Rick W Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 This ones for the benefit of John as he's got to do his and Ive already done one of mine on the Morris. So here is a step by step guide to bringing a 60 year old fuel tank back into service! There are 2 tank straps holding the tank to the chassis, getting them off is relatively easy, you just have to prepare yourself for what lies underneath the tank straps! One will be fine, under the other you may find at the very least a few pinholes as I did on my other. This second one was slightly worse!:shake: This is obviously going to need more than a bit of tank sealant. Im going to cut it out and plate it. The useful chemicals and sealants which were all that were needed on the other tank. More to follow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 Cheers Rick, So far so good. Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abn deuce Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 I believe the gas tanks when their mounted on the U.S. vehicles have a rubber strip between the tank and the strap is that why American vehicles dont suffer this same damage ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodger Baz Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 American vehicles do suffer the same problem, certainly the Dodge tanks that i have repaired in the past had excatly the same trouble. I believe that R Cubed had a similar problem with his GMC fuel tank? be very careful with the tank sealer, i have seen it used to extremes in a dodge 1/2Ton! the tank was lined with about 3/4" of tank sealer! it was fine unitl the truck was used then it started braking off in large chunks causing havoc! Bazza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 American vehicles do suffer the same problem, certainly the Dodge tanks that i have repaired in the past had excatly the same trouble. I believe that R Cubed had a similar problem with his GMC fuel tank? be very careful with the tank sealer, i have seen it used to extremes in a dodge 1/2Ton! the tank was lined with about 3/4" of tank sealer! it was fine unitl the truck was used then it started braking off in large chunks causing havoc! Bazza The trouble with the tanks on SWB GMC's is the strips between the tank and straps is a woven canvas type material, similar to rubbing strips between bonnets and frames on old cars, this of corse absorbs water :-( and dirt builds up between the tank and frame as well, stays damp and rots the tank :-( Clean between your tanks and frames.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 Hi Gang, What would happen if you used gasket cork between the retaining strap and the tank to prevent chafing, would that absorb water as well? :idea: Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted May 11, 2008 Author Share Posted May 11, 2008 On the other tank I done , I replaced the material with strips of inner tubes, does the job, looks OK, but yes the material must hold the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 Inner tube sounds a great idea, any reasons why not? Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedawnpatrol Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 The original packing material was white felt about 3mm thick. I have replaced it with 4mm cork, I just bought a pack of cork floor tiles and cut into strips. I had to make new steel straps for my No 2 C8. Keep up the good work Rick Jules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 The tank has now been roughly paint stripped using a wire rotary brush on an electric drill, mainly to see if any other offending holes appear. The rest of the tank is fairly solid so the rotten section has been cut out ready for a plate to be welded on. Marine clean has been poured in (about a pint) and given a good sloshing around. A hose pipe was employed to give the tank a good rinse out. John, if you are lucky enough to have a fairly solid tank, unscrew the fuel lines from the feed from the tank feed valve which site on top of the tank and remove. Chances are if you leave it in you could be in danger of getting some muck stuck up the pipes which go to the bottom of the tank. Also if you take that out you can stand the tank up on its end, put a hose in the filler neck and drain out of the hole where the feed was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 After the trusty workshop apprentice had done his tank cleaning duties, it was left out in the sun to dry out (the tank, not the trusty apprentice). While it was drying out I gave it a few sprays of Metal Ready externally. At the end of today I will put the remainder of the Metal Ready in the tank and put the tank in a bin bag overnight. The reason for this is that the fumes from the Metal Ready treat the rest of the tank which isnt in direct contact with the liquid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 After a night in the bin bag I emptied the residue of the metal ready out. There was a fair bit of gungey muck in the baffled end where we have cut the hole so I spent a bit of time trying to get as much of this out as possible. You may not have to do all this John as yours has been running on a regular basis. The screw thread ends of the filler neck and drain hole were then masked up and the whole thing given a liberal coating of red oxide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Hi Rick, It's looking, you've done a great job so far. Now I have got the clutch sorted I have only got to start rebuilding all the bits I've taken off. I was starting to get a bit worried about missing the W&P but thanks to good old Kewelde I should be up and running before then, I've got the Hythe do the week before so there's not a lot of time left. I've been saving all your info. but I have to type it all out as I can't seem to save your answers to my documents in my computer. I'm sure I'm not the only one finding your guides helpful so keep them coming. :tup:: Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 Thanks John, didnt realise until today that only one of the tanks has a reserve tank in it, the other one shown here is just baffled. Why are you doing one of the tanks? Have you sprung a leak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Hi Rick, Found the leak just the other week when I was underneath bolting up the silencer and I thought it was water dripping on me. Wasn't Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted May 16, 2008 Author Share Posted May 16, 2008 After welding a repair patch on the tank we needed to get the filr neckextension out before putting tank sealer in. On the Morris this extend the filler neck out from under the body making it easier to fill the tank, especially from a jerry can. It came out a lot easier on the other tank. This one had seized in the neck completely and required a bit of gentle persuasion from Tim and Stuart to get it out. It meant melting the solder which seals it onto the filler neck, but it had to come out. And it did, eventually... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john wheatley (R.I.P.) Posted May 16, 2008 Share Posted May 16, 2008 Hi Rick, Wasn't aware there was a reserve in either, do you recall which one it is? Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enigma Posted May 18, 2008 Share Posted May 18, 2008 Inner tube sounds a great idea, any reasons why not?Regards, John. I use the innertube from a Dodge tyre. Better than metal on metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 Fairly sure what seems to be a reserve is on the drives side tank John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tankhatch Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Open flame + working on old empty gas tank / empty gas can,,,, sometimes goes KaBOOM or WOOF. Route an air hose inside, and have lots of air flowing,,, can prevent a Kaboom or the WOOF flame method of hair removal. Kim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted November 1, 2008 Author Share Posted November 1, 2008 Ah! You will take note of the lack of hair on both my trusty companions skulls! It is the company uniform!.. Rest assured I made sure there was nothing left in the tank, hence the thorough cleaning out.:sweat: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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