CaptainClassic Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 The cylinderhead gasket on my 42 WC52 is blowing next to the oil filter. Got the new gasket, removed all the bolts but cannot lift the head off. Tried one of those car type engine hoists (the one where you pull the cord) but still wont come off. have now soaked the studs with plus gas. Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the damm thing! :? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 Are you SURE that you have removed all the head bolts? I am not familiar with that particular type of engine, but i have worked on many where head bolts have virtually been hidden away. A sideways blow with a soft faced hammer (hide or plastic) on a suitable place on the head may help shift it, as sometimes the head "sticks" and can e virtually unshiftale. We once lifted the front axle of an old bus of the ground with a forklift truck trying to get the head off. We left it suspended from the fork lift all night, then a sharp blow with a soft hammer shifted it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chappers Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 Undo the bolts and turn the engine over if it's got good compression then that should help free it make sure you leave the plugs in ,I've rebuilt a Dodge and yes they can be tight,soaking and tapping with a soft face hammer is as already mentioned a good idea to help good luck regards Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainClassic Posted June 4, 2007 Author Share Posted June 4, 2007 Hi Grasshopper and Steve Have removed all the nuts which hold head down this leaves the studs showing. have tapped with soft hammer. I suspect the problem could be the studs rusting to the head. I have now soaked the studs with plus gas and even tried to turn the engine over but to no avail. it will be sat before I have another go but will soak the studs during the week. Any other ideas will be welcome. For the record the engine is a first time starter and runs well (up till now) George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YK55 Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 Can you get the studs out? If there is enough thread showing, use two nuts locked together to unscrew the stud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G506 Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 Hi George, Andy Lees post is good advice, try that first. If it doesnt work, prepare to get medievel with it :evil: I had this exact problem about two months ago on my best mate's WC52 project. The fault was as you described, all nuts removed, but the head would'nt budge. After some very close examination, it transpired that the head had seized solid to a stud (as you mention), right up close to the cab bulkhead, meaning space was extremely tight, and the grip on the stud was such that the stud wouldnt unscrew. This is what I did - - Absolutely drown the affected area with WD40 or similar good quality releasing agent, preferably overnight. When you are satisfied it has soaked in enough, give it even more WD40 !!! - Put the kettle, have a brew, gather as much energy and patience as you can, you're going to need it .............. - GENTLY insert small fox wedges (preferably aluminium, brass, or another soft metal) all around the head, the more the better to help prevent twisting the head. Dont forget, the gap you are inserting these wedges into is a gasket mating surface - Threaten the engine with violence if it doesnt do as its told, this doesn't usually work, but what the hell, you'll feel better - Evenly, gradually and carefully knock the wedges further in. This will take time, care and patience, maybe a couple of hours, dont rush this operation, as you could warp the head. Dont allow the gap to be larger at one end to the other, again warping will result. - As Chappers mentions, tapping with a large soft face hammer (or 'dead blow hammer', a hammer half filled with lead shot, bl##dy marvellous tool) throughout the operation will help, but do this both sides of the head, don't concentrate in only one area. But you do need to know, what I've described here is not without risk, you stand a fair chance of warping the head even if you proceed with caution. Before I started, I checked availability of cylinder heads, just in case, and they dont seem particularly rare/expensive, but double check in your area. Of course, one way to look at it is that the head has to come of sooner or later, with or without damage. And most important of all, obviously wear goggles, gloves, etc, etc........... There are other ways to do get a troublesome head off a sidevalve engine , but they do tend to be very involved, and/or brutal, I would rather not share them at this stage, squeamish people could be reading :whistle: Once the nasty troublesome head is off, and you've finished being extremely proud of yourself, get yourself off to an engineering company, ask them to check the removal process didnt warp the head. Next (assuming its not warped), you need to make sure it ain't gonna happen again. Thoroughly examine the gasket face of the cylinder block for damage. Check no debris has fallen into any of the cylinders. Clean all head bolt drillings thoroughly, clean the offending head stud (or replace with new), and coat the studs with the thinnest smearing of copper grease, do not go mad with this as it will get thin as the engine reaches operating temperature and run into other areas, cylinders, etc, and thats bad, very bad :-( Finally, on your way to the pub, glare menacingly at the Dodge for causing you so much trouble Good luck with it G506 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainClassic Posted June 4, 2007 Author Share Posted June 4, 2007 Thanks Andy & G506 will try these ideas out on sat i hope that the plus gas helps to loosen the thing. 