Restoring RE WD/C 1942

[PaulJager]

On 6/21/2023 at 8:35 PM, Chris Hall said:

If I remember correctly, there is a hole to allow oil to flow back into the timing gear chest, perhaps someone put a bolt in it.

Hi Chris, there was already a bolt in there and it does seem to have threads in the hole too. But I was trying to think logically and could not understand how the oil that will be feeded to the timing chest would be able to flow back to the casing of the motor if the hole was covered by this plug. Maybe best to remove it then.

[PaulJager]

On 6/21/2023 at 8:39 PM, Chris Hall said:

That sounds a bit odd, you should be able to get 3 pints in. Spin the engine over to get some oil into the timing gear chest (but it doesn’t take that much).

I do have to say that I only removed the oil drain plug that is closest to the front wheel. I notices that there are 2 plugs, but figured that if the first one would not give me any oil, the 2nd would probably not have to be taken out. Maybe that one is holding the other 1-2 Liters of oil that I was thinking of being able to pour into the casing?

[PaulJager]

On 6/22/2023 at 9:06 AM, Ron said:

Paul the slit at the rear is the breather come overflow for the oil tank. If oil is spilling from that slit, it must be full. Also once you run the engine after a drain and refill, oil will be pumped up to the timing chest. 

 

If the bronze bush on the crankshaft is in good order, the oil will hold in the timining chest, if it's worn, the oil will leak back to the sump, but will soon pump back when you start up again.  Ron

Does this mean that there should be a bolt inserted into the hole in the bottom of the timing chest then? Or could I just remove it and let the oil flow back through that hole and don't worry about it? Because I cannot imagine the valve lifter sliding onto the spline and stil have enough room for a bolt to be there.

I'm glad the slit in the casing should be there any way. I was worrying that I again found some problem with a bike that should have been 100% complete and OK. But maybe the second oil drain plug, the one closest to the rear wheel, should have come out too. Which I neglected to do.

[Chris Hall]

32 minutes ago, PaulJager said:

Does this mean that there should be a bolt inserted into the hole in the bottom of the timing chest then? Or could I just remove it and let the oil flow back through that hole and don't worry about it? Because I cannot imagine the valve lifter sliding onto the spline and stil have enough room for a bolt to be there.

I'm glad the slit in the casing should be there any way. I was worrying that I again found some problem with a bike that should have been 100% complete and OK. But maybe the second oil drain plug, the one closest to the rear wheel, should have come out too. Which I neglected to do.

As I replied above, no bolt, it’s a drain hole, without it all the oil pumped in to the chest would fill it quicker than it can run down the lifters etc.

[PaulJager]

3 minutes ago, Chris Hall said:

As I replied above, no bolt, it’s a drain hole, without it all the oil pumped in to the chest would fill it quicker than it can run down the lifters etc.

OK, just to be sure. Didn't read it as how you intended it. I will make sure I remove it. Thanx.

[Chris Hall]

Attached is a photo of a WD/C crank case with oil return hole and WD/CO crank case with hole used for 5th stud and 2 new holes for oil return. 

[Chris Hall]

1 minute ago, PaulJager said:

OK, just to be sure. Didn't read it as how you intended it. I will make sure I remove it. Thanx.

No probs, reading back on both posts, neither of them read how I meant them to.

[PaulJager]

2 minutes ago, Chris Hall said:

Attached is a photo of a WD/C crank case with oil return hole and WD/CO crank case with hole used for 5th stud and 2 new holes for oil return. 

That is a clear difference. Beginning to think: could it be that I have a CO case half instead of a C case? Having threads in the hole would make sence in that case or not?

[Chris Hall]

They aren’t CO, the cases are larger at the rear. The Post War CO was assembled from left over WD/CO parts and the very last COs used C crank cases with CO cylinders. If yours were one of these, you’d have a Model CO serial number on the front of the case and if I remember correctly, new drain holes like the CO case. It could of course have been a non factory modification that someone has later ‘undone’ and not realised what the hole was originally for.

[PaulJager]

29 minutes ago, Chris Hall said:

They aren’t CO, the cases are larger at the rear. The Post War CO was assembled from left over WD/CO parts and the very last COs used C crank cases with CO cylinders. If yours were one of these, you’d have a Model CO serial number on the front of the case and if I remember correctly, new drain holes like the CO case. It could of course have been a non factory modification that someone has later ‘undone’ and not realised what the hole was originally for.

