Ron Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 If I've got my calculations right. The bottom rung on a war time stand is 3.8" from the ground So measuring what you have against that should give an idea of spring length base on the spring I posted. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 Thank you gents, really helpful indeed!! all these little nuggets are a massive help! I have been spending the last 72 hours cleaning/prepping and spraying some of the last components.......just the tank, wheels and seat frame to do! Although a very rewarding build, preparing each part by hand, down to each individual grease nipple, has taken me a fair amount longer than I anticipated. I still refuse to take any shortcuts....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdbikemad Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 I note your air cleaner is not quite the correct one Steve.....Terry or Drew at "Metal Magic" made some replica examples last year that come complete with the proper printed Villiers plate. They were copied from a new-old-stock original I had....They may still have some...01189 731631..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Yes the Coopers filter has the raised lettering but the correct Air-maze filter has the flat name plate. Arnaud in France makes the plate also and I sanded down my ML Coopers filter end enough to loose the lettering under some heavy coats of paint before fitting the Air-maze disc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 Cheers Gents! By chance was the Coopers type filter ever fitted to the Flying Flea? I only ask as I have the correct Air Maze filter fitted to my Flying Flea, maybe I could swap? I kick myself as I had a spare Air Maze filter and I let it go! 🙈 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 No it was the Air-Maze to both. Those are my Flea and ML above. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 Ok great, cheers Ron.......👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leggy90 Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 Looking good Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 20, 2020 Author Share Posted June 20, 2020 Thanks Leggy! After a few 6.00am starts and 10 hours days some real progress is being made......this has been a joy to restore, to date and I can wait to finish it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 I'll meet you on the race track Steve. Last one to reach 30mph buys the burgers!! Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 20, 2020 Author Share Posted June 20, 2020 Sounds good to me Ron! 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 21, 2020 Author Share Posted June 21, 2020 Many of the newly painted parts are now fitted, most of the engine is built, exhaust on, things are really starting To come together. You may well note the carb is still unpainted, the reason for this is I wanted to preserve and show the original OD paint, I may well paint it at the end as it’s a little shiny but let’s get the bike together first...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 Drive side of the engine now completed including new corks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 Levers now also fitted, thanks to Ron the decompression lever really looks the part! 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 24, 2020 Author Share Posted June 24, 2020 As I start to think about the last few jobs, I believe I have the correct Lodge ignition cap and resistor. I would dearly like to add an immobiliser to complete the set up, I know they are rare, one anyone be able to point me in the right direction? Thank you in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdbikemad Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 Steve, you are correct in saying they are rare.........I have used a couple of originals in the past but the best thing today is to make up a replica out of suitable black-rubber tubing glued together and slip it on over the HT lead........ It's a really good idea not to add any "obstruction" in the current of the HT lead as this can affect the quality of the spark delivered........best to use the hollowed-out resistor and just an immobiliser false/replica cover..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 25, 2020 Author Share Posted June 25, 2020 Thanks for the advise Steve! The replica really looks the part! May I ask the overall length of it, please? thank you in advance. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 (edited) I just remembered I'd taken a picture and made measurements for someone before. I didn't bother to take the female half of the brass connector out as it will need some gentle teasing. When I fit it one day, I'll do as I've done before and as Steve suggests, leave the connector out and slide it on the HT lead with a blob of silicon. (Same as I do with the suppressors) The diameters are approximate as the moldings are irregular. I'm expecting some batteries from Arnaud and I have asked him if he has one or any of his repro immobilizers left. Ron Edited June 25, 2020 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 28, 2020 Author Share Posted June 28, 2020 Thanks Ron. Thats Great! So I have finally prepped the last of my parts, excluding the wheels. The petrol tank was in pretty bad shape but it’s starting to come good......you will note the postwar James transfer still on the tank. intriguingly the first WD paint on this tank was Service brown then painted over with Olive Drab. This was the same as the wheel hubs, why might that be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 28, 2020 Author Share Posted June 28, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 Steve what paint and shade are you using? Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 29, 2020 Author Share Posted June 29, 2020 Hi Ron. Sorry for the late reply. I am using an industrial Zinfos 250 CT BS381C/298 The same colour as my recently restored G3L and I also used the Service Brown equivalent on my Triumph 3SW.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Thanks for that Steve. BS 298 is the standard "Olive Drab" It looks very nice indeed. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 29, 2020 Author Share Posted June 29, 2020 (edited) Thank you Ron! I have to say the colour and sheen is a great match to the original ML headlamp which I’m using on the build. Great paint just takes an age to harden properly! Edited June 29, 2020 by flyingfleasteve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted July 1, 2020 Author Share Posted July 1, 2020 The last few bits now painted I am just waiting for the paint to dry before fitting. The tank has proven difficult to get right but the end result is nice! Just a few missing bits left to source. Rear brake rod arm. Front lower brake rod (I have all of the cables and adjusters) Rear wheel sprocket I am unsure if these are still available or not? I may need to make them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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