3 of the studs are already out only 18 to go. I think i will start on the most suspect looking ones The dodge has aquired a new name now ie:- F****** Thing will let you know the outcome! regards everyone George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YK55 Posted June 11, 2007 Share Posted June 11, 2007 Any updates George ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted June 11, 2007 Share Posted June 11, 2007 Just a bit of extra advice to add to G506, with reference to the wedges great idea, if you can get a bit of a gap using this method then try taking all wedges out and tap head back down to block this might help work the rusty bits out and enable more free movment try repeating this several times using the wedges to make gap and then remove and so on, as what do you have to loose if it does not work, more drastic action, so be gentle and continuous persuasion will work in the end.... Good luck and may the head be with you................. R Cubed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainClassic Posted June 11, 2007 Author Share Posted June 11, 2007 Hi you Guys Made an attempt to shift it in sat no luck though tried some wedges but couldnt get them to push in between the block and head. I am a bit reluctent at the moment to try and remove studs by Andy's idea in case one or more studs snap leaving a bigger problem. gonna try again on Friday. maybe a hydralic hoist might help lift it someone suggested putting plug leads back and firing it up any views on this. will update whatever happens regards george Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted June 11, 2007 Share Posted June 11, 2007 If you are going to go down this road, re-fit the spark plugs, and with the nuts on (just above the surface of the head) spin the engine on the starter. The compresson may force the head up against the nuts. I wouldn't recommend trying to fire up the engine. It could get very messy if you suddenly had hot gasses shooting out from between the head and block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YK55 Posted June 11, 2007 Share Posted June 11, 2007 someone suggested putting plug leads back and firing it up any views on this. If it's only stuck in one place (or only one place is free) you could easily crack or warp the head, you need to move it as a whole. I think you need to remove the studs, just go carefully ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G506 Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 George, any luck then? Did the head come off? G506 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markheliops Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 I know people rave about WD40 and alike but I swear by using brake fluid as a nut releaser. Obviously not near any paintwork and you have to give the components a good washing down afterwards but brake fluid seems to move things the commercial stuff can't. Hope this helps. Markheliops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 OR a flame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainClassic Posted September 30, 2007 Author Share Posted September 30, 2007 Hi Guys Sorry its been a long, long while since Ive been back on here The Dodge is now up and running again on the road, a week before the Chatham Show 30/09. So here goes:- tried most things that folks advised but no luck so tried to get it done at an engine builders but they messed me about for weeks trying to book it in. So a friends son in law who repairs trucks took it on and quite simply he used a screwdriver and hammer and the head was off. Easy as that. Glad I wasn't there to see it though! Might have been a brown pants moment. Must admit I could have done that but if you don't do it right you don't know the damage you could cause so I would go carefully, maybe a wide cold chisel if your going to do that sort of thing. The head was warped though, so we had it skimmed, new studs (the old ones came out without too much trouble) new gasket, oil etc and back together, bit of a tune up and it is running fine. In fact it seems to pull better going up hills now. Probably will have to check the head torque soon Parts from Dallas!. so thats it Thanks to you all who offered help and advise. a combination of several of these ideas may have helped loosen the head before the screwdriver treatment. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainClassic Posted September 30, 2007 Author Share Posted September 30, 2007 nearly forgot a very big thanks to Monique of Battle for Europe Group who towed me from Brentwood to the repairers in Ockendon in her Landrover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted September 30, 2007 Share Posted September 30, 2007 One thing worth considering, fit one of frank jolleys electronis distributors, turns the old Birds into race horses. :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve ryan Posted September 30, 2007 Share Posted September 30, 2007 Nice one George got it sorted at last :-) :dancinggirls: see you on the road steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainClassic Posted September 30, 2007 Author Share Posted September 30, 2007 cheers Steve see you at the next show where ever that is George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G506 Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 Thats good news mate, glad you won! Cheers G506 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainClassic Posted October 1, 2007 Author Share Posted October 1, 2007 thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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