That is off course another explanation. And not too weird being it 80 years ago that it saw the light almost. I will just remove the bolt and use the hole again as it should.

[PaulJager]

And again, another question: Are there any tips or hints available to get the Amal 274 carburator in some sort of starting settings state? I tried to find information with Google, but all I got was adjustment tips and how it works, but not what the starting positions of the different screws and cables should be to first get it in a more or less working order for a first startup. Does anyone know this?

It is because I replaced the 276 carb that came with the bike with the 274 type that should be on it. I overhauld it at basic level and would like to try to fire up the bike maybe this weekend, but the carb then needs to be in a sort of basic settings state I assume, or not?

[Chris Hall]

Have you got a copy of this booklet?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264392878563?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338343596&toolid=10001&customid=eb%3Ag%3Avms%3Aeb%3Ap%3A264392878563%3BCjwKCAjwhdWkBhBZEiwA1ibLmGj3D2r19XEiAFeOUS2fOmCtOW7sfXcvJeN1HvsW3Nl6fqZV4aYwvBoC1PIQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAADmMgighZP2AgDls66y9Geq23LcY-&gclid=CjwKCAjwhdWkBhBZEiwA1ibLmGj3D2r19XEiAFeOUS2fOmCtOW7sfXcvJeN1HvsW3Nl6fqZV4aYwvBoC1PIQAvD_BwE

[Chris Hall]

This series is also handy.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115719615903?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=115719615903&targetid=1814673649102&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007079&poi=&campaignid=19089547614&mkgroupid=142438599285&rlsatarget=pla-1814673649102&abcId=9303859&merchantid=6995734&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Lr1cADOxPeV243zYz2lGaOTcP1&gclid=CjwKCAjwhdWkBhBZEiwA1ibLmPdDw0ORpn6G0MkZqHxyVaHEKgf3nVaQezgtf727OkFjNJopZli43RoCUIUQAvD_BwE

[Ron]

When I change the oil, I remove both plugs underneath and the one in the center of the the timing case.

As for the carb. I would strip it by also removing the jet block. Poke the tiny drilling out with fuse wire and thoroughly clean everything and use a new gasket kit. 

The only setting worth thinking about at this stage, is to screw the pilot jet screw all the way in and then back it out one and  half turns. Final tuning when the engine is warm. Ron

Edited June 24, 2023 by Ron

[PaulJager]

7 hours ago, Chris Hall said:

Have you got a copy of this booklet?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264392878563?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338343596&toolid=10001&customid=eb%3Ag%3Avms%3Aeb%3Ap%3A264392878563%3BCjwKCAjwhdWkBhBZEiwA1ibLmGj3D2r19XEiAFeOUS2fOmCtOW7sfXcvJeN1HvsW3Nl6fqZV4aYwvBoC1PIQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAADmMgighZP2AgDls66y9Geq23LcY-&gclid=CjwKCAjwhdWkBhBZEiwA1ibLmGj3D2r19XEiAFeOUS2fOmCtOW7sfXcvJeN1HvsW3Nl6fqZV4aYwvBoC1PIQAvD_BwE

I will have to check. There are multiple booklets now in my archive thanks to Jan and the forum, but I don't know for sure if this one is among those. 

[PaulJager]

1 hour ago, Ron said:

When I change the oil, I remove both plugs underneath and the one in the center of the the timing case.

As for the carb. I would strip it by also removing the jet block. Poke the tiny drilling out with fuse wire and thoroughly clean everything and use a new gasket kit. 

The only setting worth thinking about at this stage, is to screw the pilot jet screw all the way in and then back it out one and  half turns. Final tuning when the engine is warm. Ron

I did already take it apart completely and cleaned everything. Replaced gaskets and made sure everything moved like it should. I indeed found the pilot jet screw settings too, so I will start from the one and a half turn out position. We will see. 

[welbike]

Had to check, but mine has the hole too, you will find when you ride longer distances, the oil will seep out the valve lifter cable hole at the back, this was so bad, that I soldered the supply pipe half shut, seems to be OK now.

Also advisable is to replace the paper gasket for the valve cover, with one made from graphite material, as the paper burns away after a while.

Cheers,

Lex

Edited June 24, 2023 by welbike
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