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[mark4974]

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Edited May 25, 2023 by mark4974

[Degsy]

If it was running OK before you adjusted the timing it looks as if that might be where the problem is unless it's something simple such as crossed plug leads.

No doubt Richard Farrant will be along soon, he's the fount of all knowledge on all things QL (and just about everything else).

Edited May 3, 2015 by Degsy

[Richard Farrant]

Thanks Degsy!

 

Hi Mark,

I would check the rotor arm for shorting first, although I see you say there is a spark, I am wondering if that spark disappears once the plug is in the cylinder under pressure. It is a simple test, that the HT lead from coil out of the dist cap and remove cap, switch on ignition and hold the lead over the brass contact on the arm, and turn engine, if the spark jumps from the lead to the rotor arm then it is shorting out through the shaft. Eliminate this first then we can move on.

The higher voltage of the electronic ignition will find flaws in rotor arm or cap.

 

Richard

[mark4974]

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Edited May 25, 2023 by mark4974

[mike30841]

Hi Mark,

 

I think you have two possibilities here:

 

1) Are you certain the engine was on no1 top dead centre when you set the ignition timing? If it wasn't, it will be trying to fire at the top of the exhaust stroke.

2) Assuming that the timing is correct, you have almost certainly got the HT leads in the wrong order - set the engine back to no1 tdc and note where the rotor arm is pointing - that is where no1 lead goes. The rest follow anti-clockwise as per the firing order shown in the book.

 

If this doesn't help, check for a spark at the plugs, and that fuel is getting through to the carb.#

 

Hope this helps, and give me a call if you need to borrow my compression tester

 

Mike.

[mark4974]

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Edited May 25, 2023 by mark4974

[Tony B]

Out of intrest, what have you set the timing to? The electronic ignition and modern fuel can affect the engine. Cheap enough to replace dizzy cap and rotor arm,

[mark4974]

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Edited May 25, 2023 by mark4974

[mike30841]

Am good thanks Mark,

 

I seem to remember the QL timing being a sod to do - with the timing light I was sat underneath with the engine running, as this was the only way to see the timing mark. This is not much help if you can't get it running. All I can suggest is have another go at the static timing making sure you have the engine on no1 tdc. Incidentally, is it trying to fire at all when you try to start it? Does it pop through the carb or exhaust? If it does, then the timing is almost certainly 180 degrees out.

 

The thumb wheel you refer to is the micrometer adjuster, I believe one full turn equates to 1 degree of adjustment, so even if you turn it all the way, it is not enough to stop the engine running. This adjuster is for fine tuning only, the main setting is done by slackening the clamp bolt and turning the distributor body - it is surprising how far it can be turned with the engine running!

 

Keep us posted on how you get on, and best of luck!!

 

Regards, Mike.

[Richard Farrant]

Hi Mark,

I have gone back to the start of the thread and note that you had lack of power originally. Then later on you mention checking the compressions and getting readings of around 45 psi ........ now that is low, I would expect figures double that at least, and on a cold engine.

Also, just to confirm, you have had the engine running since fitting the electronic ignition?

 

Richard

[mark4974]

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Edited May 25, 2023 by mark4974

[Tony B]

Excellent news!