking ahead. Got my Ward driving around a few weeks ago. I intended to take seat bases from my 101 for temporary use. Forgot and ended up sitting on the removed dynamo on top of the seat box to gain a bit of height. Not very comfy at all. Looking forward to seeing a few more photo's when you have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimh Posted August 11, 2009 Author Share Posted August 11, 2009 Better have some more snaps to show things are still progressing. We had originally replaced the knackered brake cable with round bar but they didn't look very nice so we got some cables made up. In 316 stainless for £33.00 the pair. www.juststainless.co.uk for all your stainless needs. And the other one in situ. Passengers' seat frame in DBG As well as the driver's seat frame in DBG. But now we need a floor to bolt them onto. There it is. Well, most of it anyway. Boards all fitted, sanded and primed. There are a couple of brackets to make to support the floor around the brakes and selector gate but they will be done at the final fit. Inside the cab you'll see I've managed to remember the selector gate this time. I'm going to have to cheat and put a steel finishing plate where the floor fits around it to tidy it up and stop small children from falling down the gap. The overall track box. Replated, welded up, painted and ready to go back on. I'm still puzzled by the amount of weld that had been lathered on these things to hold some pretty thin plate in place. I have a theory, which is mine, that they used things like this to train welders so the weren't wasting rods and material and got something useful but non-critical at the end of it. Comments? Fuel tank in DBG. We just need some grip for the treads to rivet on. One cab side nearly in place. And that's it. Just doing the other side at the moment and then the floor can go back in for good. We're also still waiting for the radiator tubes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimh Posted August 20, 2009 Author Share Posted August 20, 2009 I think I remember what it looks like. Wasted last weekend sailing for no good result but there's been some progress. That sockety thingy cleaned up and back in place. Inside of the nearside door. The less said the better. Fuel tank back in place and plumbed in. The only mod we made here was to run the breather pipe up the back of the cab rather than through the cab floor. Hopefully, the larger step isn't too prominent. Nearside door fitted. Looking a lot more Pioneer like now. We're short of a working fuel gauge at the moment. Offside door and track box in place. More of the track box. The offside door looking OK. The shutlines are pretty straight anyway. And the inside of the offside door. Short of the door locks at the moment. I modified a new one to make it look Scammell like but I wasn't very happy with the result. I think it will be better to cut to the chase and just make some which look right. What else? We've given up trying to get the regulator rebuilt and 24V regulators seem to be pretty much impossible to find so we believe that the best option for now is to change to a CAV AC5 alternator with its own regulator. Once this is painted duck egg blue to match everything else it shouldn't stand out too much and it will do until either a suitable 24volt regulator turns up or someone appears who can rebuilt the original control box. It's not the cheapest option but at least the AC5 should put out slightly more power than the rather woeful 15A of the original unit. I think the floor can go back in this weekend and get fitted properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiomike7 Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 Looking good Jim, try Shorts of Swansea for the regulator: 01792 469595 Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimh Posted August 21, 2009 Author Share Posted August 21, 2009 I'll give them a try. Some windscreen pictures for SFS. It's a bit difficult to give you a good idea of what is going on because we havn't dismantled them yet but this is the "complete" unit. Easy bit first (much easier because this bit got made yesterday). The windscreens sit in an angle frame which is fixed to the scuttle and header rail. This is 1" 1/8th part angle with a centre section folded from 2mm plate. The folded centre section. Now it gets harder. The glass is held in place in U section frames and onto the outside face of that U section is fixed a joggled strip which looks like this... You can probably make out that on the small, fixed lower panes this is what is used to fix the glass frame to the windscreen frame. Now the tricky bit. This is the hinge for the top pane. As you can probably make out it isn't a hinge in the traitional sense. The "outer" section is fixed to the windscreen frame while the section fixed to the glass frame slides in from one end. There seems to be a grub screw making sure they don't slide out again. It has all but rotted away on ours. But you get the idea. It forms a hinge the full width of the glass pane. If anyone has any idea about replicating this I'd be glad to hear it. So far all we have encountered is a lot of head shaking. The opening panes have a prop at either end to hold them open/closed. These are good enough to reuse on ours but you shouldn't have any troble making these bits. This should show that the joggle section of the opening frame overlaps the section on the lower pane. Is that good enough to give you an idea of what you are looking for. It'll be easier to see the details once they are apart. Neils has some nice detail photos of the wooden sections which are fixed to the scuttle and the header rail to which the windscreen frame is fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Garage roller shutter door has this section on it. Just find a damaged section someone has had to replace