Ferret bevel box

[MiketheBike]

Hi guys,

 

typical....10 days to go, and a bevel box decides to blow a seal!!!

 

Its the front right bevel box, and its decided to ditch the entire contents of oil into the footwell. I guess that means the seal for the prop-shaft has gone.

 

Can I just replace the seal or do I need to get the bevel box out and maybe replace the whole unit?

Can I take it out without all the hassle of dismantling everything on the outside of the hull?

 

Thanks

 

Mick

[Richard Farrant]

Mick,

You should be able to remove the drive flange, then the pinion sleeve which is held on by nuts, watch out for shims under the sleeve. The drive flange will probably need a puller to remove.

[andyroo]

Hi guys,

 

typical....10 days to go, and a bevel box decides to blow a seal!!!

 

Its the front right bevel box, and its decided to ditch the entire contents of oil into the footwell. I guess that means the seal for the prop-shaft has gone.

 

Can I just replace the seal or do I need to get the bevel box out and maybe replace the whole unit?

Can I take it out without all the hassle of dismantling everything on the outside of the hull?

 

Thanks

 

Mick

 

 

Mick,

 

To remove a bevel box (you can guess what I'm about to say....) you need to remove the wheel station.

However, if you look at my photo for a bevel box you will see it is basikly 3 main parts. The casing, a large bevel gear and a smaller one. You are lucky in that you can replace the seal without taking the bevel box to bits. It will be quite fiddly. If you do remove the small bevel gear bearing housing be aware that there are a number of shims to get the correct contact between the two bevels. These same shims will have to be repaced undamaged.

 

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[MiketheBike]

Andy/Kewelde,

 

can I replace the oil seal without taking the bevel box out, or do I still need to remove it from the vehicle?

It looks like I can just take the small bevel off and do the rest from there? Would that be easy(ish) on the front right?

Oh, and are the seals fairly easy to source?

 

Cheers

 

Mick

[Richard Farrant]

Mick,

 

Undo the castleated nut on the drive flange, pull the flange off, I think you will need a puller here. Then remove pinion assembly, as Andy said, be careful with the shims as they give correct depth of mesh. The seal should be able to be hooked out without further stripping. I feel certain that the seal is a standard commercial size, parts list not to hand at present, but failing that try Richard Banister. Make sure the seal path on the drive flange is not pitted or rusty, something must have damaged the seal lip for it to leak. Off course it might be wise to check the breather first, in case it is stuck and pressurising in the box blew the oil from the seal.

[MiketheBike]

ahem...time to own up....it may have been my fault.

It had a fairly good leak to start with (I think it had not been run very often over the past few years).

I topped up all the bevel boxes when I got it, and I have not been checking them. It suddenly dawned on me "hey, that one stopped leaking"....should've known better.....if anything stops leaking its for a reason....the bugger is empty!!!

[MiketheBike]

Andy/Richard,

 

well the oil seals are all of £3 each from Banisters, so I bought 4 and will most likley replace them all.

 

It took all of 1 hour to do the front right, and half of that time was taking out the prop shaft tunnel and drivers seat to get more access!!

I took the plate, held on by 5 bolts, off the bevel box and replaced it quite easily, did not have to disturb the shims as they did not move.

 

I haven't filled the bevel box up and tested yet, but it all seemed good.

 

Thanks

 

Mick