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CVR(t) Shocks


greenlandy

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Matt,

 

There are 3 types of link arms. The early Armstrong & Messier ones are as Mike described and slide on to the pin. There is also a later Messier type which bolts through the trailing arm. It sounds like you had the later ones fitted and need to refit the pins. Post a photo of what you've got and I'll see if I can figure it out. Which dampers are you fitting?

 

Chris

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We have the old style shocks to fit. I thought they JUST bolted straight through the hubs. :|. It's the bracket on the hub that's the problem :oops: one of them seems to have a smaller metal sleeve/bush. Sorry no photo's.........maybe able to do that tomorrow night.

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Matt,

 

Yep you've had the bolted messier ones fitted. I have one of the missing pins here if you can't find some, you can probably get some made up quite easily using it as a pattern.

 

Chris

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Do you mean one side of the vehicle is different to the other or just the susp. arm hole vs. link arm hole diameters?

 

 

ISTR (but stand to be corrected) that Panther (and therefore probably Tiger 1 and 2) torsion bars were leading on one side and trailing on the other so that the torsion bars on either side could extend across the full width of the vehicle without obstructing those on the other side or having the roadwheels differently-distanced down the side of the vehicle.

 

In fact I am pretty sure the same thing applied to the Mark 3 and Mark 4 suspension too.

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Alien,

 

The torsion bars on CVRT are full width. The wheel stations on one side of the vehicle are in slightly different positions than the other side. You only really notice it when you get underneath though.

 

Chris

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Managed to get some bushes turned out :-D but we couldn't get the barsteward Sabre to charge :| so she stayed at home. We raised loads of cash for the Air Ambulance Appeal in the Sultan taking people on an off-road course this weekend though :-).

 

BIG BUT THOUGH :oops: Sultan rear idler sheared THREE bolts on the way home, looks like we could have lost the track :schocked: on a major A road!!!!

Will post piccies soon.

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We were warned about this potential issue when we got some new track for our Spartan, so we completely stripped, inspected and lubricated the rear idler arm assemly on both sides as advised. If the rear idler arm does not rotate freely on its pivot, then the bolts (or shaft as we were advised) can shear. Sounds like you were vey lucky not to have had a major incident. Are your tracks over tensioned? I believe the figure is 135mm from the centre wheel to the track.

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Not over tensioned we use the proper MOD guage.

 

The proper MOD guage?

 

That is a clenched fist between the top of the centre roadwheel and the track, right?

 

It was in my day. You are telling me they had to issue a guage???

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi,

 

I may be completely wrong, but your picture of the rear idler looks like a roadwheel. If it is, and not the correct rear idler assy, could the larger diameter have caused the bolts to shear?

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David,

 

The early style rear idlers were basically smaller roadwheels. They were changed to cast spoked ones, with the latest version being the 2 piece spoked idler. I think the rubber must have worn out quite quickly on the rubber ones!

 

Chris

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Hi Chris,

 

Interesting, I've never seen those before, you learn something new every day!

 

Anyone know when they stopped using them and switched to the all metal idler wheel?

 

After reading this thread, just spent the afternoon greasing and checking over the idlers on my sultan. I have a 8 mile drive to a village fete next Saturday and don't want the same thing happening!

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