and run off with a bit. I've seen it used on jeeps and open cab Dodges which have very similar screens, so it should do for your application. Gordon:coffee: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimh Posted August 21, 2009 Author Share Posted August 21, 2009 Ha ha. Never thought of that. Bloody top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 You might find you can borrow two sections from the door that is on your garage - job done.:cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimh Posted August 21, 2009 Author Share Posted August 21, 2009 Annoyingly we removed and scrapped a roller shutter door not long back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Savedfromscrap Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 You really are doing a fantastic job on that Jim, I can not wait to see the finished article. I am most grateful for you taking the time to explain about the windsreen and the pictures are a really big help. Good idea about the roller shutter door, that will make life a lot easier! Cheers Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diamond 981 Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Garage roller shutter door has this section on it. Just find a damaged section someone has had to replace and run off with a bit. I've seen it used on jeeps and open cab Dodges which have very similar screens, so it should do for your application. Gordon:coffee: Used the same on my diamond t bonnet, works a treat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimh Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 Got some roller door slats - should work a treat. Anyway for starters here are some more windscreen bits to give SFS a better idea of what is going on. This is the U section frame for the bottom (fixed) pane. I'll do some dimensioned sketches once it is all together and we know it all fits. You get the idea anyway. Fold up a U section and weld it together into a frame. Not tricky. There is then the joggled section which is welded to the front and holds the lower pane to the angle frame. The upper (opening) frame is slightly different. The sides are the same section but the top section is deeper. Obviously this hasn't been welded up yet. The hinge welds (spot welds probably) to the top of the deep section. Again the joggled section is welded to this but obviously it isn't screwed to the frame. The picture below should give you an idea of what is going on. The back of the cab now pretty much done with the windows in and what not. Passenger door in undercoat. It took a while to work out in my head how to bend the bracket to hold the bottom of the shovel. I think I've got it right but we only had squinting at pictured to go on. Inside the cab now looking very Pioneer with levers and everything. It's even got a floor. More of the inside of the cab. I haven't worked out yet how to fit this lot properly so the gaps at least hold small coal. Had enough of the cab yet? The floor isn't fixed down properly yet because I need some 1/4 whit csk set screws and we'd run out. The offside. Ignore the amber lens in the sidelight. There are some clear ones coming. The floor round about the driver's seat. I don't think it is too untidy. At least it doesn't move around when you sit in the seat. More of the cab from the offside. In a moment of boredom I took the wich to bits. It wasn't going to be possible to paint it properly when it was in one piece. Winch bits ready for wire brushing. I wasn't bored enough on Sunday to start wirebrushing again. I'll wait until I'm stronger for that. The pile of crappy bits by the lathe has started getting bigger again. Silencer to make, winch covers to clean and paint and the same to the back rests. Finally and not entirely Pioneer related the Sentinel is about ready now to venture onto the road. I'm not entirely convinced by the effectiveness of flashing amber lights particularly on things like the Sentinel (or the Pioneer for that matter) which are very tall and boxy. I'm not certain that they are very visible when you are in a car. So we've got one of these dinky little things. LED and uses about 0.13 of an amp or something trivial. Can handle 12 or 24 volt and fixes in place with a little backing plate so it can be taken off in secods. Sits on the back of the vehicle in the driver's line of sight and is very visible. Looks a lot neater than flashing orange beacons - a lot easier to swap between vehicles so you only need one of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiomike7 Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Cracking job Jim, when you come to start it up remember not to use the neutral between 1st and reverse as the gearbox oil pump will not be driven. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abn deuce Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 Very neet and tidy. Its come quite aways , Really outstanding work ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big chris Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 you should get the mud off the tyres mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 you should get the mud off the tyres mate At this rate it won't be long before it's getting some fresh mud on them :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Explorer Mac Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Hi Jimh, Cracking job !! :bow: I am so jealous..... I WANT ONE.... Seriously mate it is looking very good. Will you be at the GDSF next year? I have seen one on ebay and very tempted, but I need to be practical. I don't have the space or the equipment to do the job. But maybe one day i'll have the time and money to do the job... Keep up the good work and hope to see it on the road/mud soon. Mike :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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