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1942 Commer Q2 30cwt Restoration.


Rootes75

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20220319_092338

This is a manual I have for a civilian Q2 2/3 tonner. It is fitted with the same carb as mine the Solex 40 FAI. Mine is set up in the same way, no air cleaner but just the dust cap (item 39) that sits on the top of the carb held off about an inch by two securing screws.

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1 hour ago, Rootes75 said:

This is a manual I have for a civilian Q2 2/3 tonner. It is fitted with the same carb as mine the Solex 40 FAI. Mine is set up in the same way, no air cleaner but just the dust cap (item 39) that sits on the top of the carb held off about an inch by two securing screws.

I have to say I've not come across that set up on a military truck before so in that case I'd look for an induction leak first off,

A couple of other quick checks:  correct float height adjustment and how is the fuel delivered is it a gravity system or pump ?

if it's a pump then check the delivery pressure.

Interesting to know the outcome, good luck.

Pete 

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  • 4 weeks later...
20220414_165643

So, we have removed all the rotten floor of the body to then find the cross members in this condition...

They are very crumbly and you can see the wood is just falling apart. There are 3 out of the 6 that are saveable.

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15 hours ago, Rootes75 said:

20220414_165643

So, we have removed all the rotten floor of the body to then find the cross members in this condition...

They are very crumbly and you can see the wood is just falling apart. There are 3 out of the 6 that are saveable.

I feel your pain !! I’ve got this to deal with 🤨

20C1674B-AFB1-4D04-93FE-FD0BE83DE348.thumb.jpeg.f64682b6c03c84d14cf90a351ce33029.jpeg

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  • 3 months later...

So, after many months of hard work I have cut out all the rotted timber, fabricated repair sections in order to keep as much as the original as possible, and marked and drilled new side members and a full new rear cross member assembly.

I am quite pleased with the result.

52224347959_7e0e89d5b3_k.jpg

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Hi Pete,

I have used Sapele for all the replacement timber, its a lovely tight grain, you get nice cuts and its good to plane and shape.

It is expensive but its well worth it when you can get results like this. 

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It is so expensive. I have got round it in a way by taking my time and buying offcuts from ebay for the repair sections. It'd taken a while cause the right widths don't come up often.

It meant that the main timber, the outer rails and the rear complete cross member are the only sections I had to buy outright from the sawmill. With VAT and delivery these 4 pieces were about £250.

It's sort of out of our control isn't it? We can fabricate and paint and weld but you can't get by going half measures for actual raw material like a good hardwood.

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2 hours ago, Rootes75 said:

It is so expensive. I have got round it in a way by taking my time and buying offcuts from ebay for the repair sections. It'd taken a while cause the right widths don't come up often.

 

I would never have thought of looking there good call thanks

Pete

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I found that the most sensible way and cheapest when making small repair sections Pete.

I was buying offcuts of Sapele planed all square sizes sort of 45 x 45 x 5-700mm for about £10, I found 2 or three that size. And then I got 3 off 1.5m lengths of 95 x 45 PAS for £45. 

That was enough for me to be able to cut and shape all the repair sections. 

The only thing I found with ebay was that I couldn't get lengths over about 1.5m. A complete cross member on the Commer is 2m and the side member length is just over 3m.

Edited by Rootes75
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  • 3 weeks later...

So, I have finished restoring the windscreen frame after I couldn't find a replacement. Its taken a long time and has been really quite tricky, the following pics show its progress but not sort of skimming through it.

Firstly, when we removed the screen from the cab this is what we were faced with...

51233405666_8548db6f04_k.jpg

I cut out the rotten sections and then through fabricating the form and welding in and then skimming with filler I was able to replicate the insert shape required for the screen rubber T section. This shows the screen when the repairs are done and its masked up and primed.

52274395690_de53409ccb_k.jpg

Next up, this is the screen surround with 3 top coats applied, its the same corner as that in the first pic so you can compare the repair. I was please with it.

52273928338_cf5e321e77_k.jpg

Lastly, the screen in place, with the screen rubber fitted and the masking materials removed. It took an awful lot of work to actually fit the screen back in place. Due to the opening mechanism it has to be spaced in a certain way to get it level and to also make sure the seal comes into contact with the aperture. 

52273912121_972cd34d04_k.jpg

The one issue we have is that screen rubber is smaller than the original, its the largest depth we can get on the market for this type of T section but in some places it only just reached the aperture so obviously wont seal too well. I may even just seal the top corners and just accept that we don't use it as an opening screen. Overall though if you consider its original condition when stripped I am more than happy with the result.

Edited by Rootes75
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  • 3 months later...

So, with the body rebuilt and only awaiting a new floor I wanted to get the body on the truck and inside the shed out of the awful wet weather we've been having. The body has been double sheeted but still the water gets in and in places the timber needs a good drying.

It was then a case of rearranging the shed to accomadate the lorry with its body on and trying to do it on a dry morning when someone in our yard was about with one of the forklifts. 

I took a couple of pics whilst we were doing it, and for the record, literally half an hour after we finished the heavens opened up and it rained all day!!

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In the last photo we trial fitted the repaired rear wing and its a pretty good fit too.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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