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Should I put radweld in my new Lwt Radiator?


LarryH57

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I have a new radiator in my Lwt, and there is a very small leak of coolant from the bottom hose. This hose clip is very difficult to reach without stripping down the bits that surround the rear of the radiator. The amount is like the amount of tea you might get in a saucer from knocking your brew, after a week. 

I thought that radweld would cure it. But why not?

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 FIX the hose clip awful stuff / RADWELD IS a last resort it not only clogs up the leak why on earth would you use it in a new radiator l have added this after others  have commented

Edited by wally dugan
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Definitely fix the hose clip or live with the leak (it doesn't sound particularly concerning and any shortage of coolant (if there is any) will be corrected by you when you do your 'first parade checks').  But, no, don't use Radweld.

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Assuming your hose clip is a modern type with a hexagonal head, rather than struggle with a screwdriver trying to tighten the clip, I use a 1/4 inch drive socket to engage hexagonal head of the screw. Use a flexible coupling piece to the socket & the other end via a long extension piece to your ratchet. If it is really really awkward you might need a second flexible coupling. 

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Are you telling me you don't have  -  as Solihull supplied with Lightweights  ,  Rover No.  601314 

RADIATOR SEALING PELLET  (boxed)   ,  note singular.    

I do have what I understand are the second & third most RARE  Lightweight parts  ,  however  -  I don't have a example or even a photograph of what I regard as the most rare of all  -  601314..

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Hose clips - what you are probably using is Jubilee type steel band /worm drive , renowned for not sealing because they don't supply constant pressure 360 degrees.   In S3 days Solihull used a twin-wire wormdrive clamp hose that seals better.  I have known leaks at the rad. bottom hose - on inspection the rad. stem is deformed due to people reefing down in the belief that it will stop the leak - no.   The twin wire is better than a steel band at leak prevention ,  in S2A days - three common sized  603894,  50315  ,  50320  these will be S/S     ,  the twin wire type you need is  CN100486 - it may be S/S.

Most car makers now use a constant pressure 360 spring-clip  type  fitted / removed with pliers (best if you have proper ones)  & in some cases for security (turbo-hoses etc)  a similar type is used , you can mess with ord. pliers but best to invest  £6 or so , Ebay  -   Neilsen  CT1385   HOSE CLIP PLIERS.

Your best move would be to go to such as a Fiat or Ford  etc. etc.  spares counter with your bottom hose to size , they have the far superior hose clips , often green - a type of Parkarised finish or sheradised - often they don't rust or need renewal within 20 years.    A Vernier or at a push - use a Bahco wrench to check the stem dia. & make certain it is still round  ? 

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btw  Holts  RADFLUSH  (or SPEEDFLUSH  as now called)  actually has a good reputation for radiators & blocks  ,  well it's used as a first stage , shifts loads of brown stuff  - a block in realy bad condition may need the core-plugs removed and a caustic or similar wash out.

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It blocks it up!

I used rad weld in a 2.8 injection Capri to “get me home” which it did.

several years later the radiator needed repair so I took it out and sent it for rebuild. I decided I would replace the hoses at the same time. The bottom hose did a loop. To allow for alignment. Inside I found all the rad weld. The internal diameter reduced to about 3/4 of an inch. 

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Posted (edited)

I decided to take the radiator 'outer shroud' off and this gave much better access to the lower radiator hose clip. I have to appreciate that I can't be lazy with a Lwt that needs looking after, so with new clip and tightened I have no leaks! The rad weld will stay in the emergency box.

20240818_154909.jpg

Edited by LarryH57
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