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Brake warning buzzer and light - Bedford MJ


Helen B

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Hi folks,

I wonder if you can help...

We have a 1986 Bedford MJ, which is building air pressure fine and easily reaches 7-8. The brakes appear to be working fine (albeit only driving around the yard),  however the warning buzzer and light won't go off.

We've tried various things in an attempt to fix it, including buying and fitting new switches, which don't make any difference. There's no water or rust in the tanks.

This has been going on for ages now and becoming very frustrating!

Has anyone any ideas what it could possibly be?

Many thanks in advance

Helen 

 

 

 

 

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Have you done a pressure test on the tanks to check what actual pressure is in each one. Just a point when working with air at pressure it only takes 5 psi to breach your skin and cause an air bubble in the blood stream which can be fatal. So be careful. Always wear gloves. Have you tried lifting the air a small amount?

Edited by john1950
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Hi,

Do the brake lights come on when operated ?

Be sure you have changed the pressure switches for the low pressure warning and not the brake light.  (daft question but you never know).

With the system pressure at zero remove the switch or switches and run the engine to purge any crap that is near the switches blocking their use. If possible a direct reading pressure guage fitted at the switch union will confirm the switch is seeing the correct pressure.

If all is ok, maybe looking at a wiring problem, do you have the wiring diagrams ?

 

 

 

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Hi Iain

Yes, the brake lights work and it is the low pressure switches that we've bought new and changed.

Phil's checked for water, rust, muck etc and they're fine and have emptied the tanks.

Phil has looked at the wiring and there's a loose wire. He's not here now, so would need him to confirm. i Know there doesn't seem anything obvious.

Been on this for weeks now - its a real mystery!

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Yes. We’ve tried every combination, including one old one & a new one, swapping them about, one connected, then the other etc.

There is one switch which doesn’t produce the buzzer or the light and another combination on the other that puts both on and ring switch off! 

There’s a couple of loose wires in the dash that we’re not sure what they’re for. It’s not helping as some bright spark has painted all the pipes & wires green! 

Phils having a go today hopefully on some of your suggestions. 
 

thank you 😊

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If you disconnect one switch and the buzzer and the light go out, I would reason that either that tank is not getting up to pressure to open the switch or the switch is faulty. You need to do a check on the tanks to see what pressure they actually achieve.

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I believe if you take the 2 wires off the switches the buzzer and light goes off, which made us think we needed new switches, but the same happens with them.

It has got the small tank you mentioned with an automatic drain valve which Phil has replaced as the seal had gone on that.

As I say we're running out of ideas.

Unfortunately we don't have any gauges / fittings to connect in to the tank and Phil's not had chance to take a look to see if he can work something up.

Thanks for your helps so far 🙂

 

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Likelihood if all the switches are good and the gauges are showing the correct pressure you have a wiring issue. The 'healthy' signal is not getting back to the dash. It's a case of getting out a multimeter and perhaps an extra bit of wire to help with the long loom run back to the cab to identify the culprit. Also by identifying the 2 contacts that are not talking, yiu can pull a new cable point to point rather than trace an old loom for damage, likely causing more problems to fix!

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I had the same problem with my Militant a few years ago and it took me ages to sort it. I went over the whole system time and again. Then one day I checked the back of the buzzer unit after removing it and just noticed a stray wire thread that occasionally touched the metal of the cab.  Nuts!

I think some parts of the system are the same or similar (it was built in 1970) but the buzzer unit is an old type. Still it is so easy to miss and so annoying.

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When you are building the air pressure up, the gauge should start to climb, get part way up falter and drop back a bit as the distributor valve starts to fill the secondary tanks them resume its climb until it gets to full pressure. Blaming the warning lights and buzzer straight away is a bit like shooting the messenger sometimes. 

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